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IB66
10-21-2020, 09:13 PM
Hi,

Moving on from a previous thread ‘ Boosting H3 Neo National’ , the last post I made on that thread was to try boosting 2 sheets of rubber in slightly different ways and see what happens.
How much the sponge expands, and what difference is found in letting the doming subside before applying coats of booster and just applying booster at regular 24hr intervals regardless of the doming. Glue when highly domed etc.

So the rubber I chose is Friendship RITC 729,

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I bought the sheets from Tabletennis11, cost is €9.90 plus tax per sheet, which is a bargain!!!
Sheets felt tacky, and the sponge is fairly hard as a typical Chinese rubber should be!!
i don’t think this rubber is factory tuned??

Both sheets were measured before 1 thin coat glue (sealer) was applied.

Red sheet 164 x 167 mm,
This sheet will be allowed to have any doming flattened out, before the next coat of booster is applied. The sheet will also be left to allow the doming to subside before it is glued to the blade.

Black sheet 164 x 165 mm,
This sheet will have a coat of booster applied every 24 hrs regardless of any doming

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As can been seen there is a slight curl to both rubbers straight out of the pack, possibly due to how it has been stored ? The curling is in the opposite way to what we would expect to see after boosting. After the protective film was removed the curling started to reduce straight away.

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Both sheets flattened out completely after the thin coat of glue and 1st coat of Seamoon booster was applied.
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So I’m going to apply 3 coats of booster in total. ( this could cause an issue with the black sheet if it domes heavily after the 1st couple of coats of booster, we’ll see how it goes.)

Hopefully the Black sheet will be on the blade after about 72 hrs ( 0 hr = coat 1, 24 hrs = coat 2, 48 hrs = coat 3, let dry, 72hrs glue on blade.
I have also got some DHS No15 glue, which is meant to be very strong, and will hopefully cope with the doming in conjunction with some weight compression !!!

The Red sheet could be a completely different kettle of fish!! This will depend on how the rubber domes up nd how long it takes the doming to go down!!!!

I’ll take a couple of photos in the morning and post, so we can see how the initial reaction to the booster is taking effect. Measurements will be taken every 24hrs, before the next coat of booster is applied.

I don’t have a Durometer to check the sponge hardness and see how this is effected by the boosting process.

cheers,

yogi_bear
10-21-2020, 09:30 PM
Some reduction of softness happens at 2nd layer coating. Maybe a degree or 2.

IB66
10-22-2020, 04:52 AM
Some reduction of softness happens at 2nd layer coating. Maybe a degree or 2.

Cheers Yogi.

IB66
10-22-2020, 04:58 AM
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Both rubbers are now beginning to show signs that the booster is starting to take effect, centre of sheet is just starting to lift!!

IB66
10-22-2020, 05:34 PM
No change since this morning!!!

2nd coat of booster applied this evening to both sheets,

Both sheets remeasured,
Red sheet 164 (+0mm) x 167mm (+0mm)
Black sheet 164 (+0mm) x 165 mm (+0mm)

gekogark1212
10-22-2020, 10:46 PM
So keen to see the results :)

IB66
10-23-2020, 02:27 PM
23/10/20 06.00 - both sheets are still not doming as much as I thought they would.
rubber s feeling softer, when put in a domed position, they hold for a while but gradually slip down.

remeasured

Red sheet - 166 (+2mm) x 169mm (+2mm) - overall now +2mm and +2mm bigger
Black sheet - 166 (+2mm) x 167.5m (+1.5mm) - overall now +2 and +1.5mm bigger

so sheets are expanding slightly in size but not doming and retaining the dome.

IB66
10-23-2020, 07:16 PM
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Yeh!!!! 3rd coat of Seamoon has done it!!! Doming nicely, rubber feels softer than when straight out of the pack.

So tomorrow I’ll measure the black sheet 1 last time, then glue onto a blade with the doming still high.
Red sheet, will be left to go down and measured every 24hrs then finally glued to the blade.

