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View Full Version : Baby oil boosting for Chinese rubbers - an extremely cheap way to add a little zip.



fais
07-24-2017, 05:21 PM
I enjoy boosting my Chinese rubbers with baby oil because it livens them up just enough for me. Not as dramatic an effect as actual glue/boosters, but the benefits are permanent and it actually extend the longevity of Chinese rubbers drastically (as apposed shortening it). And it's dirt cheap (a dollar s bottle vs 30+ dollars, I mean why wouldn't you?)

Have you ever ordered a Chinese rubber, taken it out of the wrapping and lay it down, only to notice the rubber begins to curl... the wrong way? Who/what killed the sponge?i mean look at it... this is absolutely terrible:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/7d328dcf522a364a7e510a726ac6e571.jpg

Well, after only one generous coat of baby oil (approx a tablespoon) and a day of drying, this one here has already perked up

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/f27238f5e34f4c0354e077d94a800567.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/43d5a7d7529136c3e90402271d80b6d9.jpg

Since baby oil is more permanent, you don't need more than one here for Yinhe rubbers, or the dome will be to strong to overcome with WBG. Yinhe rubbers already have a some amount of zip to begin with. Look how much this rubber grew after only one layer:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/61e37f08362567e664c50d2c19deb75b.jpg

That is effing lit. I did the same for the H3N as well. The top sheet of the H3N is stretchy enough to were you can do more than coat. This is just one coat:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/56bdcea4bc1c5ced94a9af73d188c868.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/d60dec675a59c9a97080f4bd716d3c29.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/283cacff2b653770a079090c7f14c7c5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/990a42b8905ec4d9e3cd0f91a42e578f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/6a030755530a3108725e044686fc59aa.jpg

Just a little bit of stretching for this one. Will try it sometime this week to see if it needs another layer! The process is straight forward. Very similar to actual boosters. It does require a delicate touch as it is easy to overboost. I strongly recommend baby oil treatment for Chinese rubbers. At the very least, you've stretched the top sheet giving it an ESN like treatment. You will find that these rubbers will not feel overtly dead at slow speed, of balanced shots will become a tad bit easier to recover lift, and you might feel more feedback in longer/faster rallies... just enough to make you want to keep going strong as you should with these types of rubbers (but not to where they feel like tenergys... sorry folks, not how it works).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ilia Minkin
07-24-2017, 05:28 PM
Imagine the headlines: International Table Tennis Federation announces a decisive ban on baby oil!

Airoc
07-25-2017, 07:15 AM
Imagine the headlines: International Table Tennis Federation announces a decisive ban on baby oil!

Actually, the logic is somehow different. And baby oil was used in pro player circles right after the speed glue ban.

Officials: "Players, you cannot use speed glue anymore. It´s a risk to your health."

Players: "Ok. That´s fine. We might just as well use booster. Oh, and baby oil works a treat."

Industry: "This f***s up our plan to sell these speed glue effect rubbers that we have been developing. Officials, do something."

Officials: "Err, yeah, well ... Hmmm ... Players, you cannot do anything to your rubbers, you must use them as they come."

Players: "Because booster is a risk to our health, too, like baby oil?"

Officials: "No, because we say so."

anubhav1984
07-25-2017, 07:52 AM
I enjoy boosting my Chinese rubbers with baby oil because it livens them up just enough for me. Not as dramatic an effect as actual glue/boosters, but the benefits are permanent and it actually extend the longevity of Chinese rubbers drastically (as apposed shortening it). And it's dirt cheap (a dollar s bottle vs 30+ dollars, I mean why wouldn't you?)

Have you ever ordered a Chinese rubber, taken it out of the wrapping and lay it down, only to notice the rubber begins to curl... the wrong way? Who/what killed the sponge?i mean look at it... this is absolutely terrible:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F7d328dcf522a364a7e510a726ac6e571.jpg

Well, after only one generous coat of baby oil (approx a tablespoon) and a day of drying, this one here has already perked up

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2Ff27238f5e34f4c0354e077d94a800567.jpg

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F43d5a7d7529136c3e90402271d80b6d9.jpg

Since baby oil is more permanent, you don't need more than one here for Yinhe rubbers, or the dome will be to strong to overcome with WBG. Yinhe rubbers already have a some amount of zip to begin with. Look how much this rubber grew after only one layer:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F61e37f08362567e664c50d2c19deb75b.jpg

