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It works good 
I did it several times. No problem. But you have to grind a bit to get a smooth surface because it is thicker than other stuff.
I did it several times. No problem. But you have to grind a bit to get a smooth surface because it is thicker than other stuff.
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I tried it once long ago and it kind of stuck to the wood but then I started scratching a bit with my nail and it started coming off.
So in the end I just took it all off with my nail and used a regular varnish instead.
You can't do that with varnish, once it's in it doesn't come out.
So in the end I just took it all off with my nail and used a regular varnish instead.
You can't do that with varnish, once it's in it doesn't come out.
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Thank you for asking my opinion. It...
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I use it too...
I only seal the edge of the blade and the neck part.
I use a ruler to draw a faint line at the top of my handle to indicate, where I should apply the nail-varnish/polish.
When applying to a new blade I check the edges of the handle and sandpaper it, to make it confortable for me, I also sandpaper the surface where I want to apply the polish. I use p250-500 sandpapers for this. After that I clean the blade to make it dust free. The first layer of varnish is soaked in instantly. The second will stay on top and it will be slippery. I use a little sandpaper to make it grippy. I don't have problem with this method, the varnish won't come off.
When applying to an old blade, use sandpaper and some solvent to remove oily and fatty stains from the wood, otherwise the varnish will not soak and it will come off easily after drying.
I use the cheapest varnishes without any colouring.
I only seal the edge of the blade and the neck part.
I use a ruler to draw a faint line at the top of my handle to indicate, where I should apply the nail-varnish/polish.
When applying to a new blade I check the edges of the handle and sandpaper it, to make it confortable for me, I also sandpaper the surface where I want to apply the polish. I use p250-500 sandpapers for this. After that I clean the blade to make it dust free. The first layer of varnish is soaked in instantly. The second will stay on top and it will be slippery. I use a little sandpaper to make it grippy. I don't have problem with this method, the varnish won't come off.
When applying to an old blade, use sandpaper and some solvent to remove oily and fatty stains from the wood, otherwise the varnish will not soak and it will come off easily after drying.
I use the cheapest varnishes without any colouring.
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I'm not talking about varnish.
I'm talking about that product people use to put in their nails to protect them.
After this they put the real color they want for the nail.
So it's like a nail protector.
I'm talking about that product people use to put in their nails to protect them.
After this they put the real color they want for the nail.
So it's like a nail protector.
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I guess something like this is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/Winning-Nails-Tough-Bonder-Sealer/dp/B00654HPVC
https://www.amazon.com/Winning-Nails-Tough-Bonder-Sealer/dp/B00654HPVC
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One cautionary note and another way to think about this. A reason NOT to seal blades.
These days, premium performance rubbers cost as much as blades (or a lot more if you take it over the course of a year or two). For example, a Viscaria costs ~ 120-130 USD, but two sheets of T05 cost 160 USD!
If you are not very careful with how you seal or vanish blades, two things can happen. You can make the top surface harder and faster and totally change the feel of the blade (which can happen if you use products not designed for TT). Almost worse, you can make it very difficult to get the rubber to adhere properly and uniformly to the blade with water-based glues. (This can happen even with sealers and varnish designed for TT). You can get little pockets under the surface where the rubber is not quite stuck down (especially around edges, but sometimes in the middle). That badly affects rubber performance. So if you are spending that much money on rubber, why would you do something that might make the stuff play at less than optimal.
These days I don't seal blades. Maybe I would if I played with a ZJK-sZLC, but I don't. I use $50/sheet rubbers on a <$100 blade. And I use Btfly Free Chack II glue which does not seem to damage the koto surface.
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all my rubbers are pretty old but I boost like a modastoka so they are still powerful.
I use rubber cement so bond is not too powerful.
the blade I ordered is a mazunov, one of the cheapest butterfly blades.
maybe the cheapest made in japan blade today.
I use rubber cement so bond is not too powerful.
the blade I ordered is a mazunov, one of the cheapest butterfly blades.
maybe the cheapest made in japan blade today.
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+1
[Emoji106]
After you've first wrote about this a while ago i got curious and tried that and it doesn't change playing characteristics at all, so it just works perfectly. Actually even much better than any sealant i've tried so far.
Haven't found the right time yet, so here I do it now:
Thanks a bunch, Baal. That really was helpful.
[Emoji106]
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Yeah hair spray but the idea was to buy something smaller.
A hair spray bottle can be bigger than a can of lacquer.
You feel me?
A hair spray bottle can be bigger than a can of lacquer.
You feel me?
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+1
I never seal blades for myself too
Back to my lovely 15+ year old YE now
I got some ZLC blades which didn't seal too
Not much issues if you use the correct glue (I prefer very thin/wet glue, compared to thick glue)
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It's always wise to put at least one layer of sealer.
Specially if you are using water based glue to avoid wood sucking it.
Specially if you are using water based glue to avoid wood sucking it.
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Hahahaaa
[Emoji2]
Well, i should be the last to speak on this. Before TT-Companies started selling sealants we used to use regular nail polish.
Yes, you've read correctly: nail polish.
I think i still have an old Persson Powerplay from the eighties with the blade face in shiny red somewhere in my crates.
[Emoji12]
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I like Baal's hairspray method better. Takes under 30 seconds. The nail polish thing is funny. But it probably took a long time to get full coverage. And it would be darn hard to get the layer thin enough for my happiness. I would rather just use sealant.
But I would love to see a photo of that blade with the shinny red nail polish on it.
Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
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I've just had a look in my drawers but couldn't find it yet, but a close friend also has one blade from back then and in case i can't find mine he'll take a pic of his. I'll try to get this in the next days for you to see.
But as i said, that method was quite popular, but that was in the mid eighties and i was about 14 or 15 and my friend's club's first team played with Erich Arndt at TTC Mörfelden in the 2. Bundesliga to that time.
We didn't come up with that idea though. IIRC we have seen that from players like Jochen Kaiser and Christian Dreher we knew from that team [Jochen was from my neighbourhood and Christian was in the same school like my friend] who were about our age and who'd been doing this. It was mostly because they were heavily into speedglueing.
But as i said, nowadays i just use hairspray. That works totally fine.
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I tried hairspray long ago.
It's a disgrace.
It doesnt protect the blade like lacquer.
You have to apply it over and over because it goes away.
One of the best blades I tried was from a guy who had been speed gluing it for around 15 years
Also from time to time he would put a layer of lacquer because he said it goes away.
It's a disgrace.
It doesnt protect the blade like lacquer.
You have to apply it over and over because it goes away.
One of the best blades I tried was from a guy who had been speed gluing it for around 15 years
Also from time to time he would put a layer of lacquer because he said it goes away.
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