Tango K
10-23-2020, 09:32 PM
New episode everyday! Next month you can charge subscription rather than give “free trial”.
this is thrilling

IB66
10-23-2020, 09:56 PM
New episode everyday! Next month you can charge subscription rather than give “free trial”.
this is thrilling

Yeah, it’s almost as good as watching paint (Booster) dry!!!!!

IB66
10-24-2020, 06:54 AM
Re measured both sheets, they are now both 3mm bigger for both measurements taken.
Red -
out of pack 164 x 167, now 167 x 170mm
Black -
out of pack 164 x 165, now 167 x 168mm

standard expansion across the sheet.

Gluing Black sheet this afternoon.

igorponger
10-24-2020, 12:22 PM
@IB66
HELPERS WANTED !!

Dear Colleague,
Please take our best compliments on the researching works of yours. Your notable passion for making experiments on table tennis rubbers is appreciated very much, indeed.
Hereby we'd ask you for some specific investigations on the YINHE Big Dipper #49-007 rubber sheet. We strongly suspect Yinhe using a prohibited version of topsheet having two layers of rubber material combined one onto another. Could you provide some good evidence to us?

Thank you a lot in advance

Igor Novick
International Racket Control Staff

Kuba Hajto
10-24-2020, 02:34 PM
@IB66
HELPERS WANTED !!

Dear Colleague,
Please take our best compliments on the researching works of yours. Your notable passion for making experiments on table tennis rubbers is appreciated very much, indeed.
Hereby we'd ask you for some specific investigations on the YINHE Big Dipper #49-007 rubber sheet. We strongly suspect Yinhe using a prohibited version of topsheet having two layers of rubber material combined one onto another. Could you provide some good evidence to us?

Thank you a lot in advance

Igor Novick
International Racket Control Staff

Sry for cutting into the discussion. I had no evidence for Big Dipper, but that was the case. I wore the sticky surface of my Jupiter 2 sheet that separation between those two layers you are talking about was visible.

IB66
10-24-2020, 06:57 PM
I actually have a sheet of Big Dipper !! Taken off a blade about 16 months ago. It’s been very lonely.
However I don’t have a clue how to try and separate 2 layers of rubber that may have been combined in a top sheet!!!
You can see it’s evident displeasure of being reduced to the ‘old has been’ box, which is where it’s going to stay !!:p:p:rolleyes:
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IB66
10-24-2020, 07:50 PM
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Blade is an old Tamca 5000, 2 layers of glue on blade and sponge.

Black sheet done!!

Unfortunately I now have to wait for the Red sheet to flatten out, which could be quite a while!!!!

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lodro
10-24-2020, 08:20 PM
I will be keeping an eye out if the glue is keeping the black rubber on the blade.
Thanks for sharing your experiment

IB66
10-24-2020, 08:56 PM
I will be keeping an eye out if the glue is keeping the black rubber on the blade.
Thanks for sharing your experiment

Hi,
DHS No15 is designed for gluing DHS and other Chinese rubbers, which are generally always boosted
This glue can be used if the rubbers are glued while still domed or left to go down. It’s a strong glue.
I weighted the blade down for about 10 minutes then cut the rubber. No separation of rubber from blade usually the rubber will ‘peel’ itself off early doors, before the glue has ‘gone off’.
if the boost was higher, I would have weighted down for longer to allow the glue to go off for longer.
Revoultion have a racket clamp designed for this reason. May be worth getting.

to be honest, the doming was / is, what I would class as medium strength.

