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The UpSideDown Method of Sealing Your Blade
- Thread starter UpSideDownCarl
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Dudes, I think right after the founder saw those trees he realized that like every single atom in his finger was like a solar system. Then he got the munchies and was really hungry. Then he decided that he would have a new logo. Then he got more munchies so ate the entire pizza in the fridge. Then he came up with the idea for Karis but forgot it. But he remembered the trees but had forgotten the logo he originally came up with, so just drew the first the thing he saw.
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Nothing is wrong with them. However in North America the stuff Carl uses can be bought at every single hardware or home care store and the big can he uses costs less than the little bottle sold for table tennis.
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Exactly. With how easy it is to get, with how easy it is to apply, how there is NO cleanup, and how thin a coat you can apply while still getting full coverage and more than adequate protection, I feel it does exactly what I want.
I have a feeling that the sealants from most TT companies are totally fine. And almost as convenient; except the fact that I can walk to a hardware store 2 blocks away from my home and pick up a can that will last the rest of my life.
For a quite small price, I get an amount where, if I spilled the contents of a whole bottle of TT brand sealant I would still have 5 times that amount left. So I will not worry if I put more than I need on the paper towel and then throw the soaked paper towel away.
In the end, whatever kind of sealant you use is entirely a personal choice. For me what I filmed was ABOUT how easy it is to seal a blade using my method. Der_Echte's voice saying "4 min" indicating the entire time the process took from start to finish is easy to see in the time count on the video.
I think the process could be almost as easy with a sealant from a TT brand as well. Sealing a blade is just a simple process.
But I do like how this Oil based sealant works--how it seals, and how the glued rubber sticks to it but is still easy to remove--better than the one water based sealant from a TT company which I tried.
However, you should feel free to use whatever sealant you want.
All this video really shows is that sealing a blade is very simple and should not be too much of a hassle. It can be a simple process that takes under 5 min. I could probably do 5 more rackets in under 10 min.
Sometimes people try and make this seem like it is complicated. It just isn't. Sealing a blade should only take you a few min and then drying time.
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My question is why seal such a beautiful blade with a good hard outer ply? To offend the TT Gods?
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What you see from Carl is something he has chosen after he came out the same woods of confusion you are currently in .... we have already discussed this elsewhere , tt brand water based sealants work but you have to re-apply when you need to reglue your rubber ... isn't that the information you shared earlier Carl ?
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Science is cool. The "Water Based"
Sealants are made soluble in water only until they dry. Once they fully dry, they are no longer water soluble.
Baal, can you explain that again? Fifamwiester must have missed the thread where you gave such a good description.
BTW: fifa, the thin coat I applied will protect the wood.
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Good question. I like to seal all my blades. You don't. Seems fine either way to me. I know that thin layer won't change how the blade plays.
Perhaps it is enough that it makes me happy. And that I got a chance to make a video showing just how unfussy sealing a blade can be even if you have just escaped from the goon squad.
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I personally would not seal the handle. I want the handle to be able to absorb my sweat. The woods they use for the handle do this well. It does not harm the blade. And a sealed handle feels terrible. At least to me. I do not want a slippery handle that makes my hand feel even wetter than it is.
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He is one of THE moderators 
.... just look at his avatar on the left and the title below .... just kidding ... this is good info. but I think the point to note is if its a oil based sealant it won't penetrate the wood that much and hence less moisture in the wood and less change in the playing properties of the blade ...
.... just look at his avatar on the left and the title below .... just kidding ... this is good info. but I think the point to note is if its a oil based sealant it won't penetrate the wood that much and hence less moisture in the wood and less change in the playing properties of the blade ...
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Nah. You don't have to seal more than once.
This is actually an interesting point. But I don't think just one time matters. I think the water based glue becomes a problem when you glue over and over again.
Still, I definitely prefer the old VOC sealants than the new fangled water based variety.
That does factor into why I personally like the kind of sealant I use. I don't quite like how the one WB sealant I tried felt when I pulled the rubbers off.
Since I am "The" moderator and it is my thread, I feel this is fine here. [emoji2]
But I can 100% stand by my method of blade sealing. And I don't really like the WB sealant I have tried. [emoji2]
So, even though I am impartial to what sealer someone else uses, I am confident that the blade sealing process I use is 100% adequate for sealing MY blades. It ticks off my boxes.
And the photo of the blade sealant being applied with a brush tells me, THAT method cannot provide as thin and even a coat. And it may not even cover the blade surface as well.
He is one of THE moderators
I resemble that remark. You beat me to it. Hahaha. [emoji2]
It is almost like when, in Game of Throwns, Little Finger asks Marjory Tyrell, "do you want to be a queen?" And she answers:
"No......I want to be THE QUEEN!!!"
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One good answer to your question is in the thread already. That is why I asked Jirrex to make this post.
I am sure any traditional wood sealant mixed with mineral spirits would work. If you want it as close to Wipe-On-Poly as you can get, you would just go to a hardware store and get a polyurethane wood sealant and mix it with mineral spirits as Jirrex describes.
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But, if you were at a hardware store, all you really need to do is get any sealant that is traditional and has a warning about harmful fumes. Like this:
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If you look on the numerous woodworking sites you will find that they recommend a equal part mixture of PU varnish; Teak or Linseed oil; and mineral spirit as a replacement for wipe on poly, in fact many make their own because they object to the price. I've used this mixture and it works great - goes on easy, gives protection and the oil nourishes the wood. Even with 2 coats you wouldn't perceive any difference in the way the blade plays. I've tested with and without and no-one has been able to spot any change - this includes some very very good players too.
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Oh. Hahaha. Okay.
Then it is actually pretty funny. And....you definitely got me. Which is even funnier.
And it does go with the presentation.
Sometimes I am slow on picking up other people's sarcastic humor in spite of loving to make posts just like yours.
Thanks for the clarification.
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Does the Linseed oil mainly enriches the color of the wood or is there also a protecting effect?
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It does both. It will offer some protection, not as much as a varnish and it will also darken the colour in the same way varnish tends to. I prefer teak oil as linseed can leave a yellow hue. I've expiremented with different amounts of spirit to vary how thick the varnish/oil is.
I think the need to varnish depends on the grain and the finish of the wood/blade. If it's rough or the grain is pronounced there is more likelihood of the ply being lifted when you remove the rubber. However these are my findings for the blades I make rather than manufactured ones which use a different gluing and finishing process and it seems the quality varies depending on the company. I always varnish now, just to be safe more than anything else - plus I think the wood looks nicer!
i think Carl's video is spot on but if you can't get wipe on poly then make your own, it really is easy to do.
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This is great info. Thanks.
I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?
I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.
For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.
What do you think?
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