Homemade table tennis blade

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Good job, keep making them :D

I was wondering, what glue and press method do you use?

Hi
Normal wood glue and two pieces of thick and heavy melamine board with 7 clamps and left a minimum of 24 hours for each layer of veneer. I may change to a veneer rule as I believe the bond is stronger. The biggest issue is finding the right type and thickness of woods.
Thanks
Alan
 
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says Hi In first i want to thank you for your interest...
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Ive just read the other post and realised that it was your YouTube videos that I had followed! Your 3 part series was a really useful tool for me. How did you complete the inlay on the handle?

There was video also for the making of handle .. but i was saving material a lot there (most expensive part is nice wood for handle) and the process is more or less dangerous .. so i did not make the video for public.... But basically you make a template also for the handle ... then you attach it the same way like blade template but now to the wood of the handle (8mm thickness) with 1.5mm double sided tape.
And here you are using a radious bit R9.5 ... not flat one ... something like this:
http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/938~2~2~2
Here you have to be very careful when you are using harder wood (which are the best for nice looking grain and colour) just touch gently the grinder and go with the wood towards direction of the cutting edge of the bit. not in the direction of rotation .... this can tear the wood apart and it just can really hurts you a lot when you just hold it gently. hold it really strong a be careful and do not do it on one attempt, i have usualy make it with 10 or more slides.... .. use a longer wood for handle and lonfer template so you have enough space of safe zones for you to hold it strongly and safe. I remember first time when i make video of it and i was not careful enough i just shot down mi camera with it ... ;-)
I`m lucky i have all fingers.... The best way is to use cork which is relatively easy and safe to grind....
To get hands on the cork is easy .. just go to Ikea (or something like it) and try to find a cork pads under plate in desired width.
The slope ant the end you just easy grind it on the flatgrinder in desired angle .
Hope this helps you .... But be Very careful you have only ten fingers and one life !
Robert
 
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There was video also for the making of handle .. but i was saving material a lot there (most expensive part is nice wood for handle) and the process is more or less dangerous .. so i did not make the video for public.... But basically you make a template also for the handle ... then you attach it the same way like blade template but now to the wood of the handle (8mm thickness) with 1.5mm double sided tape.
And here you are using a radious bit R9.5 ... not flat one ... something like this:
http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/938~2~2~2
Here you have to be very careful when you are using harder wood (which are the best for nice looking grain and colour) just touch gently the grinder and go with the wood towards direction of the cutting edge of the bit. not in the direction of rotation .... this can tear the wood apart and it just can really hurts you a lot when you just hold it gently. hold it really strong a be careful and do not do it on one attempt, i have usualy make it with 10 or more slides.... .. use a longer wood for handle and lonfer template so you have enough space of safe zones for you to hold it strongly and safe. I remember first time when i make video of it and i was not careful enough i just shot down mi camera with it ... ;-)
I`m lucky i have all fingers.... The best way is to use cork which is relatively easy and safe to grind....
To get hands on the cork is easy .. just go to Ikea (or something like it) and try to find a cork pads under plate in desired width.
The slope ant the end you just easy grind it on the flatgrinder in desired angle .
Hope this helps you .... But be Very careful you have only ten fingers and one life !
Robert

Thanks - very interesting. I've sanded my handles with a delta sander, it's taken a while but worked ok. I've built a template to use with a plunge router using a bit like you've suggested and I'll see how that works. Do you hollow out your handles to make them lighter?
 
says Hi In first i want to thank you for your interest...
says Hi In first i want to thank you for your interest...
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Thanks - very interesting. I've sanded my handles with a delta sander, it's taken a while but worked ok. I've built a template to use with a plunge router using a bit like you've suggested and I'll see how that works. Do you hollow out your handles to make them lighter?
The light ones i do not hollow but the ones which are heavier i holow but not the way like pro companies does ... but i`m making something like multiple holes inside so they not fill empty but the weight is reduced.
i`m using Cordless drill with this attached .. http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/915~2
I`m placing them so they overlap in one third ... the reult is something like honeycomb .
This way it`s feels more like full wood but i get weight a few grams down ...
 
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Latest blade: Obeche;Douglas Fir; Walnut. 88g IMG_0240.jpgIMG_0246.jpg. I am happier with the shape on this one as it's more symmetrical. When the varnish is dry I'll be comparing this to my earlier blade. First impressions are that it has a little more bounce and feels slightly harder than the Obecce/Ayous; Fir; Limba blade but there isn't much in it. It's quite interesting to compare the two blades as the only difference (apart from the handle) is the walnut v limba outer ply. Even without the handle the walnut blade is 9g heavier. The test after this will be with rubbers although I hate to cove the wood up!
 