My first attempt at boosting was a sheet of DHS H3 (std sheet)
with 3 layers of Falco LTB this resulted in a high strength doming, probably over boosted. Now this was left for 7 - 10 days and the doming didn’t go down!! So I just glued it using BTY chack glue, which just wasn’t up for the job!!
it peeled within 2 minutes !!
So I cleaned off the glue from the blade and gave it a light sand, removed the glue from the sponge, applied 2 layers of Chack to blade and sponge, re glued and just weighted down the bat with about 5 or 6 heavy books and a 2ltr bottle full of vegetable oil !!! Then left it where it was for 24 hrs !!!
Cut the rubber the following day, this was in early April during start of Lockdown here, the rubber is still in good shape and hasn’t peeled off, even though it was extremely springy!!

lodro
10-25-2020, 06:21 AM
Hi,
DHS No15 is designed for gluing DHS and other Chinese rubbers, which are generally always boosted
This glue can be used if the rubbers are glued while still domed or left to go down. It’s a strong glue.
I weighted the blade down for about 10 minutes then cut the rubber. No separation of rubber from blade usually the rubber will ‘peel’ itself off early doors, before the glue has ‘gone off’.
if the boost was higher, I would have weighted down for longer to allow the glue to go off for longer.
Revoultion have a racket clamp designed for this reason. May be worth getting.

to be honest, the doming was / is, what I would class as medium strength.

My first attempt at boosting was a sheet of DHS H3 (std sheet)
with 3 layers of Falco LTB this resulted in a high strength doming, probably over boosted. Now this was left for 7 - 10 days and the doming didn’t go down!! So I just glued it using BTY chack glue, which just wasn’t up for the job!!
it peeled within 2 minutes !!
So I cleaned off the glue from the blade and gave it a light sand, removed the glue from the sponge, applied 2 layers of Chack to blade and sponge, re glued and just weighted down the bat with about 5 or 6 heavy books and a 2ltr bottle full of vegetable oil !!! Then left it where it was for 24 hrs !!!
Cut the rubber the following day, this was in early April during start of Lockdown here, the rubber is still in good shape and hasn’t peeled off, even though it was extremely springy!!


Thank you kindly for this information. After using XVT sheets in the last couple of years i have recently started to use Revolution 3 glue and i am happy with it. I did not buy the clamp they sell but made myself a contraption that works equally well. I have never done any boosting of rubbers because i could not see the use of it. I am quite a mediocre player so have not had the need of getting top -performance out of my equipment. However, i am a bit of a EJ so might try boosting soon : "just because I can"" ;););)

IB66
10-25-2020, 07:25 AM
Thank you kindly for this information. After using XVT sheets in the last couple of years i have recently started to use Revolution 3 glue and i am happy with it. I did not buy the clamp they sell but made myself a contraption that works equally well. I have never done any boosting of rubbers because i could not see the use of it. I am quite a mediocre player so have not had the need of getting top -performance out of my equipment. However, i am a bit of a EJ so might try boosting soon : "just because I can"" ;););)

Same here, Revo glue is very good, you can get it in different viscosities as well.

if you are trying for the first time to boost, and are a bit of an EJ like me, then get a couple of cheap blades to use for testing, you can then put boosted ( differing number of coats) and un-boosted sheets on the same blade to get a direct comparison to how different they feel and play. This will give you an idea of what will happen when you boost a more expensive rubber, if you choose to!!!
Try with a cheap rubber as well, like the one I’m using in the test.
Also get a couple of makes of booster, it seams one may work better than the other on certain sponges.

for €10 the rubber I chose, so far looks to be great value, the quality looks good, it’s reasonably tacky and I think it will produce good spin levels, may be a little slow, but we’ll see

I just think this is FUN!! For me, it brings an extra dimension to Table Tennis!!!

IB66
10-25-2020, 07:49 AM
Red sheet measured this morning still the same at 167 x 170mm
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doming is starting to become less ‘stiff’ and if you push the dome down it now slips down rather than springing back.