That is effing lit. I did the same for the H3N as well. The top sheet of the H3N is stretchy enough to were you can do more than coat. This is just one coat:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F56bdcea4bc1c5ced94a9af73d188c868.jpg

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2Fd60dec675a59c9a97080f4bd716d3c29.jpg

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F283cacff2b653770a079090c7f14c7c5.jpg

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F990a42b8905ec4d9e3cd0f91a42e578f.jpg

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20170724%2F6a030755530a3108725e044686fc59aa.jpg

Just a little bit of stretching for this one. Will try it sometime this week to see if it needs another layer! The process is straight forward. Very similar to actual boosters. It does require a delicate touch as it is easy to overboost. I strongly recommend baby oil treatment for Chinese rubbers. At the very least, you've stretched the top sheet giving it an ESN like treatment. You will find that these rubbers will not feel overtly dead at slow speed, of balanced shots will become a tad bit easier to recover lift, and you might feel more feedback in longer/faster rallies... just enough to make you want to keep going strong as you should with these types of rubbers (but not to where they feel like tenergys... sorry folks, not how it works).


Sent from my using Tapatalk

On a side note - given that you have a Yinhe v14, can you please share your experience of how it plays as compared to some other brand blades, if you have them as well. ;)

Baal
07-25-2017, 08:15 AM
Imagine the headlines: International Table Tennis Federation announces a decisive ban on baby oil!

In order to protect players' health!

Airoc
07-25-2017, 08:24 AM
In order to protect players' health!

Exactly. Just like I said above, the speed glue ban might have been justified, but the ban of boosters is a farce.

Baal
07-25-2017, 06:56 PM
I don't miss speed glue for various reasons*, but to be historically accurate I should mention that it was a lot bigger problem in the 1980s and early 90s because the solvents were really nasty, including various halogenated hydrocarbons. However, the stuff TT manufacturers were selling by around 2001 did not contain really bad organic solvents from a toxicological perspective, based on some of the patents that were from that time.

* I liked how they made my racket play and they could massively improve performance of inexpensive rubbers -- most of the time -- but there was always a day when for some you had a bad glue job and nothing felt right. These days it is more fun to just go to the club and start playing without having to glue first, plus gluing was messy and smelly.

Airoc
07-25-2017, 09:24 PM
I don't miss speed glue for various reasons*, but to be historically accurate I should mention that it was a lot bigger problem in the 1980s and early 90s because the solvents were really nasty, including various halogenated hydrocarbons. However, the stuff TT manufacturers were selling by around 2001 did not contain really bad organic solvents from a toxicological perspective, based on some of the patents that were from that time.

* I liked how they made my racket play and they could massively improve performance of inexpensive rubbers -- most of the time -- but there was always a day when for some you had a bad glue job and nothing felt right. These days it is more fun to just go to the club and start playing without having to glue first, plus gluing was messy and smelly.

I agree.

zaw thwe
07-26-2017, 03:31 PM
I enjoy boosting my Chinese rubbers with baby oil because it livens them up just enough for me. Not as dramatic an effect as actual glue/boosters, but the benefits are permanent and it actually extend the longevity of Chinese rubbers drastically (as apposed shortening it). And it's dirt cheap (a dollar s bottle vs 30+ dollars, I mean why wouldn't you?)

Have you ever ordered a Chinese rubber, taken it out of the wrapping and lay it down, only to notice the rubber begins to curl... the wrong way? Who/what killed the sponge?i mean look at it... this is absolutely terrible:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/7d328dcf522a364a7e510a726ac6e571.jpg

Well, after only one generous coat of baby oil (approx a tablespoon) and a day of drying, this one here has already perked up

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/f27238f5e34f4c0354e077d94a800567.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/43d5a7d7529136c3e90402271d80b6d9.jpg

Since baby oil is more permanent, you don't need more than one here for Yinhe rubbers, or the dome will be to strong to overcome with WBG. Yinhe rubbers already have a some amount of zip to begin with. Look how much this rubber grew after only one layer:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/61e37f08362567e664c50d2c19deb75b.jpg

That is effing lit. I did the same for the H3N as well. The top sheet of the H3N is stretchy enough to were you can do more than coat. This is just one coat:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/56bdcea4bc1c5ced94a9af73d188c868.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/d60dec675a59c9a97080f4bd716d3c29.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/283cacff2b653770a079090c7f14c7c5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/990a42b8905ec4d9e3cd0f91a42e578f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/6a030755530a3108725e044686fc59aa.jpg

