Help me!!

Gourav Acharya · May 12, 2017

Can someone help to recognise my blade? I forgot which one it was as a friend of mine gave it to me 3 years ago. Now I want to change but I want my new blade to be similar to this one.So if anyone knows a blade which looks like this, please lemme know.

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Jonas_Plays · May 13, 2017

There's a bunch of blades in the box at our club that are for kids and newbies and from what I remember they look really similar. My guess is that you were just given a non-branded mass produced cheap all-wood beginner paddle and got used to how it played with the better rubbers that were put on.

I can take a picture of one of the blades in our box next time at the club and if you're really keen I can send it to you in exchange for postage and a small donation to our club.

Or you could buy something like this and once you get used to it, it'll probably play better:

http://www.jarvissports.co.uk/?shop=shopitems/donic.waldner.exclusive.110231.aspx

UpSideDownCarl · May 13, 2017

I think the rubber is some kind of DHS rubber. Right? Can you take a photo that lets us see both the black and the red rubber, and lets us read the label on the rubber clearly?

The rubber is not the blade. But it is part of what you are feeling. And the blade has no markings and is likely just a recreational blade like what Jonas is talking about.

Jonas_Plays · May 13, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
I think the rubber is some kind of DHS rubber. Right? Can you take a photo that lets us see both the black and the red rubber, and lets us read the label on the rubber clearly?

The rubber is not the blade. But it is part of what you are feeling. And the blade has no markings and is likely just a recreational blade like what Jonas is talking about.

Ah, OP wants to recreate the set-up, not just buy the same blade again. The rubber is definitely DHS tin arc, but it was probably already a bit worn out and thus a bit less sensitive to spin.

Gourav Acharya · May 13, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
I think the rubber is some kind of DHS rubber. Right? Can you take a photo that lets us see both the black and the red rubber, and lets us read the label on the rubber clearly?

The rubber is not the blade. But it is part of what you are feeling. And the blade has no markings and is likely just a recreational blade like what Jonas is talking about.

I'm using tin arc5(red) on fh and 729-2 on bh. Tin arc is new, looks worn out because I didn't cut it properly. 729-2 is two months old. When my friend gave me the racket, it had tibhar nimbus on fh, and tibhar nianmor on bh. I loved the nianmor on bh immediately. But changed the nimbus to 729 after 2-3 months. The 729-2 on my bh now is my third one. I was satisfied with nianmor till the last two months where it started to loose it's grip. Thus the new tin arc5.

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UpSideDownCarl · May 14, 2017

Okay. If you are choosing your own rubbers, I would just get a decent wood blade.

For less expensive it could be something like a Yinhe Galaxy 896 blade.

For medium price you could get any of these:

1) Yasaka Sweden Extra
2) Stiga Allround Evolution
3) Butterfly Primorac Off-

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Gourav Acharya · May 14, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
Okay. If you are choosing your own rubbers, I would just get a decent wood blade.

For less expensive it could be something like a Yinhe Galaxy 896 blade.

For medium price you could get any of these:

1) Yasaka Sweden Extra
2) Stiga Allround Evolution
3) Butterfly Primorac Off-

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Would dhs pg9 or pg7 suite my current rubber setup?

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Jaffar Lone · May 14, 2017

I think PG9 would suit your rubbers more, Gourav.

Gourav Acharya · May 14, 2017

Jaffar Lone said:
I think PG9 would suit your rubbers more, Gourav.

Could you help me understand why?I hear pg9 is pg7 with more speed. Is it because of that?

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UpSideDownCarl · May 14, 2017

I personally think the blades I listed will be closer to the speed of your blade. But the DHS PG blades are fine.

I don't love their shape or how they feel in my hand. But they have decent ball feel. They are probably just faster than what you are already using.

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countrybread · May 15, 2017

For a long time I would use a lot of pre-assembled/recreational paddles that were lying around and just rip off the worn-out rubbers and glue new ones on. They were really cheap Chinese rubbers like Yinhe.