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now the booster coats are dry, the ‘true’ doming can be seen by laying the sheet on the sponge rather than the rubber.
The reason I say ‘True’ doming is because you can stand the sheet like an arch and move the sides touching the surface and it usually stays put, when you lay it as above, then the curl present is more unnaturally natural !!!!!
The reason we tend to stand like an arch is because the sponge is wet at first, and this is the easiest way of keeping the whole sheet clean !!!
So when the sheet has laid flat when laid on the sponge, no curling, that’s when it will be glued.

Tango K
10-25-2020, 09:04 AM
I boost without glue so I’ll just press the sheet by a book after it can be reasonably flattened without much force. But this is understandably un experiment so u want it to be natural but it’s gonna take really long.

IB66
10-25-2020, 09:18 AM
I boost without glue so I’ll just press the sheet by a book after it can be reasonably flattened without much force. But this is understandably un experiment so u want it to be natural but it’s gonna take really long.

that’s what this thread is really about!!, a lot of people say let the doming go down before gluing, which I think reduces the tensioning effect on the top sheet, specially if the sheet size returns to pre boosted size.
and it just takes too long!!!! Glue it when domed !!!

IB66
10-25-2020, 09:21 AM
https://youtu.be/47tKzTKXjxc

bounce test.

with protection sheet over, the bounce is similar to ESN type rubber/sponge combo. Without protection sheet, the typically Chinese tacky top sheet kicks in and makes the rubber seem dead.

lodro
10-25-2020, 09:34 AM
Revo glue is very good, you can get it in different viscosities as well.

Yep, I got the medium one and thin it with the appropriate mix of Ammonia.
The manufacturers were very helpful with info.
I am thinning it mainly because medium viscosity is not self-leveling anymore, Maybe an old batch, it was cheap from Tabletennis 11

IB66
10-26-2020, 05:58 AM
Red sheet still curling !!! Surprise surprise, no change in size.

Tango K
10-26-2020, 09:52 AM
Not very surprising for me. It’ll take a week at least if you want it to be completely natural. Or maybe never :cool:

IB66
10-27-2020, 12:29 AM
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curling is now going down.
Size remains the same 167 x 170mm

i’ll see if it flattens some more by Tuesday evening, likely to be glued on Wednesday !!

interesting that even though the doming/curling has reduced the sheet size has remained the same as at max doming.

So has the booster soaked thru the sponge and also softened up the rubber, allowing it to stretch and increase in size ? Which happens a lot slower than the the initial reaction with the booster and sponge?
has any tension in the rubber been lost?? When compared to the sheet glued earlier.

black sheet showing no signs of de-bonding from blade.
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Tango K
10-27-2020, 11:05 PM
It happens a lot to me. I always have to trim the rubbers whenever I reboost. The only exception is MX-P, which shrinks like crazy! It’s probably one of reason why the rubber gets mushier and softer and mushier and softer after continuous reboosting.

IB66
10-27-2020, 11:07 PM
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Red sheet has flattened out and been glued on !!!
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hopefully the pimple structure can be seen on the Red rubber, can just be made out on the Black sheet.

couple of points to note -
a) slightly less tackiness
b) a) has resulted in a change in bounce test, ball now bounces more due to loss of tackiness.
ball pick up test, ball is held up for far less time, around 50% less.

now these rubbers have not been used , I have experienced the loss of tackiness with other un-boosted and boosted Chinese rubbers, but generally after a period of time, usually a couple of weeks, sometimes less but generally after at least 4 hrs of playing time. No strict rule though.

However I feel that the loss of tackiness maybe down to the booster soaking through the sponge and interacting with the rubber. ?? The rubbers DO NOT feel ‘dead’ but the 1st bounce test with the black rubber was typical of a tacky Chinese rubber, now both Black and Red are bouncier!!

IB66
10-27-2020, 11:13 PM
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Better shot of pimple structure, maybe!!

Tango K
10-28-2020, 10:49 AM
However I feel that the loss of tackiness maybe down to the booster soaking through the sponge and interacting with the rubber. ?? The rubbers DO NOT feel ‘dead’ but the 1st bounce test with the black rubber was typical of a tacky Chinese rubber, now both Black and Red are bouncier!!

