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This evening will be the first test.Nice work MDP, these look really nice. When you're going to put them to the real test?
Does a multi layered handle makes a noticeable difference compared to a handle from one piece? What types of glue did you use?
I guess it must be really satisfying, playing with your own made blade.
That would be really cool, really wonder how they compare to the (sometimes overpriced) factory made blades.I want Dan to review these!!!
yes usually you have to change the direction on each layer of ply to achieve good bound and better stiffness by 90 degrees. but in some cases you do not have to ... it depends on the current composition.bobpuls, I have some more questions:
You said you preglued three ply's of popular veneer. I was wondering how that's usually done. The directions of the grains of the tree ply's are all the same? Or the second ply is glued with the grains perpendicular to the first ply's grains?
Different types of glue can affect the play characteristics of the blade?
Did you ever had warping with one of your blades?
Despite I started to play table tennis just a short time ago, it feels pretty tempting to try to make my own blade. I already have most of the tools that you use, but apparently there's still quite a bit of research to be done.
Yes i like them keep continuing... however the birch is better to be used as second ply ...for the top is it a little bit crisp. But some people like it this way.Here are my newest blades. They still need some finishing work, but I thought I'd share them with you guys already.
The 2 blades are like 2 brothers, similar in most aspects but slight differences in construction. One has slightly thicker core and the other has slightly thicker outer veneers. I allso tried 2 different glues.
After the ball bounce test, the sound is high pitch, so I believe they will be rather fast.
yes usually you have to change the direction on each layer of ply to achieve good bound and better stiffness by 90 degrees. but in some cases you do not have to ... it depends on the current composition.
And yes each type ow glue is affecting playing characteristics.
No i did not have warping of my blades, but i have some issues with carbon with balsa .
.... Do not be worry and try to make one blade of your own ... you will find with time the best combinations of the wood to achieve the desired speed or feeling.
I wish you luck.
Interesting to see, bobpuls.
To stitch the two core plies together, you use the same glue as for stitching the veneer (what kind of waterbased glue you're using)?
Did you already finish the whole blade or you just completed the gluing process?
i`m using wood glue (water based ) for dynamic connections (like rocking chair or etc. ) the brand is irrelevant ..because in each country it is different ...
But i`m using this one :Rakoll Express 25 Plus
I just completed the gluing process ... i`m now creating multiple blades .. so first gluing them all and them cutting them all.
Here is first video of series
Make your own blade at home.
update:
ok for this compositions i have used :
first ply it was actually already preglued 3 ply`s veneers of poplar 0.8mm
second was the core 4mm balsa standard weight
then carbon layer
and the final it was mahogany ply 0.6 mm
the white/yelow glue is D2 wood glue (water base ) for dynamic connections (like rocking chair or etc. ) which is better for keeping the wood dynamic characteristics
the second transparent glue is epoxy glue ....
this is actually second version of the blade ... before it was used 6mm light balsa core which was by the customer reviewed ass little bit small response wood. so he decide this 4mm change .
one think you have to count in more layers blade which are glued with water based glue ... the wood get wet , soft and it starts to curling after a while .... so be careful
before you are applying the final pressure.
Ok here is the second part ... Cutting
I was using Makita 3709 Trimmer with home made simple table ....
Please if you will try to cut it by your self ... feed the router counter clockwise like i have started ...
do not feed it clock wise (like i have ) because if you not hold it hard enough the bit will "eat it" and you will destroy the blade and you can loose some of your fingers or other injury can happen .
As you can see the hardest part is to remove protective sheet from the double sided duct tape... ;-)
video is 1.5 time faster then original time
And i forgot to show you how to remove the template .... do not try to tear it from the blade ... just cut the duck tape in the middle with knife and then with fingers friction movement get rid of the duck tape ... then just sanding of the edges ... and it is done and ready for next step.
And do not do it in closed room .. as you can see it is very dusty .... i have to do it because outside was raining and customer is not patient enough ...
I forgot to mention the templates .... I drew the templates in ilustrator and exported it into .DXF and .DWG files .. then i have them watercut for 13 Euro ... into 1 cm komatex . the handle has separated template ... which is at the front and the end larger ....
Hope you like it
update 3
here are the final steps to finish the blade...
update ...
gluing of another blade with carbon and off + speed