Now I'm a EJ and I had all these blades and rubbers that I hadn't actually even touched. I know, I know, I have a terrible disease. I finally decided it was time and chose a Yasaka Sweden Extra that I had and paired it with Rakza 7. Wow, what a difference! A substantial upgrade compared to my previous basement level paddle. My practice partner noticed the difference immediately. I began to feel foolish that I hadn't used this stuff earlier.

So I think the YSE is a great blade and the others Carl mentioned are probably just as good if not better.

UpSideDownCarl · May 15, 2017

countrybread said:
For a long time I would use a lot of pre-assembled/recreational paddles that were lying around and just rip off the worn-out rubbers and glue new ones on. They were really cheap Chinese rubbers like Yinhe.

Now I'm a EJ and I had all these blades and rubbers that I hadn't actually even touched. I know, I know, I have a terrible disease. I finally decided it was time and chose a Yasaka Sweden Extra that I had and paired it with Rakza 7. Wow, what a difference! A substantial upgrade compared to my previous basement level paddle. My practice partner noticed the difference immediately. I began to feel foolish that I hadn't used this stuff earlier.

So I think the YSE is a great blade and the others Carl mentioned are probably just as good if not better.

[emoji2] Excellent post. Yasaka Sweden Extra is an awesome blade and that blade right till you are at quite a decent level.

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Jaffar Lone · May 15, 2017

Reason in that the PG9 has Koto as the outer layer whereas on the PG7 it is Limba. PG7 is more of an all-around offensive blade whereas the PG9 is an offensive blade.
In addition to that, the Tinarc rubber suits the PG-9 setup quite well, as one of my club mates used the very same combination last year.

Der_Echte · May 15, 2017

Der_Echte Mega-Sweated for over a year and deteriorated the neck of the battle ax Kim Jung Hoon and it is now cracke out. Beem using the Nexy LISSOM ALL to ALL+ blade with the prototype Karis M+... Every time I "Down grade" in speed to that blade my gane gets better when I get a new main blade. That rubber on such a slow blade is NOT slow. I can REALLY crack it on either wing with this setup. I just ordered TWO Lissoms as backups from Nexy Korea along with the New Karis "H" (Hard) rubbers amd some new shoes.

I bought a couple of thin carbon Tibhar Samsonov CB blades form MyTT member Dreiz from NYC and slapped MX-P on it to see how it rocks... It rocked my shots out of bounds on every try. Today, Out on a new sheet of Nexy Karis M+ and now that blade is a puppy dog control with a burst of young love power.

Gourav Acharya · May 15, 2017

Jaffar Lone said:
Reason in that the PG9 has Koto as the outer layer whereas on the PG7 it is Limba. PG7 is more of an all-around offensive blade whereas the PG9 is an offensive blade.
In addition to that, the Tinarc rubber suits the PG-9 setup quite well, as one of my club mates used the very same combination last year.

So is Koto soft or hard? Because tinarc5 is a pretty hard rubber. So is soft and hard good or is hard and hard good. I want to know this because I want to consider all options before buying a blade. So if you say soft and hard is good then I'll search for other soft blades too. And same for hard and hard.

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UpSideDownCarl · May 15, 2017

Gourav Acharya said:
So is Koto soft or hard? Because tinarc5 is a pretty hard rubber. So is soft and hard good or is hard and hard good. I want to know this because I want to consider all options before buying a blade. So if you say soft and hard is good then I'll search for other soft blades too. And same for hard and hard.

So many people think things work like that. But the answer to the question actually really comes down to level of technique and personal taste.

Koto is harder, faster and has less dwell time. Just reverse what I said for Limba: slower, softer and more dwell time.

One person will like soft rubbers on a soft blade. Another will prefer a hard blade with soft rubbers.

