How rubbers' "Control" should be read?

Hi,
I don't have too much experiance with so many different rubbers, but with time I've noticed that in many cases I play better and with much more "control" with rubbers, marked with less control. And on the opposite - I fail with some rubbers, presumed to have a lot of control.
When I tryed to analyze this I came to a conclusion, that for some rubbers 'control' means that the rubber behaviour is very sensitive to the slightest differences in the technique, i.e. it can be controled much more precisly, provided the player is able to execute precisly just what he intended to do.
On the other hand other rubbers, marked with less control, are much more 'forgiving', maybe because they are not so sensitive to so slight differences.

So how do you read 'control'?
 
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The thing about the term control, the way it is often used about TT equipment is that it's meaning is dependent on context.

Often people say a thinner rubber has more control, meaning it is easier to control.

This would be accurate for a player who does not spin the ball as much and makes more drive shots. For someone who spins everything, the spin gives you control and the thicker rubber enables one to spin more.

So, for me, a max rubber with good grip for spinning the ball allows me more control.

A long pips rubber may allow chop blocker to put the ball back with little technique or effort. So, for chop blocking LP make that easier. But if you try to brush loop with LP, you will not be likely to control the shot.


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Yes, thank you.
It is obvious, that a rubber designed for a particular style will fail with other techniques.
My question is more about the different context of "control" level, marked by the producer, in terms of the expertise level the rubber is meant for and the expertise level of the player himself.
 
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I think the more speed/rebound/catapult/sensitivity to spin it has, the lower on the control scale manufacturers mark it

So basically, if a newbie picked up rubber X and Y, which would be easier for them to use?
 
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The question is, "control" of what?

I find those ratings meaningless. A lot of the time it is just the inverse of speed.
 
The question is, "control" of what?

Well, basically said - control on where you want to land the ball, with what speed, spin and trajectory.
Some rubbers, rated with more control, give much grater deviations than those with less control, even if they are from one and the same family.
 
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Hi,
I don't have too much experiance with so many different rubbers, but with time I've noticed that in many cases I play better and with much more "control" with rubbers, marked with less control. And on the opposite - I fail with some rubbers, presumed to have a lot of control.
When I tryed to analyze this I came to a conclusion, that for some rubbers 'control' means that the rubber behaviour is very sensitive to the slightest differences in the technique, i.e. it can be controled much more precisly, provided the player is able to execute precisly just what he intended to do.
On the other hand other rubbers, marked with less control, are much more 'forgiving', maybe because they are not so sensitive to so slight differences.

So how do you read 'control'?

1st, I completely agree with Carl answer.

My own way to read control,

The probability of new player with conforming play style like the rubber. [emoji6]

Let say, Control 8 out 10 means, roughly 80 % of intended player would like it. [emoji28]

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Let say, Control 8 out 10 means, roughly 80 % of intended player would like it.
emoji28.png

Ok, it's very true for some brands and models.

Maybe it would be better to explain of what my question is porvoked.
In my club most of the players - pros, amateurs, children - play with T05. Pros give their old /1 month used/ rubbers to the children, they are happy and play well. Some of the children and lot of the amateurs just want to play with new rubbers, but can not afford Butterfly prices. When they ask me, I usually advise beginners and intermediate to try Xiom Vega family rubbers and they are happy for Vegas are very confortable to play. To more advanced I propose Omega V Pro or Asia and they are happy too. But if they ask the trainers /most often of course, and it should be/ they advise them Omega V Tour as it is expected to be a bit slower, but more spinny and with more "control". Well, trainers play amazingly well with it, as I see Xiom sponsored players play with it too. But most oftem in the hands of beginners and intermediates it doesn't play well. And then they are not happy, because the trainer starts "why did you do this, you should make it this way". And the player makes it this way, may be with a slight defference, but the result is with greater deviation. "No, there is something wrong, this rubber is very well controlable".
Ok. it may be really very controlable, but in the hands of tour palyers - national and international, and it's marked by Xiom - a rubber for 'tour' expertise.
 
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Well, now I really can't make heads or tails of what your question seems to be. But since you like your own answer, stick with it.

You are right even though I am not quite sure what you just said. [emoji2]


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Hi,
I've just came to an article in which "control" is very well explained.
I know many of you are very well acquanted with this, but want to share anyway.

http://en.butterflymag.com/2015/06/all-about-tenergy-22/

At the middle of the article there is a section "What is control anyway?"

I found the conclusions very similar to my experiance and helped me to understand the reasons for the different "control" feelings with different rubbers.
 
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Hi,
I've just came to an article in which "control" is very well explained.
I know many of you are very well acquanted with this, but want to share anyway.

http://en.butterflymag.com/2015/06/all-about-tenergy-22/

At the middle of the article there is a section "What is control anyway?"

I found the conclusions very similar to my experiance and helped me to understand the reasons for the different "control" feelings with different rubbers.

