The UpSideDown Method of Sealing Your Blade

Instructions unclear, solvent was not very tasty when ingested.

Case in point , when I used to play cricket , we used to "season" newly bought cricket bats .... cricket bats are made of willow ... we would pierce the surface , put coats of linseed oil and then leave it out in the sun for a while , before knocking it with hammers or old cricket balls. the result was that the softness of the wood would be gone and it will become harder and crisper ....

UpSideDownCarl said:

This is great info. Thanks.

I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

What do you think?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Click to expand...

UpSideDownCarl said:

This is great info. Thanks.

I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

What do you think?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Click to expand...

Interesting point Carl, curious to GinjaNinja's take on this.

UpSideDownCarl said:

This is great info. Thanks.

I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

What do you think?


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Click to expand...

Really interesting point Carl, I can't claim to be an absolute expert on wood finishes but considering I've made and sealed 30 or so blades in the last 6 months often using different techniques, I'd consider myself experienced at least!

In answer to your question I think a lot would depend on the amount used. When you oil floors and furniture you put on an excessively thick layer, let it soak in and then wipe of the excess after 15-30 mins - I would never do that with a blade. When you are adding oil to a blend it's a significantly smaller amount - i would imagine a 1/50th of the amount at the most. The mineral spirit effectively thins the mixture again diluting the amount. Also, oil is much much softer than PU varnish which often dries rock hard so I feel it softens the PU varnish a little too. What I would say is to let it fully dry out before attaching any rubbers - I give each one of my blades at least 5 days so that as much moisture evaporates as possible.
Another way to look at this is that oil allows the wood to breathe whereas varnish or sealer is designed to seal the blade and therefore not let any moisture out. Personally i would never use varnish only.
So for me anyway I would say adding oil allows the wood to breathe a little more and therefore let the moisture dissipate in addition to helping soften what can be a very hard varnish. I also like how oil gives a touch more depth to the colour of wood, which when I'm using aesthetically pleasing woods such as mahogany, walnut or rosewood is important to me. Like many things in life, table tennis being one of them, it's a matter of preference!

fifameister said:

I saw this post but I passed it by because I don't want to make experiences with my new blade because it will be an 150€ blade
I'm looking for something ready to do the business
I can't trust hardware sellers also because they may haven't idea of how lightly sealing I need and haven't idea with tt blades ,so they will suggest something in general for multipurpose which maybe harm my blades characteristics

Click to expand...

If you are worried about it, increase the amount of mineral spirits as this will give you a thinner layer of varnish. Try two thirds MS to one third PU varnish. Spread the varnish really thinly, two thin even coats are better than one thick uneven layer.

Hi Carl, firstly thanks for sharing your experience and valuable info. However, I got the water based Minwax poly (since I read an old thread about blade sealing and I don't remember that being mentioned). I don't think that water based one should be causing any issues. Since after all we are applying a very thin coat of polyurethane.
What do you think?

KM1976 said:

Hi Carl, firstly thanks for sharing your experience and valuable info. However, I got the water based Minwax poly (since I read an old thread about blade sealing and I don't remember that being mentioned). I don't think that water based one should be causing any issues. Since after all we are applying a very thin coat of polyurethane.
What do you think?

Click to expand...

When it comes to protection, I think you're good with water based poly. However, on several woodworking forums and OOAK table tennis forum I've read that water based sealers raise the grain, so maybe you need to use a bit of sandpaper.

Jirrex said:

When it comes to protection, I think you're good with water based poly. However, on several woodworking forums and OOAK table tennis forum I've read that water based sealers raise the grain, so maybe you need to use a bit of sandpaper.

Click to expand...

Currently I use water based TT sealer and I have noticed this.

I have some questions about using water based TT sealants:

1) Using sandpaper after sealing to make blade surface very smooth is something highly recommended? Is it too bad to leave it "unsanded"?
2) If I light sand it, is there a chance to remove the sealer? (that is the main reason I'm afraid to sand after I seal)
3) One coat of water TT sealant is enough or it is better to do two coats?

