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  1. Spitfire is offline
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    #1

    How to Use Waterbased Glues

    Ive Just got my new batch of Rubbers and Brought a Pot of Stiga Syncro BTG Glue.

    On the Tin it says apply the glue to both the sponge and the Blade

    Wait for Approx 4-8 Minutes Until its Transparent.

    After 8 minutes it was no where near Transparent

    How Long does it normally Take?
    Last edited by Spitfire; 07-28-2011 at 03:21 PM.

  2. dici is offline
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    #2
    Usually that means that you apply too much glue on both rubber and sponge. You just need a very thin layer of glue. But for this case, just wait more longer, like 30mins. Else, you can use hair dryer and switch between low and high heat to speed the process up.

  3. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #3
    I have to confess, I hate the water based glues. I just use regular old Rubber Cement. I get it from an art supply store. I think I pay about $6.00 for 16oz of Best Test Rubber Cement. At paddlepalace.com a 150 ml can of Stiga Syncro BTG Glue costs $26.00 ($25.95). 150 ml is more than 5 oz and less than 6 oz. For $20.00 less I am getting more than twice as much glue and I like the Best Test Rubber Cement better than any water based glue I have used.

    Once the glue has dried, there are no longer any VOCs in it and the glue is then legit for tournaments. It is not speed glue. And I do not reglue over and over. I put my rubbers on my blade and leave them until there is a reason to do something with them.

    But since Stiga Syncro BTG Glue is water based, the glue is going to take longer to dry if it is hot and humid. So the might also be a factor. But dici's advice of using a hair dryer if you feel it is taking too long for the glue to dry, is great advice.
    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
    Spin is Everything

  4. WiWa is offline
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    #4
    @Carl

    Does that work fine? Does it not take wood from the blade when u take the rubber off? And do u still vanish the blade or not? I don't like water based glue either cause it is just not sticky enough. If this cement thing works as good as the old glue, I think I'll give it a try. U use the brush from the old glue cans to apply it? Or does it come with a brush?

    A lot of questions, looking forward to ur response :P

  5. YosuaYosan is offline
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    Mar 2011
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    #5
    100% with Carl
    Thats what exactly I did.

    Watch out some rubber cement dries way fast..
    GFoT |Blade : Timo Boll ALC • FH : DHS Hurricane 3 Provincial MAX • BH : Tenergy 64 MAX
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  6. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by WiWa
    @Carl

    Does that work fine? Does it not take wood from the blade when u take the rubber off? And do u still vanish the blade or not? I don't like water based glue either cause it is just not sticky enough. If this cement thing works as good as the old glue, I think I'll give it a try. U use the brush from the old glue cans to apply it? Or does it come with a brush?

    A lot of questions, looking forward to ur response :P
    Rubber Cement is what the old regular glue actually was. All the old regular clue was just rubber cement with a fancy label from the Table Tennis companies. All you had to do was look at the chemical ingredients to see that. I like finishing my blades. I like the way they play after they are finished but rubber cement allows you to take the rubber off much more easily than the water based glues. It really is just liquid rubber. When the solvents dry it is a thin film of clear rubber. I am not sure why they call it rubber cement. Not very cement-like. It holds the sponge on, and you can take it off more than easily enough. If the rubber has been on for a really long time (a few years), it is harder to take off.

    The 8 size of Best Test Rubber Cement comes with a brush. The 16, 32, and Gallon size (yikes, that is a lot of glue), are for refilling a pre-existing jar. I have a nice glass jar that I keep it in, that has a really good quality brush. Better than you would get from any can of glue. But I have a friend who just puts it in an old mayonnaise jar (air tight seal so the glue does not dry over time) and uses a paint brush that is the right size and good quality (from the art supply store, also better than what the cans have). In retrospect, I like his method better because he is not pulling the brush out of the jar, which means the glue is only on the bristles of the brush not on the stem.

    I got the idea because that is one of the things they use at the club I play at. They also use water based glue and they still have Haifu Speed Glue. The Best Test seems to work the best to me unless you want the speed glue effect.
    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
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  7. WiWa is offline
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    #7
    @Carl
    Thanks a lot for the explanation. I am content with the 'built-in' glue effect of my current rubbers, so I guess I should give it a shot. When I googled it I only got American sites that sell it though, so I think if I like it I should bulk-order it :P Anyway I'll try some European art stores, thanks again for the idea. I hope this will solve my post-glue-ban glueing problem

  8. Spitfire is offline
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    #8
    Thanks Guys for your advise

  9. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by WiWa
    @Carl
    Thanks a lot for the explanation. I am content with the 'built-in' glue effect of my current rubbers, so I guess I should give it a shot. When I googled it I only got American sites that sell it though, so I think if I like it I should bulk-order it :P Anyway I'll try some European art stores, thanks again for the idea. I hope this will solve my post-glue-ban glueing problem
    If the brand Best Test is not in Europe just look for rubber cement at any art supply store. They will have some version of the same basic thing. The main ingredient reads: "N-HEPTANE, NATURAL RUBBER LATEX. I have also seen brands that call it Paper Cement instead of Rubber Cement. There is a version by Elmers as well and it is the same chemical and the same thing.
    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
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  10. WiWa is offline
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    #10
    Ohh ok so it is kinda common in art supply stores. I'll take a better look at some of those then, thanks again!

  11. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #11
    Yep. It is something artists use for a lot of things because it bonds nicely and holds, but if you need to take what you have glued off, you can do it without destroying your art. Just like how you can glue the rubbers on to the blade and then take them off.
    Last edited by UpSideDownCarl; 07-30-2011 at 04:16 AM. Reason: wording
    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
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  12. WiWa is offline
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    #12
    I find a lot of photo glue that is called rubbercement, but it comes in very small amounts xD. U think that is the same thing?

    I mean this one: http://www.collall.nl/en/products/gl...ue/photo-glue/
    Last edited by WiWa; 08-08-2011 at 08:42 AM.

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