Just a little bit of stretching for this one. Will try it sometime this week to see if it needs another layer! The process is straight forward. Very similar to actual boosters. It does require a delicate touch as it is easy to overboost. I strongly recommend baby oil treatment for Chinese rubbers. At the very least, you've stretched the top sheet giving it an ESN like treatment. You will find that these rubbers will not feel overtly dead at slow speed, of balanced shots will become a tad bit easier to recover lift, and you might feel more feedback in longer/faster rallies... just enough to make you want to keep going strong as you should with these types of rubbers (but not to where they feel like tenergys... sorry folks, not how it works).


Sent fro using Tapatalk

Apply baby oil to sponge or topsheet? It can increase speed and spin?how about to play after applying?

MohdHafiz
07-26-2017, 05:02 PM
Apply to the sponge..
It will make the sponge softer..

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Xanderngzien
07-27-2017, 04:04 PM
1. Does adding more than 1 layer help by alot of a little

2. Can you tell the difference between the regular boosters and baby oil?

UpSideDownCarl
07-27-2017, 05:28 PM
You actually can apply baby oil to the topsheet. But you should not do that at the same time as when you apply baby oil to the sponge.

Baby oil to the sponge makes the sponge expand and play with more spring.

Applied to the topsheet of an old rubber, it can make it grip better for a few weeks. You should only do that to a rubber that is losing its grip though. Not to a topsheet with good grip.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Jabugo
07-27-2017, 05:46 PM
1. Does adding more than 1 layer help by alot of a little

2. Can you tell the difference between the regular boosters and baby oil?

2. There are differences even among different boosters. Some give a mushier feel (Falco Long) while others give a crisper livelier feel but lose boost effect sooner (Haifu SeaMoon). Experiment and pick the one that suits your taste. You can even mix boosters for hybrid effects.

Jirrex
07-27-2017, 06:05 PM
You actually can apply baby oil to the topsheet. But you should not do that at the same time as when you apply baby oil to the sponge.

Baby oil to the sponge makes the sponge expand and play with more spring.

Applied to the topsheet of an old rubber, it can make it grip better for a few weeks. You should only do that to a rubber that is losing its grip though. Not to a topsheet with good grip.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

If I recall correctly, you also once said that WD40 could extend the life of a worn rubber for a short period of time. Certain type of rubbers work better with baby oil than with WD40?

Baby oil expanding the sponge and let it play with more spring, how long does that last?

UpSideDownCarl
07-27-2017, 07:17 PM
If I recall correctly, you also once said that WD40 could extend the life of a worn rubber for a short period of time. Certain type of rubbers work better with baby oil than with WD40?

Baby oil expanding the sponge and let it play with more spring, how long does that last?

Yep. That was me. Good memory.

Baby oil works for the topsheet. I like WD40 better for the topsheet. But for tacky rubber either will work fine. They do the same thing. WD40 has a bigger effect on non-tacky topsheets. Baby oil will work about as well on H3.

Well, here is the thing, the expansion makes more space in the air bubbles. Then you get the extra springiness. But, let's say you poured baby oil on a plate and left the plate for a few weeks or months at room temperature. At a certain point it wouldn't feel like oil. It would feel a little dryer and stickier. Then it would start to harden.

It will do that while in your sponge as well. At a certain point it makes the sponge more rigid because residue of oil hardens while it is on the sponge. The oil also causes the rubber molecules to break down and oxidize a little faster.

You still should be able to boost the sponge a few times and keep the rubber playing well for 6 months to a year. At a certain point the rubber will be dead whether you boost it or not though. So it is not worth worrying about this stuff.

Guys like Der_Echte have use H3 for 2-3 years. If you are more fussy about equipment you may change it sooner.

With this stuff, it the rubber still feels okay to you, keep using it. There is no real formula.




Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Archosaurus
07-27-2017, 10:29 PM
My current rubber is quite old and worn. Would it be a good idea to treat it with a method like this?

UpSideDownCarl
07-27-2017, 10:46 PM
My current rubber is quite old and worn. Would it be a good idea to treat it with a method like this?

Yeah. It could help. Try doing baby oil or WD40 to the topsheet first. See if that helps. Not much. A circle the size of a small coin and rub the oil into the topsheet. It will sink in. Then the topsheet will be grippier.

