Sealing a blade with cutting board oil?

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I know this had been discussed a lot in other posts but I couldn’t find any information of sealing a blade with cutting board oil. I know various oils could be used for sealing the blade such as linseed oil, tung oil, hard wax oil. Do you guys think cutting board oil could be used for sealing the blade?
 
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So, I think, what you have to ask is, "What is the purpose of oiling a cutting board and is it different than the purpose for SEALING a blade?"

The truth of the matter is, you don't need to seal most well crafted blades. But some of the reasons why you might seal a blade are:

-Protect blade from the water in water based glue by providing a thin waterproof seal over the top ply.
-Protect top ply from damage when changing rubbers.

And what are the reasons for OILING a cutting board or wooden spoon?

-Keep the wood from drying, warping and cracking as a result of regular washing.

Now, for sure, you could put a cutting board oil on a blade. Here are things you could expect to occur as a result:

-Blade would be made a little heavier.
-Blade would become a little softer and it may lose some of its crispness, snap and pop depending on the blade.

Would cutting board oil protect the top ply from damage while changing rubbers? It is hard to say, but probably not. But it also probably would not make the top ply more subject to damage. Would the cutting board oil SEAL the top ply from penetration of water from the WBGlue? No. But it would make it so that the damage from the water had less of an impact.

One last detail here: A lot of the wood plies of blades are prepared with certain aging, drying and hardening processes that make the blade have more speed and snap, more crispness and pop. If you want a duller feeling blade with good touch, if you want to make your blade softer, the oil may be good for adding spin to your shots and short game. And if you want to keep the crispness and pop, if you want to keep the speed and power your blade has, I am not so sure you would want to use an oil that is designed to keep wood from drying out.

One more aside: part of the mystique of older blades, part of why old old blades, classic blades FEEL SOOOOOO GOOD, is that, in the normal course of things, a blade, as it ages, dries out and loses some of the moisture it has been holding. And as that happens the blade starts to feel better and better; crisper and more vibrant. If you want that to happen, you may not want to oil the blade. However, if you like the soft, dull feel of a Primorac and want even more of a soft, dull feeling, (and I happen to love the soft dull feeling of a good Primorac) then cutting board oil may be a great experiment.

I would try it on a blade you are not tooooooo attached to first though.
 
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So, I think, what you have to ask is, "What is the purpose of oiling a cutting board and is it different than the purpose for SEALING a blade?"

The truth of the matter is, you don't need to seal most well crafted blades. But some of the reasons why you might seal a blade are:

-Protect blade from the water in water based glue by providing a thin waterproof seal over the top ply.
-Protect top ply from damage when changing rubbers.

And what are the reasons for OILING a cutting board or wooden spoon?

-Keep the wood from drying, warping and cracking as a result of regular washing.

Now, for sure, you could put a cutting board oil on a blade. Here are things you could expect to occur as a result:

-Blade would be made a little heavier.
-Blade would become a little softer and it may lose some of its crispness, snap and pop depending on the blade.

Would cutting board oil protect the top ply from damage while changing rubbers? It is hard to say, but probably not. But it also probably would not make the top ply more subject to damage. Would the cutting board oil SEAL the top ply from penetration of water from the WBGlue? No. But it would make it so that the damage from the water had less of an impact.

One last detail here: A lot of the wood plies of blades are prepared with certain aging, drying and hardening processes that make the blade have more speed and snap, more crispness and pop. If you want a duller feeling blade with good touch, if you want to make your blade softer, the oil may be good for adding spin to your shots and short game. And if you want to keep the crispness and pop, if you want to keep the speed and power your blade has, I am not so sure you would want to use an oil that is designed to keep wood from drying out.

One more aside: part of the mystique of older blades, part of why old old blades, classic blades FEEL SOOOOOO GOOD, is that, in the normal course of things, a blade, as it ages, dries out and loses some of the moisture it has been holding. And as that happens the blade starts to feel better and better; crisper and more vibrant. If you want that to happen, you may not want to oil the blade. However, if you like the soft, dull feel of a Primorac and want even more of a soft, dull feeling, (and I happen to love the soft dull feeling of a good Primorac) then cutting board oil may be a great experiment.

I would try it on a blade you are not tooooooo attached to first though.

Thank you for your detailed answer! I certainly want more crisp feeling of the blade as well as the protection of the blade from the WBG. So do you think other oil based sealer will do that? I was thinking about using the hard wax oil by osmo, linseed oil or the Good Stuff wood finish.
I do not want to use shiny polyurethane stuffs since I’ve heard those stuffs harden the blade, don’t allow the moisture get out of the blade.
Could you recommend any other oil based sealer?
 
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I agree with most of what Carl said about the cutting board oil - it is designed to keep the wood from drying out, leaving end grains supple and slowing damage from cutting. It's usually mineral oil based (food contact "acceptable", but doesn't go rancid like other animal/plant based oils). I would not add it to your blade if you are looking for a crisp feeling.

Many people report not being able to tell the difference between blades that have been sealed properly, and those that have not been sealed at all. My concern if you start getting into hard-wax type finishes, is that they might interfere with the glue adhesion. Boiled linseed oil might work alright, if given enough time to dry.

The question that you really need to ask is: Why do you want to seal your blade in the first place? If it is to protect the wood from splintering when changing rubbers, then few things would do it as well as polyurethane (which, by the way, often comes from minwax as "oil-modified"). If your goal is to experiment and see if surface treatments can modify the playing properties, then you may want to experiment with some of those other finishes you mentioned.
 
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says Spin and more spin.
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Here is a link to a thread I made about how I like to seal blades.

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/fo...6-The-UpSideDown-Method-of-Sealing-Your-Blade

Min Wax Wipe On Poly. It allows you to apply a very thin layer of Poly sealant that protects the blade but does not change how the blade feels or plays.

There is a video in the thread where I show exactly how long it takes for me to seal a blade with Wipe On Poly.

If you used oils, they would not seal the blade. They would soften the wood and add moisture to it. So, if it was a piece of furniture, that would protect it unless you spilled something on it. Those oil FINISHES would also make it look nice. But they would not do the kind of protecting that you would want if you actually wanted to seal your blade.

But, for the most part, if you don't change your rubbers every 2-4 weeks, you probably don't need to seal your blade. Leave it how it is and play.
 
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I seal all my blades.
This time I want to give the new blade a try. New model blade, 2018.
I glued the rubber once only. And this what happened when I took off the rubber to put on other blade.

Back to sealing all blades again for me!

9e5f1c26addd88db5bdc7415c6226713.jpg
c49fa72cc06d93c101198417c4c31797.jpg


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