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    1. Top | #41
      fifameister is offline
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      Good , I haven't watched game of throwns but I got the point ,

      Another interesting thing also about sealing the handle

      http://tabletennisjourney.com/sealin...ot-a-big-deal/

      So I guess I won't use any tt brand stuff and anything that's water based sealant, so am I looking for something called oil based sealant in europe or something else if I am understanding well from your sayings

      What product should I am be looking for which I can buy in europe and is relatively cheap and small capacity ?any ideas

      "The" moderator any suggestions ?

    2. Top | #42
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      Quote Originally Posted by fifameister View Post
      What product should I am be looking for which I can buy in europe and is relatively cheap and small capacity ?any ideas
      One good answer to your question is in the thread already. That is why I asked Jirrex to make this post.

      Quote Originally Posted by Jirrex View Post
      Carl, it was me indeed that attempted to make his own Wipe-On Poly.

      The thing is that Wipe-On Poly (from Minwax) isn't available in Europe and I didn't succeed to find a similar product from a different brand. After googling a bit, I found out that Minwax Wipe-On Poly was in fact a varnish from Polyurethane resin that had been thinned down with a solvent. So I bought a can of Polyurethane varnish and a bottle of mineral spirits (note that I bought an oil based varnish, not water based) and thinned down the varnish in a 1:1 ratio. With that ratio, you're able to apply a very thin layer and it still contains enough Polyurethane to 'seal' the blade. I did some tests on wood and I also 'sealed' a photo print made with an inkjet printer, which appeared to be waterproof afterwards.

      Because I was new to gluing rubbers, I did start over a few times. Removing the rubbers didn't cause any damage (of course this doesn't mean that without sealing it would have been otherwise) and all the glue sticked to the rubber.

      @shinshiro

      I hope this information is useful to you.
      I am sure any traditional wood sealant mixed with mineral spirits would work. If you want it as close to Wipe-On-Poly as you can get, you would just go to a hardware store and get a polyurethane wood sealant and mix it with mineral spirits as Jirrex describes.


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    4. Top | #43
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      But, if you were at a hardware store, all you really need to do is get any sealant that is traditional and has a warning about harmful fumes. Like this:






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    5. Top | #44
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      Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl View Post
      Yeah. Interesting. The Wipe-On-Poly costs about $10.00. $9.95 if I remember correctly. Given that I could seal another 300-400 more blades with that can and do a table and a chest of drawers too, perhaps I used $0.03¢ worth on the blade.

      Nobody has to seal there blades. And it is so cheap and easy to do that, really, anyone could do it, even without instructions. The Wipe-On-Poly just makes it so simple it is hard to mess up.

      And this is also why most TT websites offer FREE blade sealing when you buy a blade from them.

      But, to me, it is so easy that I don't see a reason to have someone else do it when I can do it exactly how I want in less than 4 min. With no cleanup. And the whole world able to view the video replay.

      All I actually did was put some Wipe-On-Poly on a folded paper towel and rub the wet part of the paper towel onto the wood so that I could see that all surface areas had sealant on them. Easy to see in person but it wouldn't show well on an NSA SpyPhone video.

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      Dude, my post was purely sarcastic, in the humorous spirit of your video.

    6. Top | #45
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      If you look on the numerous woodworking sites you will find that they recommend a equal part mixture of PU varnish; Teak or Linseed oil; and mineral spirit as a replacement for wipe on poly, in fact many make their own because they object to the price. I've used this mixture and it works great - goes on easy, gives protection and the oil nourishes the wood. Even with 2 coats you wouldn't perceive any difference in the way the blade plays. I've tested with and without and no-one has been able to spot any change - this includes some very very good players too.

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    8. Top | #46
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      The UpSideDown Method of Sealing Your Blade

      Quote Originally Posted by mlax View Post
      Dude, my post was purely sarcastic, in the humorous spirit of your video.
      Oh. Hahaha. Okay.

      Then it is actually pretty funny. And....you definitely got me. Which is even funnier.

      And it does go with the presentation.

      Sometimes I am slow on picking up other people's sarcastic humor in spite of loving to make posts just like yours.

      Thanks for the clarification.
      Last edited by UpSideDownCarl; 07-21-2017 at 04:18 PM.

    9. Top | #47
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      Quote Originally Posted by GinjaNinja View Post
      If you look on the numerous woodworking sites you will find that they recommend a equal part mixture of PU varnish; Teak or Linseed oil; and mineral spirit as a replacement for wipe on poly, in fact many make their own because they object to the price. I've used this mixture and it works great - goes on easy, gives protection and the oil nourishes the wood. Even with 2 coats you wouldn't perceive any difference in the way the blade plays. I've tested with and without and no-one has been able to spot any change - this includes some very very good players too.
      Does the Linseed oil mainly enriches the color of the wood or is there also a protecting effect?
      Spinny, Spinnier, Spinniest

    10. Top | #48
      GinjaNinja is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jirrex View Post
      Does the Linseed oil mainly enriches the color of the wood or is there also a protecting effect?
      It does both. It will offer some protection, not as much as a varnish and it will also darken the colour in the same way varnish tends to. I prefer teak oil as linseed can leave a yellow hue. I've expiremented with different amounts of spirit to vary how thick the varnish/oil is.
      I think the need to varnish depends on the grain and the finish of the wood/blade. If it's rough or the grain is pronounced there is more likelihood of the ply being lifted when you remove the rubber. However these are my findings for the blades I make rather than manufactured ones which use a different gluing and finishing process and it seems the quality varies depending on the company. I always varnish now, just to be safe more than anything else - plus I think the wood looks nicer!
      i think Carl's video is spot on but if you can't get wipe on poly then make your own, it really is easy to do.

