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View Full Version : Lost Guatemalan lookin for help!!! Looping help!



mquevedof
11-07-2015, 12:14 AM
Hi guys,

Earlier this year the goon squad help arrive to my current set up. Blade BTY Petr Korbel 5 PLY - FH Evo EL-P Max, BH EVO FX-P MAX. Overall
I´m very happy with Evo rubbers!!! I´m also very happy with the all wood blade (coming from an ALC blade) :cool:.

I´m asking for your guidance, as lately I have identified that, due to the softness of my FH rubber, in most shots the ball is sinking all the way to the wood, and when the ball makes contact with the wood it abruptly gets thrown out, and is leaving the blade in the middle of my swing, conveying an ackward/unifinished feeling. My first question to the forum is. Is this caused by my technique (or lack of it), or simply I did a poor election of my forehand rubber.

Quick note... I´m 1.85 mt (6'3") tall, thus my arms are long, lots of leverage on my FH.

In advance thanks for your thoughts!!!

UpSideDownCarl
11-07-2015, 02:33 AM
Technique. At least that is what it sounds like to me. It sounds like you need to learn to brush the ball or at least to brush with varying degrees of depth. If you are hitting into the wood, you are probably not entirely brushing the ball.

A player with good technique and lot more torc and power than any of us can still brush and not have the ball hit the wood with the softest of rubbers. When I tried FX-P, I was able to brush with it without much trouble. You should be able to brush with varying degrees of depth. It just takes practice.

Der_Echte
11-07-2015, 03:40 AM
I can bring the smack when I choose on FH, Carl has seen it and the time he saw me using the Beast Mod Allround Evolution, I had FX-P on FH and could hit and power loop all day, as well as spin the logo paint off the ball.

If I use that puppy on BH, I can lay the smack down even more. FX-P is a great rubber, but I get it, if you have those kind of extension arm and can lay the smack down like me, a softer rubber doesn't cut it.

Quick answer is to try MX-P, but it doesn't work great on flexy ALL+ to OFF- blades as well as it does on the stiffer OFF- to OFF blades or the composite blades.

I just slapped on a sheet of MX-P on my FH for the Kim Jung Hoon, a lower range of OFF all wood blade. I can spin or hit no problem on that, and also on Carl's V+ blade, that also has MX-P on it.

Maybe Aurus is your less expensive answer as well. Maybe you are a candidate for Calibra LT if your impact is that strong, but you will likely favor the versatility of MX-P.

mquevedof
11-07-2015, 04:58 PM
Technique. At least that is what it sounds like to me. It sounds like you need to learn to brush the ball or at least to brush with varying degrees of depth. If you are hitting into the wood, you are probably not entirely brushing the ball.

A player with good technique and lot more torc and power than any of us can still brush and not have the ball hit the wood with the softest of rubbers. When I tried FX-P, I was able to brush with it without much trouble. You should be able to brush with varying degrees of depth. It just takes practice.

Thanks Carl for you view on this. Today I put your advice to practice. Two observations:

1) It seems that I need to allow the ball to get closer to my body, and be at the right place (footwork), to brush more the ball. There is a video
I´ve seen somewhere that talks about the "power poquet"... Sorry can´t remember the author to give due credit. Am I on the right track here...?

2) I need to be lower in order to brush more, being as tall as I am this part is a challenge... how important is this second element?

Thanks guys for commenting :D

mquevedof
11-07-2015, 05:04 PM
I can bring the smack when I choose on FH, Carl has seen it and the time he saw me using the Beast Mod Allround Evolution, I had FX-P on FH and could hit and power loop all day, as well as spin the logo paint off the ball.

If I use that puppy on BH, I can lay the smack down even more. FX-P is a great rubber, but I get it, if you have those kind of extension arm and can lay the smack down like me, a softer rubber doesn't cut it.

Quick answer is to try MX-P, but it doesn't work great on flexy ALL+ to OFF- blades as well as it does on the stiffer OFF- to OFF blades or the composite blades.

I just slapped on a sheet of MX-P on my FH for the Kim Jung Hoon, a lower range of OFF all wood blade. I can spin or hit no problem on that, and also on Carl's V+ blade, that also has MX-P on it.

Maybe Aurus is your less expensive answer as well. Maybe you are a candidate for Calibra LT if your impact is that strong, but you will likely favor the versatility of MX-P.

Thanks Mr. Der for taking the time to provide advise!!! My current liking for the Evo series, favors the balance towards the MX-P. However I´m trying to keep my EJ virus under control... at least for as long as I can resist :rolleyes:

I already included the MX-P in my christmas list... but before doind that I wanted to address the technical side of things.

NextLevel
11-07-2015, 05:09 PM
Thanks Carl for you view on this. Today I put your advice to practice. Two observations:

1) It seems that I need to allow the ball to get closer to my body, and be at the right place (footwork), to brush more the ball. There is a video
I´ve seen somewhere that talks about the "power poquet"... Sorry can´t remember the author to give due credit. Am I on the right track here...?

2) I need to be lower in order to brush more, being as tall as I am this part is a challenge... how important is this second element?

Thanks guys for commenting :D

Post video and stuff is easy to fix. If you can't or don't want to, that is fine, but it is hard to fix someone's technique without look at them. I would be a millionaire if I could. Without that, all I can say is to look at all the looping/forehand topspin videos on pingskills youtube channel or ittf website etc.

UpSideDownCarl
11-08-2015, 03:42 AM
I would say NextLevel has a real good point.

But I would also say, when you really know how to make brush contact well, you can do it when you are too close to the ball. You can do it when you are too far from the ball. All it has to do with is how you have the topsheet contact the ball as you pull past the ball. If you are hitting into the ball that is different than having the topsheet pull past the ball while the ball sinks into the topsheet and sponge only a small amount.


Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia