Tenergy -> Aurus Select: Thickness & Blade

Could you upload a footage showing your issues? the fault could be easier to solve this way

The best advice with that info is you need to replace your rubbers for something more forgivable, if you like Euro rubbers you could use mid to mid-hard rubbers, less spinny and more control, vega euro is a good choice, you can choose vega pro too but it's lower throw than euro.
Finally you can get advice from your trainer which knows you better than anyone here

I also have played with T05 in max i fh years ago. Dont like it because of the price and it has low time before it feels old and need to be changed.
Now i use Xioum Omega VII black in max. Im satisfied with it. The price is good. Quality is excelent and i feel its better than T05.

I feel more control in my Xiom Omega than with T05.
To play with T05 you have to be a very good player and train 3-4 times a week.
There are may others rubbers that are at least as good as T05 and cheaper

Beep-Beep said:

@ dominus7
I have thought about vega euro too.
My trainer knows nothing about equipment.

@ Hustler37
I know; but my problem is that I need more control than T05; even on a very slow blade.

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I was playing with vega euro and I can share my experience, is lesser spinny than EL-P, MX-P but more controllable, it was attached on a Korbel, which is faster than your donic, but anyway is very forgiving.

Hustler37 said:

I feel more control in my Xiom Omega than with T05.
To play with T05 you have to be a very good player and train 3-4 times a week.
There are may others rubbers that are at least as good as T05 and cheaper

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Xiom Omega VII is very expensive, and if you read reviews about it, they don't last long, vega euro and pro are cheaper and more controllable. No offense

Ive got my Xiom Omega VII euro on sale. I only bye table tennis stuff on sale

Rakza 7 soft 1,8 + Rossi Emotion.

Tenergy -> Aurus Select: Thickness & Blade

It might be more of a training issue if you can hit cross court but cannot change to down the line. I used to have a similar problem but it was an issue with my body positioning and my stroke motion.

That said... I’d go with the Temper Tech ALL+. It might just be my personal preference, but I feel like a standard “ALL” blade is too flexy and slow for a 1400-1500 player using the 40+ ball.

Also, I used to use Vega Europe. It was too mushy and inconsistent on backhand for (but I liked it on forehand).



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Beep-Beep said:

Never thought about carbon+thin soft rubber, thanks

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I don't think carbon + soft rubber is a good idea. Also it's not a good idea to change the blade and the rubbers at the same time as you won't know what is doing what effect and it might be a too big change.

I think you blade is very good, just take a slower rubber than T05. Any that is around 40° will be perfect i think. And if after a while you find it too slow, upgrade to harder.

So why not rakza 7 soft in 2mm on FH and BH ? Vega Euro why not but i don't know it.

IMO you should never feel that the blade is too fast or hard to control, if it ever happens it really means you could find something better for you

Beep-Beep said:

Background:

I am 45 years old and I have played for 4 years (I also played as a kid from age 9-13).
I am a 1400-1500, low-intermediate player (allround/off), who spins a lot. I loop consistently and have good and consistent strokes in training.
I have played with Appelgreen Allplay (FH: T05 (2.1) and BH T80 (1.9)) for a year.

Problem:

Allhough my setup is good for me; I have the following problems:

1: Changing from crosscourt to down the line (or middle) during match play.

2: Placing the ball and avoiding making the first error during midspeed drive “rallies”.

3: When warming up, my FH drive is terrible the first 5-10 mins (and I mean really terrible) while FH loops are fine from the first stroke.

(1) and (2) are loosing me a lot of matches, that I should clearly have won. (1) because I get too predictable and (2) for obvious reasons

I have come to the conclusion, that fixing those problems is far more important, than getting the extra spin on my (crosscourt) loops and serves, with my current setup.

Played with a different bat for a week:

I have borrowed a "club-bat" from our youth group the last week. It is a Yasaka 2040 blade (a very light blade), with FH: Aurus Select (1.9), BH: Xiom Vega Euro DF (1.9) and it fixes all the above problems (even though the BH is not optimal).

When warming up, FH-drives also works instantly; and that feels really great!

Is it also excellent defensively and the blocking is great when under pressure in games.

The combo works very good in my forhand (Aurus Select 1.9), and I wonder how much the blade factors in. It might work well with 2.1 too on my Appelgreen Allplay, since Aurus Select is much more controllable than Tenergy 05.

So I am planning to give Aurus Select on both sides a go.

