Another interesting thing is , most of the blades in the list you gave are very cheap , and some like the violin are expensive , so does that mean that if i would go for the expensive one i would be "future safe" and i can play with it for several years without the need to switch it ?
Or maybe the approach should be a cheap blade for half a year or so and than pick an expensive one when i get the technique better ?
Equipment info:
A lot of the time players who don't really know how equipment work think more expensive is better and more expensive will save you more money in the long run.
This just isn't actually how table tennis equipment works. Let's see if I can explain this.
There is the TT company marketing machines that do a great job of figuring out how to get mid-level players to buy blades that cost $100.00-$400.00 when the blade they are getting is absolutely a hinderance to the player's development.
Then there are the people who are simply normal people and think of table tennis like any other sport. A better tennis racket is usually more expensive than a junkie one. But in tennis, you are never better off with a junkie racket. And in table tennis, a lot of the less expensive blades are simply blades that are simple. And most of the blades that cost $300.00-$400.00 cost $5.00 to make instead of $2.00 but what makes them $3.00 more expensive to make does not actually make them better.
Then there is the issue that, in table tennis, until your spin and shot quality are at a certain level, what is best for helping your technique improve is most of the blades on that list.
What helps you develop and improve your technique in a blade when your spin generation and shot quality are below a semi-pro level?????
A 5 ply, all wood, thin flexible blade with a top ply that isn't too hard, that gives you a lot of feedback so it is easier to feel the ball on the blade face, that is in the All+/Off- speed range?
Why, all wood helps you feel and learn to spin better. Thin flexible blades have more dwell time which helps you spin the ball better. A soft or semi-soft outer ply increases dwell time, helps you grab the ball more fully and helps you feel the touch and contact for spinning the ball better.
One of the things that is hardest to understand is that, in many ways, these kinds of blades may not feel as good as a flashy, more expensive blade. The sweetspot will be smaller. The speed will be slower. When your contact is not so good, it will feel BAD. When your contact us good, it will feel good. Interestingly, this is part of what makes these blades help you refine your technique. And most of how this happens is on a subcortical level (below the level of conscious thought). You feel bad contact. You don't like it. You feel good contact, you like it. Without realizing it, your quality of contact and level of spin, and power improves.
Another thing these blades do that is also. It entirely on a conscious level is, they are slower so they make you work a little harder. You have to time your hips, legs and weight transfer better or you get a weaker shot. A faster blade does more for you so your technique does not have to be as good. And you won't realize your contact isn't as good and that your stroke isn't that good because the blade's speed allows shots that are not technically proficient to seem as though they are because of the results.
I have a few friends who are pro tennis players who also play TT. I am often talking about one who is a lefty. This guy is different. He is a righty. He is about 2300 USATT and he uses a Stiga Allround Classic. Now that is one of the slowest blades I have ever used for more than a few hits. But this guy's stroke technique is so good, so powerful, that he can hit balls as hard, fast and spinny as any pro TT player with a carbon blade.
Why is he not higher level? Because he does not read and respond to spin at a high enough level. But it is not the quality of his strokes and his body mechanics. And his TENNIS strokes are obviously tennis strokes. But is table tennis strokes are real table tennis strokes or he could not be the level he is.
Anyway, even the stiffer 7 ply wood blades block some feeling and the stiffness which allows you to transfer more power into the ball also requires a higher level of precision.
So why would the Acoustic, the Violin, the Virtuoso Off- and Plus cost so much more and not really perform that differently? Craftsmanship or marketing depending on how you look at it. Nittaku claims the Acoustic and Violin are glued with the same process used in gluing musical instruments like a violin. OSP makes their blades by hand customed to order.
They are fancier. But not necessarily better. And when you are at the stage where you could use any blade, fast or slow, you will hopefully know enough about equipment and what you want to choose for yourself.
So, any of those blades on my list would likely be good for you.
The fastest blades on that list, in no particular order, are:
1) Nitakku Acoustic
2)OSP Virtuoso Plus
3) Butterfly Petr Korbel
4) Tibhar Status Power Wood
The ones that are not as fast have a real usefulness though in helping you develop your technique.
Hope this info helps.
With these blades you could choose harder rubbers than I suggested like:
Butterfly Tenergy 05
Xiom Omega V Pro
Yasaka Rakza 7
Joola Rhyzm
But soft rubbers have a real value too.
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