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  1. shinhyun is offline
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    #1

    After Boosting Hurricane 3 neo

    Hi everyone, I have boosted a sheet of H3neo with 4 layers of Falcon long : the results were Amazing but :
    The rubber sheet has retracted pretty fast during these days (within 7 days) the edge tended to be unglued which has unbalanced the weight of the blade (noticeable), the bounciness of the rubber also has changed.
    So I decided to remove the rubber but while removing the sheet cracks (only sponge) (nb : I glued it with neottec water based glue).

    Well, that is my first experiance of Boosting rubber. Am I doing wrong? Do you have this problem? How can I do to maintain the rubber tense for a longer time? How long the rubber keep his first boosted property ?

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  2. AgavE is offline
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    #2
    describe the procedure of boosting the rubber.
    how long it takes with first lay, second, third?
    why 4 layers? usually 3 layers good enough.
    PS: H3Neo commercial - cheap rubber, with low characteristics of quality of materials. H3Neo Provincial - would be much better.

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    Suga D


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    #3
    4 layers of flaco long? You're crazy.

    Based on my experience with DHS rubbers bubbling, I don't know how your topsheet hasn't come completely off the sponge by now.

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  4. tikitiki is offline
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    #4
    if sponge crack, you glued too hard.
    what glue did you use

  5. shinhyun is offline
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    #5
    Well, there is the real story of this rubber :
    1 layer of neottec glue, wait for dry
    1 layer of booster
    wait for 12h : the rubber curve a little bit
    1 layer of booster
    wait for 12h : the rubber was very curved
    wait for 3 days, the rubber still curved but I glued it cause I had to play
    after playing the rubber started to unglue on the edge (the glue wasnt strong enough?)
    so I decide to remove the rubber to reglue it but while removing it, the glue removed the boost layer partially so I decided to remove all the layers on the rubber... to do it properly
    so I decided to put 1 layer of booster first, wait for 12h then 1 layer of glue and 1 layer of booster
    wait for 4 days, still very curved but I glue it to play this day and this time I put more glue because I want the rubber to not unglued on the edge...
    1 week after the rubber retracted on the edge (2-3mm) so I want to reglue it and it cracked while removing it x)

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    #6
    oh... you put too much booster

    Here is one of reciepts:
    1 lay of booster - wait for 15-30 min.
    2 lay of booster - wait for 24 hours
    3 lay of booster (if you REALLY need it) - wait for 4 days (better 5-7days)
    1 lay of glue - wait for a sponge will be dry (matte color)
    2 lay of glue -wait for a sponge will be dry (matte color)
    3 lay of glue -wait for a sponge will be dry (matte color)
    4 lay - if you need it. (usually i don't need it)
    use press (of some books or smth.) to glueing racket about 24 hours.
    good glue - nittaku finezip, dianchi(i use that glue), revolution no3 norm visc.
    questions - welcome.

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    Glen20


  7. shinhyun is offline
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    #7
    Yeah there are many way to boost, still don't know which one is the safest one x)
    Why people put a layer of glue before the booster? Why you don't?
    Oh I used books to pression the racket the second time I glued it
    My retailer told me that the neottec glue wasn't strong enough and recommanded me the révolution n3... But is it too strong? No problem to remove the rubber without cracking it into piece?

  8. Boogar is offline
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by AgavE
    oh... you put too much booster

    Here is one of reciepts:
    1 lay of booster - wait for 15-30 min.
    2 lay of booster - wait for 24 hours
    3 lay of booster (if you REALLY need it) - wait for 4 days (better 5-7days)
    1 lay of glue - wait for a sponge will be dry (matte color)
    2 lay of glue -wait for a sponge will be dry (matte color)
    3 lay of glue -wait for a sponge will be dry (matte color)
    4 lay - if you need it. (usually i don't need it)
    use press (of some books or smth.) to glueing racket about 24 hours.
    good glue - nittaku finezip, dianchi(i use that glue), revolution no3 norm visc.
    questions - welcome.
    Why would you put more than one layer of glue?

    And also why would you put a layer of glue before the boosting?
    Last edited by Boogar; 10-04-2016 at 05:40 PM.
    Spin Spin Spin...

  9. suds79 is offline
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Boogar
    Why would you put more than one layer of glue?

    And also why would you put a layer of glue before the boosting?
    I use to wonder this myself. But after having numerous DHS rubbers bubble on me with applying booster directly to the sponge (and those were done with Falco Tempo booster. Not as strong as Falco Long), I suppose it's important.