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Latest blade: Obeche;Douglas Fir; Walnut. 88gView attachment 11562View attachment 11563. I am happier with the shape on this one as it's more symmetrical. When the varnish is dry I'll be comparing this to my earlier blade. First impressions are that it has a little more bounce and feels slightly harder than the Obecce/Ayous; Fir; Limba blade but there isn't much in it. It's quite interesting to compare the two blades as the only difference (apart from the handle) is the walnut v limba outer ply. Even without the handle the walnut blade is 9g heavier. The test after this will be with rubbers although I hate to cove the wood up!

That's really a nice blade you've made, I wonder how it plays. The top ply looks nice, so I can imagine you'd rather not cover up the wood :)

What tools did you use?
 
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That's really a nice blade you've made, I wonder how it plays. The top ply looks nice, so I can imagine you'd rather not cover up the wood :)

What tools did you use?

Thanks Jirrex. The tools I use: Clamps to make a veneer press; router to cut the blade and handle from templates; sanders to finish off the blade and the handle - all standard home DIY tools. There are quite a few 'how to' videos and posts which really helped me.
 
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Here is a video showing the comparisons of the different blades:
. I used a Yinhe Earth 3 blade for comparison. The limba-fir-ayous blade seems to be a similar speed and bounce so i'm presuming about all + to off-; the walnut-fir-ayous has a slightly higher bounce and feels a bit crisper so I'm thinking off- to off; and the 7mm 90g walnut- ayous -ayous has a noticeably higher bounce with a very solid feel - I have tried this one with rubbers and it was definitely off to off+ and was quite a bit faster than my SPW when I hit it hard. I was also more direct with a flatter trajectory than the SPW, nothing that I couldn't adjust to. Rubbers next
 
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Well, finally tested both blades and both are very playable. Would I know they were homemade, absolutely not and neither could my club mates. I now have 3 who want me to make them a blade. What is quite interesting is the difference the top plus make. The core and medial are exactly the same but one has a walnut outer and the other limba. The walnut is similar in speed to my SPW but has a little more rich when trying to finish a point. It also has a slightly lower throw which meant I had to 'spin up' a little bit more. I used this at our club Christmas cup comp and came second after losing only one match - to someone I never beat anyway! The limba one is slower, more of an all round blade, it spins well and has a higher throw. It also has quite a lot of vibration which took me a while to get used to. The control is very good.
I've learned a lot from making and playing these blades and have now made two others which I'll post. My original intention was to buy an OSp blade but I thought I fancied trying to make one. Obviously it's not the same quality as an OSP blade but the walnut blade is definitely as good as my SPW - just a bit different.
 
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This is a 7 ply, mahogany - obeche - walnut - limba. The handle is ash with a centre strip from the 'waste' on another blade I made. I was trying to get the softer feel of limba but with some kick from the walnut medial ply. I now seem to have too many blades and not enough rubbers to go on them in order to test.
IMG_0257.jpgIMG_0259.jpg
 
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Nice work GinjaNinja, they keep getting better and better.

Also good to hear that you're satisfied with the way they play. I guess it gives a certain satisfaction when playing with a homemade blade.

Is it easy to get suitable wood for blades in the UK? Making an own blade is also on my todo list, but I guess that won't happen anytime soon.
 
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Thanks Jirrex. Yes easy to get most types of veneer in the UK. The core is difficult and limited to obeche (bayous) and balsa but the medial and outer are easy to get. I'm going to try some of the harder woods such as wenge and rosewood next. It's not that difficult to do really, at least at my level anyway. My woodwork skills are only fairly basic
 
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I already found a few interesting sources here on the forum. bobpuls's 'create your own blade' thread, in which MDP also contributed, was really useful. And there's a thread on OOAK forum by Ross Leidy which was also valuable. If there's any other sources you'd consider interesting, feel free to let me know.
 
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I already found a few interesting sources here on the forum. bobpuls's 'create your own blade' thread, in which MDP also contributed, was really useful. And there's a thread on OOAK forum by Ross Leidy which was also valuable. If there's any other sources you'd consider interesting, feel free to let me know.

They were the two main links/videos I used and they really helped me. Here are a few others that helped in terms of materials and composition, I hope they are of some use:

http://stervinou.net/ttbdb/index.php - database of blades and their composition
http://www.soulspin.tt/en/technology/roots-hoelzer.html#c225 - nice blades and helpfully they show the composition of each one.

http://www.tabletennisdb.com/blog/wood/comment-page-1/#comment-8931 - wood types

http://mytabletennis.net/forum/foru...e=i-wanna-make-my-own-blades-i-need-your-help - another home made blade
http://oakdalecrafts.co.uk - this is where I get most of my veneers from and I think they ship to Europe. I get my cores from model shops.


 
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