More likely because they’ve been in the open air for a couple of days so the tack dries out a bit. This happens to my bats that I leave out for shadow practising.

suds79
10-28-2020, 01:17 PM
More likely because they’ve been in the open air for a couple of days so the tack dries out a bit. This happens to my bats that I leave out for shadow practising.

I agree. While I like tacky rubbers, so long as the grip is there, I don't fret too much over it as I've never had a 729 rubber stay nearly as tacky after X period of time as compared to when you first pull off that sticky sheet. I actually think 729 rubbers are not all that tacky.

Now any version of hurricane 3 is a different story. IDK why that's different but I have year plus old versions of that stuff and it's still fairly tacky. Go figure.

I use Falco to boost and sometimes I do it. Sometimes I don't. I don't like how long I have to wait for the dome to gown down enough so the edges don't curl up anymore. That being said, softening these tacky hard rubbers to more tacky and say medium sponge feel is what I prefer. So I do like the difference boosting makes there.

lodro
10-28-2020, 07:45 PM
In the recent competition in China I observed Ma Long kept looking at his rubber , then in the break I saw him deal to the excessive tackiness by gently """tapping""" the rubber surface with the bunched up towel.

I do that now whenever i glue on a new H3 otherwise I can hardly play the darn thing , being a veteran with limited strength. (just another way of saying "old cripple" ;))

IB66
10-28-2020, 10:06 PM
Hi,

I used the set up this evening, on the TAMCA blade the rubbers were effortlessly fast !! Good bounce, but not a real catapult feeling.

I even found it pretty easy to chop against topspin, more controlled than the donic Allround Dotec blade with R48 (bh) and RakzaZ (fh) on it!!! ( That I used afterwards.)
The chops with the 729/TAMCA felt crisp and controlled. Back Spin was good / high spin

Top spin fh & bh was good, high spin and speed, good forward kick. Speed is down to the blade really.
would the friendship 729 be as fast as R48 or RakzaZ on the TAMCA, Of course not, but for myself the 729 would be far more playable !!! The 729/TAMCA is faster than the All round Donic Applegren Dotec with the R48 and RazkaZ on it.
What I did notice that when I hit faster the ball started to go long, but this is down to my technique really !!!

Serving - initial serves, 1st 10 or so were in the net!! Due to the quickness of the blade, once I was accustomed to the speed, the serves were very good, high spin levels.

So for a rubber that costs about €10 the performance is very good, the boosting has made it easier to play and combined with a very fast blade it becomes a ‘nasty’ weapon!!!

The difference in gluing times, ie when domed and after doming has gone down, doesn’t seem to have made any difference to how both the sheets actually played or felt, both were used on FH/BH equally.

But for reducing the boosting procedure duration, I would go for gluing when curled/domed [maybe not if over boosted and the sheet is a cylinder!!!)
Get some good strong glue like Revolution no3 or DHS 15 and use a book or piece of ply bigger than the blade with a heavy weight on it to act as a press. This should deal with any curling, some trial and error is involved as well, some blades have very smooth surfaces, and could be factory treated with a sealer which can be difficult for glues to stick to, a light rub down helps to stop this.

Hopefully you’ll have some fun boosting rubbers, next for me, is to try boosting a ESN type rubber with high catapult and see what happens - total mush?? Better speed? Better feel?

Tango K
10-29-2020, 11:55 AM
The difference in gluing times, ie when domed and after doming has gone down, doesn’t seem to have made any difference to how both the sheets actually played or felt, both were used on FH/BH equally.

But for reducing the boosting procedure duration, I would go for gluing when curled/domed [maybe not if over boosted and the sheet is a cylinder!!!)