So i recently sealed my new bat using the minwax spray (fast drying clear satin I think, I'll have to check).

I sprayed each side liberally but wiped it down with a tissue afterwards before it dries. I did this twice (to make sure it had a decent coating and didn't look like it miwax was brushed on haphazzardly).

Carl, is there a way to tell if I've over sealed it?

shinshiro said:

Currently I use water based TT sealer and I have noticed this.

I have some questions about using water based TT sealants:

1) Using sandpaper after sealing to make blade surface very smooth is something highly recommended? Is it too bad to leave it "unsanded"?
2) If I light sand it, is there a chance to remove the sealer? (that is the main reason I'm afraid to sand after I seal)
3) One coat of water TT sealant is enough or it is better to do two coats?

Click to expand...

I think this post on OOAK forum answers your questions: http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=17635#p191843

The whole thread might be interesting to read, seems there are some people that have a lot of experience with sealing blades (with water based sealant).

UpSideDownCarl said:

Too many cooks. [emoji2]

I have already given my answers. But perhaps a few more answers.

I personally would never sand a blade after sealing. I see no reason.

I personally don't want to use water based sealant. I see no reason. The stuff with the VOCs work well.

I also am not quite following the idea of making the grain of the wood look more visually appealing when I am going to put rubbers on the blade and bang the edges till it starts looking more like a battle axe than an elegant piece of furniture.

Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Click to expand...

I totally understand the idea of the pointlessness of having visually appealing wood, my wife asks why I bother when it's covered up with rubbers. As i said I think it's a personal thing, I love working with wood and watching it come to life when sanded and finished is a treat and always exciting. For me it's an important part of the blade making process but I understand why others may not feel the same. What is food for one man is bitter poison for another - or however that quote goes!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-UT...8&qid=1504702912&sr=1-1&keywords=polyurethane

This is an oil based wipe on poly. it seems to tick all the boxes. Do really need to dilute it further with oil? There are many poly based varnishes like this readily available in the UK.

Also, has anyone sealed with the intent of changing the playing characteristics? Is it possible to give 2-3 coats and get a faster blade without horribly diminishing the feel? in other words, is it just as effective as having a harder outer ply, or do you sacrifice more control for you speed that is gained?

What's the lowdown on the upsidedown approach to sealing a non new blade? (Let's suppose the blade is like new/undamaged, except that it already got to party with rubbers and glue.)

fifameister said:

I believe that the blade must be protected from the water based glues, and if not sealing the blade will not last long time

Click to expand...

you could still seal the blade but use WBG just on the sponge and use rubber cement on the wood. Not sure if it would pass a VOC test but there should be no "speed glue" effect on the rubber and it will give you a stronger bond. It may also be cheaper if you reglue a lot, since you are using less WBG.

This may be the best blade sealer: http://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff/.

I have several blades sealed with this "good stuff" by the supplier and never had a problem with moisture, splintering, or glue adhesion. The best part is that the sealer doesn't just sit on top of the blade but rather penetrates the wood and it doesn't change the feel of the blade. Not sure how it does that but it works amazingly...

James Livesey said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-UT...8&qid=1504702912&sr=1-1&keywords=polyurethane

This is an oil based wipe on poly. it seems to tick all the boxes. Do really need to dilute it further with oil? There are many poly based varnishes like this readily available in the UK.


Also, has anyone sealed with the intent of changing the playing characteristics? Is it possible to give 2-3 coats and get a faster blade without horribly diminishing the feel? in other words, is it just as effective as having a harder outer ply, or do you sacrifice more control for you speed that is gained?

Click to expand...

I've used the exact same varnish but I find it's too thick and heavy to wipe on. Dilute with white spirit - 50/50 ratio - and it works great. For application just follow Carl's instructions.