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This is great info. Thanks.
I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?
I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.
For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.
What do you think?
Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
This is great info. Thanks.
I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?
I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.
For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.
What do you think?
Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
This is great info. Thanks.
I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?
I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.
For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.
What do you think?
Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
I saw this post but I passed it by because I don't want to make experiences with my new blade because it will be an 150€ blade
I'm looking for something ready to do the business
I can't trust hardware sellers also because they may haven't idea of how lightly sealing I need and haven't idea with tt blades ,so they will suggest something in general for multipurpose which maybe harm my blades characteristics
Hi Carl, firstly thanks for sharing your experience and valuable info. However, I got the water based Minwax poly (since I read an old thread about blade sealing and I don't remember that being mentioned). I don't think that water based one should be causing any issues. Since after all we are applying a very thin coat of polyurethane.
What do you think?
When it comes to protection, I think you're good with water based poly. However, on several woodworking forums and OOAK table tennis forum I've read that water based sealers raise the grain, so maybe you need to use a bit of sandpaper.
Currently I use water based TT sealer and I have noticed this.
I have some questions about using water based TT sealants:
1) Using sandpaper after sealing to make blade surface very smooth is something highly recommended? Is it too bad to leave it "unsanded"?
2) If I light sand it, is there a chance to remove the sealer? (that is the main reason I'm afraid to sand after I seal)
3) One coat of water TT sealant is enough or it is better to do two coats?
So i recently sealed my new bat using the minwax spray (fast drying clear satin I think, I'll have to check).
I sprayed each side liberally but wiped it down with a tissue afterwards before it dries. I did this twice (to make sure it had a decent coating and didn't look like it miwax was brushed on haphazzardly).
Carl, is there a way to tell if I've over sealed it?
Too many cooks. [emoji2]
I have already given my answers. But perhaps a few more answers.
I personally would never sand a blade after sealing. I see no reason.
I personally don't want to use water based sealant. I see no reason. The stuff with the VOCs work well.
I also am not quite following the idea of making the grain of the wood look more visually appealing when I am going to put rubbers on the blade and bang the edges till it starts looking more like a battle axe than an elegant piece of furniture.
Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
I totally understand the idea of the pointlessness of having visually appealing wood, my wife asks why I bother when it's covered up with rubbers. As i said I think it's a personal thing, I love working with wood and watching it come to life when sanded and finished is a treat and always exciting. For me it's an important part of the blade making process but I understand why others may not feel the same. What is food for one man is bitter poison for another - or however that quote goes!
What's the lowdown on the upsidedown approach to sealing a non new blade? (Let's suppose the blade is like new/undamaged, except that it already got to party with rubbers and glue.)
I believe that the blade must be protected from the water based glues, and if not sealing the blade will not last long time
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-UT...8&qid=1504702912&sr=1-1&keywords=polyurethane
This is an oil based wipe on poly. it seems to tick all the boxes. Do really need to dilute it further with oil? There are many poly based varnishes like this readily available in the UK.
Also, has anyone sealed with the intent of changing the playing characteristics? Is it possible to give 2-3 coats and get a faster blade without horribly diminishing the feel? in other words, is it just as effective as having a harder outer ply, or do you sacrifice more control for you speed that is gained?