Equipment TTD chat

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Hello

I started this thread for talking about equipment regarding table tennis in all areas, i am sure if i ask for specific i may open many threads, so this one is for saving many threads starting, and sometimes i have quick or simple questions that don't need to have their own threads, so here is the one, it can be general but focused on gear, not playing levels or tournaments events and such.

So, feel free to share if you interested in.
 
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And my first question is regarding the tables.

So, what is the top surface material is the TT tables made of mostly? and does it matter of different materials performance? and what is about thickness, i mean what is the minimum or optimum thickness that the table should be within?

I bought a cover for the table when they are folded standing, but i saw there are also covers for the table when they are in the playing mode non folding, so which one can you recommend as the one i saw can't be shipped to me and almost expensive?
 
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thickness is only important to get the right bounce. some 7/8" tables play better than other 1" tables. usually wood but not always. they will all perform differently. some are smoother so the ball doesn't react well when it spins into it, other's will allow the ball to do more off of it.
 
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thickness is only important to get the right bounce. some 7/8" tables play better than other 1" tables. usually wood but not always. they will all perform differently. some are smoother so the ball doesn't react well when it spins into it, other's will allow the ball to do more off of it.

So if the thickness is more about bouncing, then from my understanding and my bad fisiqes [Physics] knowledge isn't harder surface bouncing more? so what is the bouncing degree of the wood to let's say the metal [iron or steel, aluminium, ..etc] or even a glass? so you are saying that 7/8" should be minimum or 1"?

Also the surface texture or touch is a factor from your sentence, so better have some kind of friction very very tiny so to give a degree of spin for balls? smoother means non to very minimal friction.

It can be a long topic, because even wood itself has different quality or types, or that doesn't matter as long any wood to a certain thickness will be the same once it is manufactured to be uniform in texture and whatever surface performance?
 
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if you have a worn down table with no friction the ball won't act right when it hits the table. too hard and you'll be breaking balls. I'm saying there isn't a minimum. also depends on your price range and what kind of table you want. if you want a professional table of the best quality. copy the table used at a big event. if you want a table to use a robot with you probably won't need it that nice. if your playing level isn't too high you probably wouldn't notice the difference in different tables either. try getting the same kind that's used at your local club so you'll be used to the bounce when you go play there.
 
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if you have a worn down table with no friction the ball won't act right when it hits the table. too hard and you'll be breaking balls. I'm saying there isn't a minimum. also depends on your price range and what kind of table you want. if you want a professional table of the best quality. copy the table used at a big event. if you want a table to use a robot with you probably won't need it that nice. if your playing level isn't too high you probably wouldn't notice the difference in different tables either. try getting the same kind that's used at your local club so you'll be used to the bounce when you go play there.

I already bought one, but this one i will try to keep it indoor or inside my house all the time, and this may put me in difficult situation about inviting someone to the house for some reasons or issues, so that i am looking for another table that can be played outdoor.

And i was thinking about the materials because i want to know if i can build one and it may get cheaper a bit or similar to some affordable tables non pro.

I saw my table surface, and i see it as a wood or MDF treated material then underneath it is that kind of aluminium or chrome frames all around the edges beneath [60mm], the surface is 1" [~25mm], so if i may brought that wood plate in same dimension of this table [5' x 9' x 1"] and ask them to paint it and put that kind of protection layer. Instead, i may just go with that aluminium plate same dimensions and let's say 7/8" instead of 1" because it is maybe stronger than wood?

Ofcourse i won't make all these if the price isn't reasonable compared to the pre-made assembled or ready for assemble installation, at the end i really care to put the table outdoor where i have really big space yard of my house but not inside the house itself, and we have that bad weather so i don't want to risk my main purchased one for that.
 
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How to choose solid blade?
I means to choose a solid wood. Some pro players know how to choose a solid blade.
Most average lvl players don't know it. I want to know how to choose. Please guide me.

And what is with that solid blade do you really look for? solid you mean hard blade or solid as durable and strong or...?