Ma Long may say otherwise. But I’m very happy with the conclusion. I usually wait for 24hr and then press the rubber for a few hours before glueing. It’s still much easier when the rubber is relatively flat. It’s all down to convenience.

Attitude
10-29-2020, 03:49 PM
In the recent competition in China I observed Ma Long kept looking at his rubber , then in the break I saw him deal to the excessive tackiness by gently """tapping""" the rubber surface with the bunched up towel.

I do that now whenever i glue on a new H3 otherwise I can hardly play the darn thing , being a veteran with limited strength. (just another way of saying "old cripple" ;))

He does that for quite some time now. I wouldnt guess he works "against" the tackiness with it but against any form of humidity on the rubber which comes from his breath or his sweat.
Either way, the tackiness helps usually to be able to perform their short game. And i highly doubt that Ma Long has any problem with hitting hard enough. Especially the way they hit, no tackiness in the world would slow down their shot^^

IB66
10-29-2020, 07:50 PM
I agree. While I like tacky rubbers, so long as the grip is there, I don't fret too much over it as I've never had a 729 rubber stay nearly as tacky after X period of time as compared to when you first pull off that sticky sheet. I actually think 729 rubbers are not all that tacky.

Now any version of hurricane 3 is a different story. IDK why that's different but I have year plus old versions of that stuff and it's still fairly tacky. Go figure.

I use Falco to boost and sometimes I do it. Sometimes I don't. I don't like how long I have to wait for the dome to gown down enough so the edges don't curl up anymore. That being said, softening these tacky hard rubbers to more tacky and say medium sponge feel is what I prefer. So I do like the difference boosting makes there.


Hi,

not so much any version of H3, H3 National blue sponge, I’ve had 2 sheets, boosted one, didn’t the other. But as far as tackiness is concerned neither had very high tackiness unlike the std sheet of H3 I have, which was very tacky, and 6 months later is still tackier than the Nat version!!

lodro
10-29-2020, 08:35 PM
I have no experience with National versions of H3 but my standard H3 rubbers are the tackiest rubbers I ever owned. Much tackier than Neo's.

lodro
10-29-2020, 08:40 PM
He does that for quite some time now. I wouldnt guess he works "against" the tackiness with it but against any form of humidity on the rubber which comes from his breath or his sweat.
Either way, the tackiness helps usually to be able to perform their short game. And i highly doubt that Ma Long has any problem with hitting hard enough. Especially the way they hit, no tackiness in the world would slow down their shot^^

You might be right my friend.
I have also seen players deliberately roll a handful of of new balls over new H3s, using the residual talcum powder on the balls to get rid of the initial stickiness. I am using the word stickiness deliberately here because I think there is a difference between the initial stickiness and the "nearly everlasting tackiness" of the standard H3

Tango K
11-02-2020, 10:43 AM
Hi,

not so much any version of H3, H3 National blue sponge, I’ve had 2 sheets, boosted one, didn’t the other. But as far as tackiness is concerned neither had very high tackiness unlike the std sheet of H3 I have, which was very tacky, and 6 months later is still tackier than the Nat version!!

I bet they filter the quality of glue treatment. If it’s perfect it goes to pro/nat. Too much, combine it with sub-par sponge and sell it as commercial. Too little, discard. :cool::cool::cool:

I boosted my 3 month old Rakza Z (50 degree) last week as it’s a little dead. Wow! I found the right combo. It’s now as soft and sensible as Fastarc G1 (47 degree) I used to play with, but with tackiness and low throw. I did the same for old G1, MX-P, MX-S before and they all felt very weird. So if you want to boost ESN, get the very hard (50 or above) version.