My question is:

1: Should I get 2.1 (both sides), 1.9 (both sides) or FH (2.1)/BH(1:9) - I am using a different blade than Yasaka 2040.

2: Should I put them on (see end of post) my Appelgreen ? or try the Primorac OFF-, Rossi Emotion, or something else (buy the Yasaka 2040?).

I guess the standard is to try the Allplay first, since that is what I have played with the last to years (only changing one thing at the time)

3: Anything obvious that I am missing (another rubber/blade combo).


---
PS:
I have the following blades:
Appelgreen Allplay (82g) - used for 2 years with Tenergy.
Temper Tech All+ (71g) - played with that a couple of years ago.
Primorac OFF- (84g) - used for 30 mins with same Tenergy rubbers, did not work for me.
Rossi Emotion (82g) - never used
TBS (82g) - never used (bought when planning for Karis rubbers, but never got around to it).

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Damn Beep-Beep, I feel really bad about being selfish that time I visited. I should have made it a point to play a match or hit around with you. I ended up playing non-stop matches vs your better crowd there. However, you DID get to see a couple of my matches and I hope I made it worth watching. I think you saw a few of my better BH shots that night vs the American resident/visitor.

1: Should I get 2.1 (both sides), 1.9 (both sides) or FH (2.1)/BH(1:9) - I am using a different blade than Yasaka 2040.

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You are good enough to get 2.1 sponge for what you do.

2: Should I put them on (see end of post) my Appelgreen ? or try the Primorac OFF-, Rossi Emotion, or something else (buy the Yasaka 2040?).

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Any of those blades would work great with anything named Aurus or Vega. The goal should be to discover the sponge hardness for how you hit. Myself, I have learned that I am a SOFTIE for FH... but on BH, I can use firmer rubbers, since I have a very good impact.

I guess the standard is to try the Allplay first, since that is what I have played with the last to years (only changing one thing at the time)

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Play with a blade you understand and suits what you want to do. Any of the ones you mentioned will help you deliver the goods.

3: Anything obvious that I am missing (another rubber/blade combo).

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Not really, the control class rubbers you want will work fine, get them in 2.1 or max... at least 2.0 if available. If there is only 1.9, go for 2.1

1: Changing from crosscourt to down the line (or middle) during match play.

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This is not an equipment issue. It is a problem of being in position, rotating waist shoulders, and waiting for the ball to come deeper into the impact zone, so that when you strike, you are squared away facing the down the line direction. it is that simple... and when you can consistently do that, you will tie up your opponents. Allowing the ball to come deeper into the zone while you wait allows you to use the same stroke with the same control... don't need to rip it, you will fool opponent often.

2: Placing the ball and avoiding making the first error during midspeed drive “rallies”.

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That is a tough issue and the more you train and play, the better you will get at it. One thing to help is to get down. I know, I have issues with that too. One thing you can immediately try to do is make a tiny bend of your knees when your opponent hits. It will help balance and get you a tiny lower, maybe enough to judge the ball better. I have issues there too, don't hang yourself, we need you on the forum. Another thing you can do is take 30 cm tiny step back and wait just a tiny bit, then go into action, you have the time.

3: When warming up, my FH drive is terrible the first 5-10 mins (and I mean really terrible) while FH loops are fine from the first stroke.

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If you have seen me in action, I am 10x worse in this area and I made it to the Serie 1 level with this deficiency, so it isn't all bad news for you. I do not hit 10 to 100 drives in a row in a rally, so it isn't gunna kill you right now. Train and play the shots you immediately are going to use, and the ones you will use for strategic growth goals. Rambo always accepted that he was like he was and not fight against it, that concept could apply to you. (and me)

(1) and (2) are loosing me a lot of matches, that I should clearly have won. (1) because I get too predictable and (2) for obvious reasons

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Some of it is mental, some of it is needing more experience, some of it is like you say, needing more variety and possible responses. Some of it is just having the courage to go for your shots and leverage your strengths. Some of it is the opponent being a better Warrior... but you are in the position to judge any of this way better than me.

The bat I used that day was either the V2 Donic Perrson Power Play (wooden OFF-) with Vega Pro FH / Nittaku Moristo BH or the V1 Donic Perrson Power Play with Sigma II Euro FH / Nittaku Moristo BH.

I can alos play a softer BH rubber no problem as well, I think the Moristo I had was semi-soft sponge. Just an old-school OFF control rubber. Somehow, even with my kind of BH impact, I value a control rubber there.