Some of this is also in the imagination of the user. If you play with something long enough you will get used to it.

Any offensive rubber will work on any offensive blade.

If you handed a Viscaria with Tinarc on it to 20 different people, some will like it. Some will say things like: the rubber is too hard for the blade. Others will say: the blade is too hard for the rubber. But once those people get used to the setup they will think something else.

Rubbers do what they do and act how they act. Same with blades.

What happens is, someone who is used to a hard blade with soft rubber will feel the same hard blade with soft rubber and think: "hard blades don't work with hard rubbers." But they will think this because they are not used to it. Not because it is true.

Soft blades work with soft, hard or medium rubbers. Hard and medium blades, same thing.

But what you like is subjective and to a large extent is based on what you have been using. But if you play with a setup long enough you will get used to it.

However, there is other info that is useful. Some of it comes out when you ask a question like:

What will really be a good blade and rubber combination to help me improve?

For most developing players who are developing their strokes, footwork and skills, a 5 ply all wood blade with a basic rubber which has good control and the ability to generate spin would be most beneficial for developing technique and helping you improve.

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OldschoolPenholder · May 15, 2017

About 2 years ago, I started playing TT again after a 30+ yrs absence. I used to play with the 1980's Chinese rubbers like Friendship.

In my 'unretirement' i tried a tensor rubber, a German Adidas sheet. Ball jumped off like crazy. I couldn't get used to it. As I played a bit more, I changed rubbers throughout before playing with a MX-P. Was not that bouncy compared to the Adidas, was able to control most of my shots. Playing with the MX-P helped me a bit to get used to tensor rubbers.

Now, the past 6 sessions of playing I've been using Tenergy FX-80 ... if not for the experience of playing with the MX-P and the Adidas I would be saying the Tenergy is too fast and bouncy. From a little prior experience I was amazed I adapted quicker than I thought to the Tenergy.

I second what Carl is saying if players play long enough with a setup, they would get used to it. And of course Carl drops wisdom with the question that should've been asked.

Gourav Acharya · May 15, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
So many people think things work like that. But the answer to the question actually really comes down to level of technique and personal taste.

Koto is harder, faster and has less dwell time. Just reverse what I said for Limba: slower, softer and more dwell time.

One person will like soft rubbers on a soft blade. Another will prefer a hard blade with soft rubbers.

Some of this is also in the imagination of the user. If you play with something long enough you will get used to it.

Any offensive rubber will work on any offensive blade.

If you handed a Viscaria with Tinarc on it to 20 different people, some will like it. Some will say things like: the rubber is too hard for the blade. Others will say: the blade is too hard for the rubber. But once those people get used to the setup they will think something else.

Rubbers do what they do and act how they act. Same with blades.

What happens is, someone who is used to a hard blade with soft rubber will feel the same hard blade with soft rubber and think: "hard blades don't work with hard rubbers." But they will think this because they are not used to it. Not because it is true.

Soft blades work with soft, hard or medium rubbers. Hard and medium blades, same thing.

But what you like is subjective and to a large extent is based on what you have been using. But if you play with a setup long enough you will get used to it.

However, there is other info that is useful. Some of it comes out when you ask a question like:

What will really be a good blade and rubber combination to help me improve?

For most developing players who are developing their strokes, footwork and skills, a 5 ply all wood blade with a basic rubber which has good control and the ability to generate spin would be most beneficial for developing technique and helping you improve.

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Ok thanks that helped alot. After thinking alot I'm gonna go with a dhs fang bo carbon

Jaffar Lone · May 16, 2017

I think car said it best ===> For most developing players who are developing their strokes, footwork and skills, a 5 ply all wood blade with a basic rubber which has good control and the ability to generate spin would be most beneficial for developing technique and helping you improve <===

This point is worth saving and looking at again and again.

Thank you Carl.

Der_Echte · May 16, 2017

Sounds like the Goon Squad had a quick chat with JL...

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