IB66
11-02-2020, 06:26 PM
I bet they filter the quality of glue treatment. If it’s perfect it goes to pro/nat. Too much, combine it with sub-par sponge and sell it as commercial. Too little, discard. :cool::cool::cool:

I boosted my 3 month old Rakza Z (50 degree) last week as it’s a little dead. Wow! I found the right combo. It’s now as soft and sensible as Fastarc G1 (47 degree) I used to play with, but with tackiness and low throw. I did the same for old G1, MX-P, MX-S before and they all felt very weird. So if you want to boost ESN, get the very hard (50 or above) version.

i have a sheet of RakzaZ as well, but only glued it about 2 weeks ago, so a while before it will need living up!! Also have a sheet of Nittaku PK50 which is around 50 degrees so that’s another alternative to try boosting!!
not sure about the XIOM Vega Asia DF sponge hardness, or Omega IV Euro? But these could also be a possibility.

lodro
11-02-2020, 09:50 PM
inspired by this thread, i bought a bottle of Johnson's baby oil .
I started with a pips out black friendship that i had pulled of one of my "hobby blades" . Often, when pulling off rubber they curl "the wrong way". This one came not only right , after 2 coats of Johnson it domed the good way, surprise surprise.

Next try with a 61 second Eagle with the same problem. after 2 coats this one came back to its natural flatness but no doming.

last one was a SUPER 999T nothing wrong with that one, just had it pulled of a blade 2 years ago. A well used rubber so i tried to see if i could make it a bit livelier as it was an H42.
YEP, 3 coats and the sponge is nice and soft and got a nice bounce.

Who would have thought ? ;)

IB66
11-03-2020, 09:58 PM
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XIOM OMEGA IV Europe, straight out of the packet, the left photo is ‘laying almost flat’ the sheet is very ‘floppy’ if you lift with 1 finger in the middle of the sheet it domes up and just about stays there when put down as shown in the RH photo, this rubber looks like it has been fairly heavily factory tuned.
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Andro Hexer Duro, again straight out of the package, slight curling/doming, won’t lay completely flat. So this rubber looks like there has been some factory tuning going on.
Now, this rubber is marketed as being very durable and having a longer life than the other Hexers.

we are told that factory tuning wears off over time. Maybe 3 months or so, maybe less.
Falco long term booster is supposed to last around 3 months, then you have to re-boost, and you will maybe get 3 boosts out of a rubber (boosting yourself 3 times on a new rubber that has NOT been factory tuned, or boosting yourself 2 times on a rubber that HAS been factory tuned?) so maybe 9 months then re-new rubber.

If the Hexer Duro has been factory tuned, then there should be a drop off in performance after a few months (same for the Omega IV Europe) So is this Hexer Duro really more durable? Or does it just drop off to a certain level and then maintain that level for longer?? Interesting!!!

I wonder if there are specific boosters for ESN rubbers? The ‘Factory tuners / boosters’ that are different to the well known Boosters associated with Chinese rubbers FLT, Seamoon etc
Do DHS, Friendship 729 use Seamoon/FLT ? Or products made by themselves, Seamoon is under Haifu’s banner.

It’s a shame that the manufacturers don’t actually market the tuners they use, mind you they don’t want that!!! They want you to buy a new rubber after 3 months because the performance has dropped off!!!
Another reason to try boosting ESN and BTY rubbers, apparently BTY have tuned versions of their rubbers available only in Japan!!?? Would be good if someone could confirm this is correct or not!!!

Tango K
11-03-2020, 11:10 PM
tt11’s Patrick mentioned something called limeone-based booster in this article, but stopped short of naming them https://blog.tabletennis11.com/to-boost-or-not-to-boost

I boosted with Tempo Long, just 1 thin layer. A slight problem is it’s actually quite difficult to boost very thin with ESN as the sponge is really like a dish-washer sponge :( , absorbing everything a lot and very fast.

Boosting drastically softens the rubber so yes. 3 times for 40 H3 and it feels like something else (still thoroughly playable but the feel is too far different). ESN, even the first reboost has made them a much softer version. Not sure if you can even make the 2nd. (Maybe it will affect less. It could be another experiment for you to try out :cool:)