Struggling to drive the ball after change to chinese rubber

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Hi all, what's the correct way to drive the ball with chinese rubber? I never had dificult to drive the ball with Tenergy 05 but when I changed to Chinese Rubber, although loops are much more pleasant to do, I'm struggling with ball driving because of the sponge hardness. Should I close more the bat? Should I add some spin to the drive? Thanks in advance.

Best regards,
Eduardo Bagarrão
 
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Without a video, it's hard to say.

In general, try using a bigger stroke and swing through the ball more.

Chinese hard sponges require a bigger swing, since the sponge won't react much to a small swing.

Well, this is older. Now I have better technique, a little slower as I don't train so much as in this times. But this was with Tenergy 05 both sides and TBALC(I'm the green shirt guy).

https://www.facebook.com/eduardo.bagarrao/videos/vb.100001020180356/848707155173283/?type=3

Maybe you're right, I have short movement in driving, but feels so strange to drive with this rubbers :p
 
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I had the same problem to the point where i could not do more then 3 drives, but loops much more consistent. I found two ways. One is to lightly go over the ball adding spin utilizing the underarm, though that is not feasible(for me) in a match as it requires significant precision. Second is to get your arm slightly tensed up, open your bat and use the waist as your axis+ Some should movement with rthe tense arm to allow the momentum to be transferred to the ball. Furthermore i got more consisted when i fixed my wrist.
 
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I had the same problem to the point where i could not do more then 3 drives, but loops much more consistent. I found two ways. One is to lightly go over the ball adding spin utilizing the underarm, though that is not feasible(for me) in a match as it requires significant precision. Second is to get your arm slightly tensed up, open your bat and use the waist as your axis+ Some should movement with rthe tense arm to allow the momentum to be transferred to the ball. Furthermore i got more consisted when i fixed my wrist.

Even when I do a good warm up, it's dificult to drive. I have to do some loops so I can get more feel, then I can drive more easily!

I'll try both ways, it's something I definitely have to improve , thank you! ;)
 
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Hi all, what's the correct way to drive the ball with chinese rubber? I never had dificult to drive the ball with Tenergy 05 but when I changed to Chinese Rubber, although loops are much more pleasant to do, I'm struggling with ball driving because of the sponge hardness. Should I close more the bat? Should I add some spin to the drive? Thanks in advance.

Best regards,
Eduardo Bagarrão
There's difference between Chinese rubbers. Which one in specific?

In general you need faster recovery for the next stroke. Therefore strengths in thigh and core are critical.

But once you unleash the full power of even a cheap Neo H3, you will notice it can beat T05 by a large margin.

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It is a big change. It takes time. The philosophy of the rubbers is completely different, and you need to give time for your technique to adapt to it. You may want to start by opening your racket angle a little.
 
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There's difference between Chinese rubbers. Which one in specific?

In general you need faster recovery for the next stroke. Therefore strengths in thigh and core are critical.

But once you unleash the full power of even a cheap Neo H3, you will notice it can beat T05 by a large margin.

Passionate about TT


Well, A friend of mine gave me two rubbers:

- DHS H3 NEO #22 40º 2.2mm;
- DHS H3 NEO #22 41º 2.15mm.

The first was much more tacky then the second one. I could do all more easily with the first one, the second I felt that the ball doesn't stick to the topsheet, probably QC issues. I know they are too thick to play with boost and glue layers and may exceed 4mm of total thickness, but it was only to give it a try. I don't whan't to play with such an inconsistent rubber in terms of QC and I tried a 729-08 of my coach and I loved it. As I see that 729 has better QC that DHS I ordered 2 729-08(Provincial Version). Hope that will be more easier to do all :p
 
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It is a big change. It takes time. The philosophy of the rubbers is completely different, and you need to give time for your technique to adapt to it. You may want to start by opening your racket angle a little.

