How to glue and what glue is the best?

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Hi all,
Currently, i have used my rubber for about 5 months now and i feel like there is a need to change to a new set. At the moment, i am using paddle palace ez glue. When using it, i often put 1 layer on the blade, and 1 on the rubber, and when both are dry, they stick together. This works good but after i while, i see some of the rubber unsticking from the blade when i am playing sometimes as if i did not put enough glue. I was wondering, if i put two layers of glue on the rubber, will this stop this? Also, if i do use two layers, how do i put two layers? Do i put 1 layer, let it dry, then put the second one? Also, what is a really strong glue but still easy to remove glue to use?
 
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I usually do 2 layers of glue on the rubber, (especially if its a new sheet) and 1 layer on the blade. You want 2 layers on the rubber as the sponge can absorb much of the glue. So 2 layers of glue to counter the sponge absorption. TO do multiple layers of glue, just apply one layer and wait for it to dry (usually 10 min). Once it becomes transparent, you are free to apply the next layer. After gluing, I apply pressure to the blade by using some heavy books and leave it overnigt (at least an hour if you're lazy). As for what glue to use, I cant say. Still finding a good brand that removes easily (both from blade and sponge) whilst still being water based or VOC free
 
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Well I can recommend the Revolution3 glue which is a wbg containing latex.
A few months ago I actually had the same issue with my T05.
(EDIT: only the T05, the H3N sticks firmly from day one.)
With only one layer on the sponge and one on the blade it started coming off on the corners and started lookin' as if i've boosted it heavily which I didn't even think about. (I personally find the T05 doesn't need to be boosted). So i put another layer on the sponge, but after a while it had the same result.
So i've peeled off the whole glue (which came off in almost one piece) and put 1 layer on the blade and three on the sponge and now it sticks excellent and my problem's evaporated.
;)
There are a few glues that seem to contain the same components as Revolution3. There is also the Tibhar Clue, the Donic Blue Contact, the Nittaku Finezip, the Butterfly Freechack II and also a few chinese brands.
Positive side effect: adding more layers will speed (and spin) up your rubbers slightly but significantly.
Most of the mentioned glues can be purchased at TT11, but also many other stores seem to have either one of them on stock.
Hope this helps.
Don't hesitate for further questions.
;)
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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Well, for the glues that are like silicon, Suga D and P1ngP0ng3r have given the important information. Those kinds of glues hold well and make it easy to remove the glue.

However, I like Donic Vario Clean. It is different from the glues mentioned it is more like a water based rubber cement. It is a pain in the butt if you want to remove the glue. But I never really do that. And I am kind of happy to have lots of glue, 5, 6, 8 layers is okay with me. The reason I like Vario Clean is, if you glue rubbers on, you can pull the rubbers off and then slap them right back on without needing to add more glue because the glue, when it is dry stays sticky. Whereas those glues that are more like silicon, once the rubber starts coming off, you have to add more glue to the sponge and the rubber. With Vario Clean, if you ding your blade, you can take the rubber off, tech the damage and just slap the rubber back on and press or leave it under some heavy books for an hour or so and the rubber is good to go.

But 2-3 layers of glue on a new sponge is good regardless of what kind of glue. As Suga D said, extra layers of glue actually give your sponge more responsiveness (extra speed and spin--not much, but some).


Sent from Deep Space by Abacus
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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One piece of info of why I like more layers and not just 2 or 3. Around 2009, after the speed glue ban, I read somewhere that CNT players were putting 12-16 layers on to add more rebound to the sponge as part of how they were compensating for the lack of speed glue. They were using a specific kind of Haifu glue that was designed for it which I don't think is legal anymore. But I tried it with regular glue and did notice, with the more rubber like glues, it definitely helps the rubber play a little better. Not sure how much it helps with glues that are more like silicon. But it might help with them as well.

The obvious downside is, it adds a small amount more weight. And if that matters to you, it is good to know. But if you are like me and your racket having a little extra weight doesn't really matter to you, then more is sometimes better.


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ONLY REGARD TO VOC-FREE GLUES!

The best glue for ESN, japanese rubbers is Nittaku Finezip. The best glue for Chinese rubbers, such as DHS H3, is DHS No. 15.

As far as I know, one layer on the blade will be enough.
For ESN and japanese rubbers, 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost), 2 layers of glue, 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost).
For Chinese rubbers, such as DHS H3, 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost), 3-5 layers of glue (CNT players even glue more layers), 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost).

Sth a bit away from the topic. For ESN and japanese rubbers, boosters such falco and some european products are good. For chinese rubbers, Haifu oil from CNT is the best, then market version of Haifu Seamoon.
 
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Yes, more layers of glue will help with the bounce. That's why ITTF has regulations of the thickness of the finished glued rubber.

One piece of info of why I like more layers and not just 2 or 3. Around 2009, after the speed glue ban, I read somewhere that CNT players were putting 12-16 layers on to add more rebound to the sponge as part of how they were compensating for the lack of speed glue. They were using a specific kind of Haifu glue that was designed for it which I don't think is legal anymore. But I tried it with regular glue and did notice, with the more rubber like glues, it definitely helps the rubber play a little better. Not sure how much it helps with glues that are more like silicon. But it might help with them as well.

The obvious downside is, it adds a small amount more weight. And if that matters to you, it is good to know. But if you are like me and your racket having a little extra weight doesn't really matter to you, then more is sometimes better.


Sent from Deep Space by Abacus
 
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Glad that you like it. May I know where you are in UK? I'm in London.

I am from Wolverhampton. Question: For Chinese rubbers, such as DHS H3, 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost), 3-5 layers of glue (CNT players even glue more layers), 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost).

How comes 1 layer of boost and 3-5 layers of glue? The glue won't effect rubber much? The 1 layer of booster does the trick? And then apply 1 or 2 layer of glue?
 
The booster/oil will be absorb by the sponge and glue, which would not create much thickness.
More layers of glue help and increase the tension & bounce, yet not too many layers (CNT players will do 5~10 layers, depending on the thickness of each layer).

I am from Wolverhampton. Question: For Chinese rubbers, such as DHS H3, 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost), 3-5 layers of glue (CNT players even glue more layers), 1 layer of booster (if you want to boost).

How comes 1 layer of boost and 3-5 layers of glue? The glue won't effect rubber much? The 1 layer of booster does the trick? And then apply 1 or 2 layer of glue?
 
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[h=3][/h]Ive just started gluing and tibhar clean fix sticks solid.I have heard a few reports that this damages the blade when removing rubbers.I recently removed a rubber that had been glued using this and only had a few minor blade splinters from the edge.
 
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