If you decide to do the sponge, wait two weeks after you do the topsheet before you boost the sponge.

Do you have glue for gluing the rubbers back on?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Archosaurus
07-27-2017, 11:00 PM
Yeah. It could help. Try doing baby oil or WD40 to the topsheet first. See if that helps. Not much. A circle the size of a small coin and rub the oil into the topsheet. It will sink in. Then the topsheet will be grippier.

If you decide to do the sponge, wait two weeks after you do the topsheet before you boost the sponge.

Do you have glue for gluing the rubbers back on?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
Alright, so just a little bit of oil then rub it in. Do I just smear it over the topsheet with my fingers and let it absorb? What can I expect from this topsheet boosting: a bit more grab?

Why the sponge after the topsheet?

Yep, I have more than enough to glue it back on ten times if I want. Thanks.

Suga D
07-27-2017, 11:53 PM
Well, here is the thing, the expansion makes more space in the air bubbles. Then you get the extra springiness. But, let's say you poured baby oil on a plate and left the plate for a few weeks or months at room temperature. At a certain point it wouldn't feel like oil. It would feel a little dryer and stickier. Then it would start to harden.

It will do that while in your sponge as well. At a certain point it makes the sponge more rigid because residue of oil hardens while it is on the sponge. The oil also causes the rubber molecules to break down and oxidize a little faster.

You still should be able to boost the sponge a few times and keep the rubber playing well for 6 months to a year. At a certain point the rubber will be dead whether you boost it or not though.

Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Just wanna add one thing:
some oils tend to harden sooner as others. If you take different oils and pour a few drops of each in an own cup and then leave it somewhere on the shelf for a couple of weeks, then some will look like jelly, some will be harder, some will still be runny.
There was a guy on a german forum who's been experiencing boosting (or “reviving“) with different kind of oils.
IIRC linseed oil was hardening quite fast and lavender, almond and tea tree oil was staying runny.
I'll try to find the link, but this could take a little, 'cause just like here posts get burried fast on that forum.

[EDIT: found it! here's the link]
http://forum.tt-news.de/showthread.php?t=82924&highlight=mandel%F6l&page=12

But the time how long these rubbers can be used is pretty accurate.
I've been using the same set up since last year's August and wanted to replace the rubbers now, but my coach asked me: for what? The rubbers are still grippy and 'alive'!!
After eleven months!! (including practice, league matches and a few tournaments!!)
Awesome!!

Jirrex
07-28-2017, 11:23 AM
Yep. That was me. Good memory.

Baby oil works for the topsheet. I like WD40 better for the topsheet. But for tacky rubber either will work fine. They do the same thing. WD40 has a bigger effect on non-tacky topsheets. Baby oil will work about as well on H3.

Well, here is the thing, the expansion makes more space in the air bubbles. Then you get the extra springiness. But, let's say you poured baby oil on a plate and left the plate for a few weeks or months at room temperature. At a certain point it wouldn't feel like oil. It would feel a little dryer and stickier. Then it would start to harden.

It will do that while in your sponge as well. At a certain point it makes the sponge more rigid because residue of oil hardens while it is on the sponge. The oil also causes the rubber molecules to break down and oxidize a little faster.

You still should be able to boost the sponge a few times and keep the rubber playing well for 6 months to a year. At a certain point the rubber will be dead whether you boost it or not though. So it is not worth worrying about this stuff.

Guys like Der_Echte have use H3 for 2-3 years. If you are more fussy about equipment you may change it sooner.

With this stuff, it the rubber still feels okay to you, keep using it. There is no real formula.




Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Thanks for the clear explanation, Carl.

It doesn't sound that interesting to me to boost (with baby oil) at the moment, but it's always interesting to know how things work.


Just wanna add one thing:
some oils tend to harden sooner as others. If you take different oils and pour a few drops of each in an own cup and then leave it somewhere on the shelf for a couple of weeks, then some will look like jelly, some will be harder, some will still be runny.
There was a guy on a german forum who's been experiencing boosting (or “reviving“) with different kind of oils.
IIRC linseed oil was hardening quite fast and lavender, almond and tea tree oil was staying runny.
I'll try to find the link, but this could take a little, 'cause just like here posts get burried fast on that forum.