Yeah, it's really different! Thank you ;)
 
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You don't brush with a drive. You may put some spin in a drive with the arm trajectory and a wrist swing at the release point.
Chinese rubbers don't have the catapult of tensors and tenergy, so to achive speed you need longer and harder moove and swing. The tacky rubber makes it feel easyer to hold and lead the ball, but it needs more accurate release.

Maybe it would be good to start with shorter drives over the table and at closer distance, just to feel the rubbers, and then try longer drives at mid distance.
 
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With the polyballs today yes. I would suggest adding a brushing motion to it. i am also particular in my statement that it is important to brush the ball even in smashes. Langel seem to twist my statements always. He says not to brush the ball but add spin using the wrist. As if using the wrist and adding spin to it is not brushing. Lol.
 
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By the way Eduardo, I am a long time Hurricane 3, Globe 999 National and now Vega China user for the forehand. Shifting to the polyball really hurt my style. With the celluloid ball even just thin contact brushing can win you a lot of points before nowadays you need to hit through the sponge while brushing it. One thing you must realize with a Chinese rubber is that, it has the tendency to hit the net especially if you are hitting it flat. I do not know just because a drive is a drive it should be restricted to having no spin people will say to not add spin to it. Let me tell you from experience, adding spin to the drive creates an arc. That arcs makes the ball clear the net better than not adding spin to it.
 
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Well, A friend of mine gave me two rubbers:

- DHS H3 NEO #22 40º 2.2mm;
- DHS H3 NEO #22 41º 2.15mm.

The first was much more tacky then the second one. I could do all more easily with the first one, the second I felt that the ball doesn't stick to the topsheet, probably QC issues. I know they are too thick to play with boost and glue layers and may exceed 4mm of total thickness, but it was only to give it a try. I don't whan't to play with such an inconsistent rubber in terms of QC and I tried a 729-08 of my coach and I loved it. As I see that 729 has better QC that DHS I ordered 2 729-08(Provincial Version). Hope that will be more easier to do all :p
The difference can be due to stock. Older stock is more tacky. New stock has lost about half the tackiness. I saw a guy with a new sheet of H3, looks like Euro non tacky rubber.

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By the way Eduardo, I am a long time Hurricane 3, Globe 999 National and now Vega China user for the forehand. Shifting to the polyball really hurt my style. With the celluloid ball even just thin contact brushing can win you a lot of points before nowadays you need to hit through the sponge while brushing it. One thing you must realize with a Chinese rubber is that, it has the tendency to hit the net especially if you are hitting it flat. I do not know just because a drive is a drive it should be restricted to having no spin people will say to not add spin to it. Let me tell you from experience, adding spin to the drive creates an arc. That arcs makes the ball clear the net better than not adding spin to it.
Hi yogi_bear, try Neo Skyline 2 41 degree. Even with the poly ball you can still spin and hit like the celluloid. Pretty amazing

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With the polyballs today yes. I would suggest adding a brushing motion to it. i am also particular in my statement that it is important to brush the ball even in smashes. Langel seem to twist my statements always. He says not to brush the ball but add spin using the wrist. As if using the wrist and adding spin to it is not brushing. Lol.

No, I'm not twisting you, why you say so, of course not.
Maybe its a matter of interpretation, but for me a wrist swing is different from brush. If a wrist swing makes a brush, than its a brush. But for me the release wrist swing at the end of a drive is not a brush. If we call it a brush - its ok, it would not change the result.
Drives and smashes may have spin, or may have not. No problem here. I've said my way to put spin on drives.
Smashes are different thing - you can put spin with a brush, a swing, or a slap.
 
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Nah. I like the provincial purple packaging at 39 degrees boosted.
The Orange Sponge has the purple packing? Also how many booster layers do you put?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddVkXRh1UeY
Stat watching at 11 minutes. I think it shows the fundamentals pretty well, and one can see how he utilizes his waist as the pivot, and there is zero wrist action
 
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