Blade Lacquering, i haven't done this ,should i and why?

LucasMcCaine · Nov 3, 2016

hi guys ,so i placed and order for a paddle but i noticed they provided a lacquering service ,i've never had this done to any of my paddles ,is this something i should do ,and why ? and what is it ,besides the obvious?

SFF_lib · Nov 4, 2016

Lacquer will protect the blade from damage when peeling off rubbers.
Bear in mind lacquer on a flex or lopping blade will make it harder - therefore comprise the looping potential of the blade.

So depends on what blade you are talking about

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LucasMcCaine · Nov 4, 2016

Dhs long 5

NDH · Nov 4, 2016

I used to in the speed glue days, but not anymore.

I personally find that a lacquered blade doesn't hold the rubber as easily.

As as long as you are using the new water based glue, and peeling off carefully, you'll be OK.

LucasMcCaine · Nov 4, 2016

thaks guys ,always great source of knowledge

Baal · Nov 4, 2016

A trick I have used to protect blades that won't change how a blade plays is to spray the wood with old fashioned hair spray and let it dry just before gluing rubber. Think of "church lady" hair spray, the kind that makes hair glue up hard like a rock. Whether you need to do any of this depends a bit on what kind of blade and glue you are using. Some wood is pretty soft and glues like Donic Blue Thunder can shred it up.

LucasMcCaine · Nov 4, 2016

you mean the one with extra lacquer?sounds good ,how does it work for you ,any changes ?

Der_Echte · Nov 4, 2016

Sealing the blade is very essential nowadays for the majority of blades, especially ones with thin/soft top veneers.

The water based glue is stronger than old glue and will begin to tear of chunks of your top veneer anywhere from the 1st time you take off a rubber to the 51st time.

If you value your blade, seal it. Certain thick/hard top ply blades will be fine without it.

A light coat is enough, some experience is required to do it right. A few drops of Miniwax Polyurethane on a cloth rubbed quickly is enough.

tropical · Nov 4, 2016

There are certain water base glues not too hard to cause any damages on your thin veneer blades.

Der_Echte · Nov 4, 2016

Good luck telling that to thin layer Limba outers of Stiga owners...

UpSideDownCarl · Nov 4, 2016

The actual biggest reason I like to seal my blades (I like that term, rather than lacquer) is to protect the wood from the water in the water based glues.

For many blades you don't need to do it; for many blades you do need to do it because certain top plies get damaged more easily by taking off old rubbers.

But regardless of what kind of blade you use, the water in the water based glues is not so good for the top ply and after you have glued and removed rubbers several times, the wood starts playing slower and feeling less crisp because of the water from the glue.

So, for me, sealing the wood is as much about protecting the top ply from the water in the glue as anything.

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UpSideDownCarl · Nov 4, 2016

When I seal, I like using Minwax Wipe On Poly because it is really easy to apply and it is really easy to apply a super thin coat so that you don't really change the playing characteristics of the blade.

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tropical · Nov 4, 2016

Der_Echte said:
Good luck telling that to thin layer Limba outers of Stiga owners...

There is no luck here. Wish I can demonstrate for you!

UpSideDownCarl · Nov 4, 2016

tropical said:
There is no luck here. Wish I can demonstrate for you!

Have you ever owned one of the delicate Stiga blades Der is referring to?

tropical · Nov 4, 2016

UpSideDownCarl said:
Have you ever owned one of the delicate Stiga blades Der is referring to?

I used to own many Stiga blades and had to use lacquer to protect their surfaces. After switching to a special type of water base glue (hint: none of the TT mainstream ones) I no longer need lacquer. What does this Stiga blade differ from other Stiga all wood blades?

Knuckle Ball · Nov 4, 2016

I seal my blades. Blade face, handle and all. I seal heavily on the handle and very thin on the blade face. Helps a great deal in protecting the top ply when your remove the rubber. Makes removing the rubber easier and makes it easy to rub off glue residue on the blade face. It also protects the blade from getting damp from sweat. My sealed blades look clean and shiny even my 6 year old blades don't have stains or look dull. Does sealing make the blade surface harder? I seal very thinly and I never really noticed it. Ever so slightly maybe but nothing to affect the playing characteristic of the blade. Hope this helps

chuckjordan2 · Nov 4, 2016

Lacquer is a different substance than any poly wipe on bought at a big box store. Lacquer is a flexible coating. Go to an art store and buy a small bottle used for canvas.

And there is a difference between a 'sealer' versus a top coat (varnish, poly coat,etc). A sealant closes the pores.

I use a sealant, by a company named Mohawk.

What has not been discussed is sealing the edges too. Seal them to also prevent lifting at the edges (when peeling off rubbers).

Baal · Nov 4, 2016

chuckjordan2 said:
Lacquer is a different substance than any poly wipe on bought at a big box store. Lacquer is a flexible coating. Go to an art store and buy a small bottle used for canvas.

And there is a difference between a 'sealer' versus a top coat (varnish, poly coat,etc). A sealant closes the pores.

I use a sealant, by a company named Mohawk.

What has not been discussed is sealing the edges too. Seal them to also prevent lifting at the edges (when peeling off rubbers).

A lot of TT blade coats sold by Joola, Donic, Revolution, etc. are actually water soluble lacquers.

Der_Echte · Nov 4, 2016

SAFElazegui0901 · Nov 6, 2016

I would like to seal my blade with Minwax Poly too but it is not available here in the Philippines. Is Bosny Poly spray ok to use?

I understand that its better to spray it on a sponge then wipe it on the blade to make the coat thin and even. But will this do? they have it on MATTE and GLOSS finish.

Blade Lacquering, i haven't done this ,should i and why?

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