[EDIT: found it! here's the link]
http://forum.tt-news.de/showthread.php?t=82924&highlight=mandel%F6l&page=12

But the time how long these rubbers can be used is pretty accurate.
I've been using the same set up since last year's August and wanted to replace the rubbers now, but my coach asked me: for what? The rubbers are still grippy and 'alive'!!
After eleven months!! (including practice, league matches and a few tournaments!!)
Awesome!!

Interesting thread, thanks for sharing.

Suga D
07-28-2017, 11:47 AM
Thanks for the clear explanation, Carl.

It doesn't sound that interesting to me to boost (with baby oil) at the moment, but it's always interesting to know how things work.



Interesting thread, thanks for sharing.

Anytime, buddy
:D

Archosaurus
07-28-2017, 04:50 PM
I'm curious: how does olive oil work for this? Or any other cooking oil?

Suga D
07-28-2017, 05:42 PM
I'm curious: how does olive oil work for this? Or any other cooking oil?
Not really sure how much this has to do with saturation of fats and oils but according to 'Bebsch' olive oil lies pretty much in the middle of the table of saturated fats and oils, so not really recommandable but still usable to a degree. Better would be sunflower oil, or as i wrote above lavender oil or tea tree oil.
Here:
13864

UpSideDownCarl
07-28-2017, 06:58 PM
I actually think the oils that work are ones that evaporate and are related to the kinds of oils that are more flammable.

If you took water, a sponge, whether a dish sponge or a TT sponge will absorb the water and that would cause the sponge to expand.

But that would not give you a boost effect. This is why some oils make the rubber feel mushy. This is also why you don't want to use too much mineral oil (baby oil). Why it can make the sponge feel mushy.

The oils that give the best boost effect evaporate fairly quickly like Paraffin or even more toxic oils.

That they evaporate quickly makes it so the pores in the sponge have more gas in them so the sponge is more springy. But this is also why the boost effect does not last that long. The oil evaporates.

Oils that don't evaporate will saturate the sponge pores. This gives an odd effect that isn't quite ideal for boosting.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Suga D
07-29-2017, 12:58 AM
Well the saturation of fats and the saturation of sponges are two different pair of shoes, but I think you've made an very interesting point. In fact i think it's mostly the gases inside the oils that are causing the boost effect. If you look at speed glue it was mostly the evaporating gases that caused that effect too.
This could also be a reason why ethereal oils seem to work so well.

I'm far from being a chemist (rather a herb specialist) but this really makes sense to me.

Thanks, Carl. Good one!
[Emoji106]

Xanderngzien
07-30-2017, 02:45 PM
Which brand did u guys use? Johnsons??

Suga D
07-30-2017, 11:43 PM
Just couldn't resist!
13870

Then how about this?
[Emoji12]
13871

UpSideDownCarl
07-31-2017, 04:35 AM
Well the saturation of fats and the saturation of sponges are two different pair of shoes, but I think you've made an very interesting point. In fact i think it's mostly the gases inside the oils that are causing the boost effect. If you look at speed glue it was mostly the evaporating gases that caused that effect too.
This could also be a reason why ethereal oils seem to work so well.

I'm far from being a chemist (rather a herb specialist) but this really makes sense to me.

Thanks, Carl. Good one!
[Emoji106]

Yep. And I have to confess, that info originally came from Pnachtwey.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

yuvayamini2
02-22-2019, 05:45 AM
Hi,
Thanks for the nice post and it is very useful.

fais
02-23-2019, 12:15 AM
On a side note - given that you have a Yinhe v14, can you please share your experience of how it plays as compared to some other brand blades, if you have them as well. ;)

From my experience the v14 is defintely a looper's blade. The face of the blade is a bit thin and flexy, so the blade favors loops over drives further away from the table (this doesnot mean you can't drive with this blade, it just feels unnatural to me). The carbokev layer does ensures that the blade doesn't bottom out from further way, but from what i remember the yinhe v16 feels more balanced and better suited for backhand. The ball feel is somewhat muted, so i feel like this blade is better suited for people with good touch and technique (this is an offensive blade after all). I keep this blade for when i want to mess around, but I'm too inconsistent with this for where i am now. I'm currently playing with the w-6 and I have the yinhe e3vb in the mail arriving shortly. I prefer allround+/offensive- blades, and the e3vb falls in that catagory (plus the fiberglass layer offers excellent feedback).


Hope this helps (sorry if im replying a little late).