Backhand Rubber for Flicks - Fastarc G1 vs other rubbers

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Hallo guys,

I'm currently using Fastarc G1 (2.0 mm) on both sides of a TSP Swat.
G1 is both easy to use for pushes and topspin play due to the low catapult in the low-force domain.
However, it requires a relatively high amount of arm swing and minimum acceleration to get activated due to the harder topsheet.

This characteristic renders it quite demanding to use for backhand flicks during matchplay, as a rather big movement with a lot of forearm use ist required (watch for example the technique of Morizono Masataka, who uses G1 on backhand and uses the backhand flick a lot in matchplay).

I did some research to find a rubber, which is more forginving to use for flicks and still retains the low-catapult-characteristic that allows to keep pushes low. Yasaka Rakza 7 might be an option (softer topsheet and still medium hard sponge), but I haven't tried it yet.

I would appreciate your thoughts about the topic and advice about possible rubber choices, which might valuable for a lot of intermediate players.
Thank you in advance .
 
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If you really like G1 but find it too hard for backhand then C1 seems like an obvous choice.

I have had G1 FH and C1 BH for a year and C1 was significantly easier to dig the ball in and cerate spin and arc, a bit slower, less precise and more bouncy but still very easy and predictable to use with great spin. Will probably go back to it on both sides once my EL-S and Hexer Grip wore out.

Regarding Rakza7- not sure it is significantly easier and softer then G1; if you insist on older tensors with 47.5 degree sponges and soft topsheet than perhaps Tibhar Genius or original Andro Hexer might be better choices
 
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Hmm, I find harder/firmer topsheets better for flicks. Feels more precise and crisp. Soft rubbers feel too mushy on over the table play.
 
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Has anyone tried Rakza 7 ? Ist it possible to Flick with more margin for error compared to G1 while being able to keep pushes short and low as easy as with G1?
 
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Ist it possible to Flick with more margin for error compared to G1 while being able to keep pushes short and low as easy as with G1?

You might find that any rubber that is softer or has a less stiff topsheet than G1 will be easier to handle in opening shots including flicks and open game, due to a plus in catapult.
You might then also find that this plus of catapult makes the short game and push game more difficult.

Every strength comes with a weakness, and you´ll have to make some compromise. Or start exercising flicks even more ;)
 
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My biggest gripe with Fastarc G-1: is non-linear.
Depending on how much the sponge and topsheet is engaged, and I'm referring to small variations, it can yield different results. From pushing into the net to over the table is just a little bit. When driving I put a lot of balls into net, hitting a little bit harder the ball goes over the table. On loops the harder I hit the higher the throw is.
Tested on multiple blades, same result.
Switched to MX-S, better in pretty much all aspects, except weight.

Considering the different opinions on forums is better to try than ask others. I'm sure there are newer rubbers better than G-1 or MX-S.
 
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My biggest gripe with Fastarc G-1: is non-linear.
Depending on how much the sponge and topsheet is engaged, and I'm referring to small variations, it can yield different results. From pushing into the net to over the table is just a little bit. When driving I put a lot of balls into net, hitting a little bit harder the ball goes over the table. On loops the harder I hit the higher the throw is.
Tested on multiple blades, same result.
Switched to MX-S, better in pretty much all aspects, except weight.

Considering the different opinions on forums is better to try than ask others. I'm sure there are newer rubbers better than G-1 or MX-S.

I'm trying out C-1 and, at first glance, it behaves much more linear than G-1 that I tried briefly a while back. C-1 weighs slightly less than G-1.
 
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My biggest gripe with Fastarc G-1: is non-linear.
Depending on how much the sponge and topsheet is engaged, and I'm referring to small variations, it can yield different results. From pushing into the net to over the table is just a little bit. When driving I put a lot of balls into net, hitting a little bit harder the ball goes over the table. On loops the harder I hit the higher the throw is.
Tested on multiple blades, same result.
Switched to MX-S, better in pretty much all aspects, except weight.

Considering the different opinions on forums is better to try than ask others. I'm sure there are newer rubbers better than G-1 or MX-S.

Hi, may I ask you what blade do you use? Perhaps it plays a role in a non-linear feeling of G-1. I used G-1 on various all-wood blades, and I find it very much linear. More than MX-S, for instance.
 
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I've used a pair of G-1 on:
Nittaku Violoncello - 5 plies
Galaxy W2 - outer carbon
Stiga V1 - outer carbon
Stiga Allround Evolution - 5 plies
Dawei Power Carbon - Hurricane King 3 clone, inner carbon
OSP Virtuoso - 5 plies
OSP Musko - 7 plies
Maybe were more, but this is what I recall for the moment.

During an amateur tourney I switched from G-1 to MX-P and MX-S and I had more control with the latter against unknown players. For example serve returns were easier. The downside with MX-* is the weight.
 
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Has anyone tried Rakza 7 ? Ist it possible to Flick with more margin for error compared to G1 while being able to keep pushes short and low as easy as with G1?

I'm using Rakza 7 ‘Soft’ on Sweden Extra. I find it very easy to flick. Maybe just need to flick and play backhand faster if you're using Rakza 7.

 
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