For the TL;DR crowd, here the distinction between active and passive play is made, and that resonates with me immediately; I actually ditched T05 because I just couldn't make it work in passive play, although it worked just fine when playing actively.

When I decided I need to have both available, that was curtains for me and T05.
 
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That explanation is incomplete though. And it seems langel missed that this idea of passive and active was contained in my answer.

The thing about the term control, the way it is often used about TT equipment is that it's meaning is dependent on context.....

.....So, for me, a max rubber with good grip for spinning the ball allows me more control.

What langel caught was that different kinds of rubbers for different purposes are credited with control on different kinds of shots.

A long pips rubber may allow chop blocker to put the ball back with little technique or effort. So, for chop blocking LP make that easier. But if you try to brush loop with LP, you will not be likely to control the shot.

But I indicated more than this. Yes, I did not explain because this stuff has been explained on the forums many times.
And what I said indicated more than passive and active or different kinds of equipment.

Often people say a thinner rubber has more control, meaning it is easier to control.

This would be accurate for a player who does not spin the ball as much and makes more drive shots. For someone who spins everything, the spin gives you control and the thicker rubber enables one to spin more.

Different techniques cause people to feel different amounts of control with the same equipment or rubber. Driving is not passive. But the contact is more direct and a rubber with which it is easier to spin the ball, is often harder to use for direct contact.

A flaw in the distinction between passive and active is that, I can make spin contact when I block or I can make direct contact when I block. A very spinny rubber with max sponge that is harder to control in blocking with flat contact will still be easier to control on blocks with spin contact.

A last detail here and an important one: We use the term control as a function of language. But if anyone is thinking about it, we all do know that the rubber does not have control or lack of control. The person, his technique, his play skills are where the control or lack of control is. The rubber is simply easier to use for certain things or not as easy to use for those certain things. But the player controls the equipment.

So, unfortunately, the term control is generally used to indicate how easy the specified rubber is to control while performing a few techniques out of many. And which techniques the term refers to, is never stated and can change depending on who is using the term "control."

So, with Offensive equipment like modern tensor rubbers or the non-ESN equivalents (Tenergy, FastArc, Airoc etc), the term often refers to whether it is easier to hit flatter with it rather than spin more with it. The more you use the valuable properties of those rubbers--the topsheet, the sponge, the ball sinking in while brushing, the distortion of the topsheet on deep brush contact, the rebound of the sponge and topsheet--to grab and spin the ball, the more the rubbers that are said to have less control, actually allow you to exercise more control via the spin. And the more you make direct contact and hit flatter, the more the rubbers that do not spin the ball as well, are easier to control.

So, if your technique is more spin oriented, you will derive more control from rubbers that spin the ball better. And if you use more direct impact, you will obtain more control with rubbers that are less reactive to incoming spin.

And so the most meaningful pieces of information presented so far are this:

The question is, "control" of what?
I find those ratings meaningless. A lot of the time it is just the inverse of speed.


And this:

Any kind of numbers a company says are solely a marketing device.
 
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How rubbers' "Control" should be read?

The more you use the valuable properties of those rubbers--the topsheet, the sponge, the ball sinking in while brushing, the distortion of the topsheet on deep brush contact, the rebound of the sponge and topsheet--to grab and spin the ball......

When you feel that action of the ball sinking into the sponge while you are making deep brush contact, and that feeling when the topsheet distorts because the ball does not sink straight back into the sponge but sinks in tangentially (at an angle) that causes the topsheet to stretch sideways and distort as it grabs the ball....when you feel the distorted topsheet snap back on the rebound and how that creates, what gets called mechanical spin....well, for me that feeling of making the kind of contact that does that is kind of addictive. :)

Oh, say, is that the goon squad over there? Gotta go!
 
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When you feel that action of the ball sinking into the sponge while you are making deep brush contact, and that feeling when the topsheet distorts because the ball does not sink straight back into the sponge but sinks in tangentially (at an angle) that causes the topsheet to stretch sideways and distort as it grabs the ball....when you feel the distorted topsheet snap back on the rebound and how that creates, what gets called mechanical spin....well, for me that feeling of making the kind of contact that does that is kind of addictive. :)

Oh, say, is that the goon squad over there? Gotta go!

I have no memory of writing that. It must be fake news.
 
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Well explained, Carl.
Excellent!
I just would like to add in one tiny little correction.

....Offensive equipment like modern tensor rubbers or the non-ESN equivalents (Tenergy, FastArc, Airoc etc), the term often refers to whether it is easier to hit flatter with it rather than spin more with it...

The Nittaku Fastarc series is also produced by ESN.
Hence it makes me smile when people say that ESN rubbers are too bouncy and 'instead' prefer 'japanese' rubbers like the Fastarc.
[Emoji12]

I'm not talking bout you, but been reading these kind a statements every once in a while, so i thought some clarification could be helpful and necessary.

But as i said, all your other points are pretty much on point!
[Emoji2]
 
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