Sometimes it is about the weight of the blade or the handle type, and sometimes it is the type of woods or whatever materials are made of that blade, so give us more details about that solid blade you are looking for.
 
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Last few months I played my friend national player's blade name Clipper wood. I have a Clipper wood too. But feeling different . Almost same weight. He told me that he selected a solid blade. This is what I mean.

From
From your post i believe the solid meaning is stiffness, did you ask him about stiffness?

As long the blades are the same and same materials and same weight then the difference is with stiffness, i will neglect the rubbers here because you mentioned the blade only, if you can check the stiffness of his and compare it to yours, don't tell me how because i don't know.

Another point is about the handle itself, maybe yours is different to his? anything else you found with his blade that is different than yours besides the rubber and the solid feeling? i mean by the physical look, did he manipulated his blade to give him that solid feeling?

Again, explain to me what is solid you mean, what is that feeling you think is different with solid?
 
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Yes. It' s stiffness. I can clearly feel the blade when hit the ball. My blade hasn't that feel. His blade is a commercial version not custom made.

Well, then i don't know how i can help you to find one, when you look at the blades options to buy look at the specifications and see if the stiffness number is high, somewhere in 7-8 range out of 10, you may find one that you like.

But if it is about feeling the blade when hitting the ball then i may have a different meaning or thinking about stiffness then, because if let's say comparing two of many blades i have i will take DHS W.H.III and BTY Primorac EX, the stiffness and hardness of that DHS is so high so i can't feel the blade when i hit the ball, while with Primorac EX it has lower stiffness and hardness and i can feel the blade completely when i hot the ball, so i hope i am not confused here about solid blade.
 
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It could be the material too, because my friend coach keep using all wood blade more than carbon one, and he keeps telling me that it gives him the feeling, maybe if i understand it then he means the feeling of the blade when hitting the ball, i need to have more or another all wood blade besides my Primorac to find out that theory.
 
says Spin and more spin.
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Last few months I played my friend national player's blade name Clipper wood. I have a Clipper wood too. But feeling different . Almost same weight. He told me that he selected a solid blade. This is what I mean.

@Brookerbig:

You have a Clipper. Your friend has a Clipper. It is Clipper Wood, the Classic version of the Clipper: IS THAT RIGHT? They are both the same blade? And the weight is almost the same?

What is the specific weight of yours and what is the specific weight of his? Did you put them on a scale or did you just estimate the weight by hand?

What handle is on your blade and your friend's blade? [Master (small flare), Legend (large flare), Winner (anatomic), or Peter (straight)]? Those are the standard Stiga handles.

What rubbers are you using. If you are using different rubbers from your friend or if his rubbers are significantly newer than yours, this will also affect what you feel.

One of the issues with Stiga blades is that if you had 10 Stiga Clippers, they all would feel different. To choose one that feels better to you, you may need to try several before you feel one you really like.

I had 3 Clippers. One felt amazing. One felt like nothing special. This happens with all companies and all blades. But, to me, it seems to happen more with blades from Stiga.

Often what pros do is try several before they choose one. It is not so easy for us regular people to do that. But the difference in feel between the two blades shouldn't be because one is stiffer than the other. Maybe just different batches of the same plies of wood. Or one laminated slightly better. Hard to tell.

Hope that information helps you out to some extent.


Sent from the Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
 
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What handle is on your blade and your friend's blade? [Master (small flare), Legend (large flare), Winner (anatomic), or Peter (straight)]? Those are the standard Stiga handles.

Sidebar: am i the only one who chuckled at the Stiga straight handle named 'Peter'?

if your playing level isn't too high you probably wouldn't notice the difference in different tables either.

Perhaps Shuki missed it or didn't recall ...
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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Sidebar: am i the only one who chuckled at the Stiga straight handle named 'Peter'?

It does show that the boss men at Stiga don't know American slang.

Can "Peter" have that same connotation in the U.K.?


Sent from the Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
 
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