    Think i once heard it slows down the soak in of that booster going in. If it goes too fast, the stretching is too radical and you get what I had.

    Here's a video demonstrating it and they apply glue 1st.

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  10. tikitiki is offline
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    #10
    doesn't matter if you put 1000 layers of booster.
    if the sponge breaks when removing the rubber it's the glue's fault.
    that's why I asked what glue you use, cause most glues are not strong enough to cause this.

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    #11
    The lay of glue before booster is for better glueing. I don't need it usually with my glue.
    Revolution no3 - strong enough. it have wonderfull property - it remove very very easy like "at a head". (like dianchi glue although dianchi cheaper and a little bit stronger).

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    #12
    more liquid glue need more layers. Unlike old(speed) glue VOC free glue don't spread over the whole sponge. So one time is not enough to paint all of the sponge.
    But if you use not so liquid glue - for example BTY Free Chuck - two layers would be enough.
    ---
    I usually don't put a layer of glue before boosting.

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  13. tikitiki is offline
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    #13
    did anybody try falco long with rubber cement glue?

  14. shinhyun is offline
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    #14
    Does the revolution glue avoid the rubber from retraction?

  15. AgavE is offline
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    #15
    while the rubber will be on blade with glue - minimum of retraction.
    as soon as the rubber will be separated from the blade - size will be less. Because of tuning - booster. it expands the pores in sponge so sponge becomes bigger.

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    #16
    I've never had any problems with Revolution glue. It isn't that strong, but usually 2 layer is enough. And the more layer really makes the rubber faster and spinnier. So if you don't want to boost, try to use 2-3 layer on the wood and 3-4 layer on the rubber. Someone said that more than 7 layer doesn't help, as it won't give you speed nor spin, but the control will reduce. But 5-7 layers haven't as strong effect as boosting, but better than 2-3 layers.

  17. Boogar is offline
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by ajtatosmano2
    I've never had any problems with Revolution glue. It isn't that strong, but usually 2 layer is enough. And the more layer really makes the rubber faster and spinnier. So if you don't want to boost, try to use 2-3 layer on the wood and 3-4 layer on the rubber. Someone said that more than 7 layer doesn't help, as it won't give you speed nor spin, but the control will reduce. But 5-7 layers haven't as strong effect as boosting, but better than 2-3 layers.
    I don't think the Glue has boosting effects, no matter how many layers you put on. Id say with more layers the rubber actually gets worse. Unless ofc you have non voc-free glue. Like in the speed-glue time.
    Spin Spin Spin...

  18. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #18
    The glue causing damage to the sponge on a DHS rubber may mean poor quality control on the rubber. It also may mean you should seal your blade.

    As far as layers of glue. I have heard some guys from the CNT use 8-16 layers of glue. Extra rubber. Extra bounce. That is part of the theory. The main question would be, how much extra weight from the glue do you want? But extra glue does give more elasticity between the sponge and the blade face.

    To the OP: the standard way of boosting is that you apply the boost. Let the rubber dome and then curl up. AND THEN WAIT TILL IT HAS UNCURLED enough so you can glue it on without the rubber curling off the blade face.

    It sounds like you did not do this last part. It sounds like you glued while the rubber was still curled and it curled away from the blade face while you were playing.

    That doesn't mean your glue was not strong enough. And if the rubber curled away from the blade face it probably means that the glue WAS NOT TOO STRONG EITHER.

    The reason the rubber curled away from the blade was BECAUSE YOU DID NOT WAIT long enough for the dome to go down enough.

    As far as the sponge getting damaged, my guess is, it could be because you need to seal your blade or, it could be because the glue bonded strongly at that ONE POINT. Or, more likely, there was a quality control issue with that sponge.

    DHS is notorious for that kind of thing. Their quality control on certain products is atrocious.

    And DHS is one of the most counterfeited brands. And if it was a counterfeit of a DHS rubber ANYTHING can happen.


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  19. AgavE is offline
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    #19
    sorry but a little dome will be on rubber. (because of it we see chineese hurricane unglued from blades, and that's why Jike always touch corners of rubber so offen)
    a LITTLE dome.

  20. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by AgavE
    sorry but a little dome will be on rubber. (because of it we see chineese hurricane unglued from blades, and that's why Jike always touch corners of rubber so offen)
    a LITTLE dome.
    Yes. A little dome. Not a lot. That is why I said, "wait till dome has gone down ENOUGH."


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