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    12. Top | #49
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      The UpSideDown Method of Sealing Your Blade

      Quote Originally Posted by GinjaNinja View Post
      It does both. It will offer some protection, not as much as a varnish and it will also darken the colour in the same way varnish tends to. I prefer teak oil as linseed can leave a yellow hue. I've expiremented with different amounts of spirit to vary how thick the varnish/oil is.
      I think the need to varnish depends on the grain and the finish of the wood/blade. If it's rough or the grain is pronounced there is more likelihood of the ply being lifted when you remove the rubber. However these are my findings for the blades I make rather than manufactured ones which use a different gluing and finishing process and it seems the quality varies depending on the company. I always varnish now, just to be safe more than anything else - plus I think the wood looks nicer!
      i think Carl's video is spot on but if you can't get wipe on poly then make your own, it really is easy to do.
      This is great info. Thanks.

      I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

      I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

      For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

      What do you think?


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      Last edited by UpSideDownCarl; 07-21-2017 at 04:21 PM.

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    14. Top | #50
      Archosaurus is offline
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      Instructions unclear, solvent was not very tasty when ingested.

    15. Top | #51
      fifameister is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl View Post
      One good answer to your question is in the thread already. That is why I asked Jirrex to make this post.



      I am sure any traditional wood sealant mixed with mineral spirits would work. If you want it as close to Wipe-On-Poly as you can get, you would just go to a hardware store and get a polyurethane wood sealant and mix it with mineral spirits as Jirrex describes.


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      I saw this post but I passed it by because I don't want to make experiences with my new blade because it will be an 150€ blade
      I'm looking for something ready to do the business
      I can't trust hardware sellers also because they may haven't idea of how lightly sealing I need and haven't idea with tt blades ,so they will suggest something in general for multipurpose which maybe harm my blades characteristics

    16. Top | #52
      fifameister is offline
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      Oil based sealant or water based?

    17. Top | #53
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      Case in point , when I used to play cricket , we used to "season" newly bought cricket bats .... cricket bats are made of willow ... we would pierce the surface , put coats of linseed oil and then leave it out in the sun for a while , before knocking it with hammers or old cricket balls. the result was that the softness of the wood would be gone and it will become harder and crisper ....
      Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl View Post
      This is great info. Thanks.

      I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

      I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

      For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

      What do you think?


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    19. Top | #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl View Post
      This is great info. Thanks.

      I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

      I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

      For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

      What do you think?


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      Interesting point Carl, curious to GinjaNinja's take on this.

    20. Top | #55
      GinjaNinja is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl View Post
      This is great info. Thanks.

      I am wondering, with a TT blade, would you want the oil too? I know the different oils can function almost like a solvent to the Poly and a conditioner to the wood. But given that most wood rackets play better when dried out, would the oil, do something to the wood you wouldn't want?

      I think what I am talking about is also related to how, as an all wood blade ages, the wood gains feeling.

      For a cabinet or dresser, I would want the oil because it would keep the wood from drying out. With a TT blade, I am thinking you may not want the oil added.

      What do you think?


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      Really interesting point Carl, I can't claim to be an absolute expert on wood finishes but considering I've made and sealed 30 or so blades in the last 6 months often using different techniques, I'd consider myself experienced at least!

      In answer to your question I think a lot would depend on the amount used. When you oil floors and furniture you put on an excessively thick layer, let it soak in and then wipe of the excess after 15-30 mins - I would never do that with a blade. When you are adding oil to a blend it's a significantly smaller amount - i would imagine a 1/50th of the amount at the most. The mineral spirit effectively thins the mixture again diluting the amount. Also, oil is much much softer than PU varnish which often dries rock hard so I feel it softens the PU varnish a little too. What I would say is to let it fully dry out before attaching any rubbers - I give each one of my blades at least 5 days so that as much moisture evaporates as possible.
      Another way to look at this is that oil allows the wood to breathe whereas varnish or sealer is designed to seal the blade and therefore not let any moisture out. Personally i would never use varnish only.
      So for me anyway I would say adding oil allows the wood to breathe a little more and therefore let the moisture dissipate in addition to helping soften what can be a very hard varnish. I also like how oil gives a touch more depth to the colour of wood, which when I'm using aesthetically pleasing woods such as mahogany, walnut or rosewood is important to me. Like many things in life, table tennis being one of them, it's a matter of preference!

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    22. Top | #56
      GinjaNinja is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by fifameister View Post
      I saw this post but I passed it by because I don't want to make experiences with my new blade because it will be an 150€ blade
      I'm looking for something ready to do the business
      I can't trust hardware sellers also because they may haven't idea of how lightly sealing I need and haven't idea with tt blades ,so they will suggest something in general for multipurpose which maybe harm my blades characteristics
      If you are worried about it, increase the amount of mineral spirits as this will give you a thinner layer of varnish. Try two thirds MS to one third PU varnish. Spread the varnish really thinly, two thin even coats are better than one thick uneven layer.

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    24. Top | #57
      KM1976 is offline
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      Hi Carl, firstly thanks for sharing your experience and valuable info. However, I got the water based Minwax poly (since I read an old thread about blade sealing and I don't remember that being mentioned). I don't think that water based one should be causing any issues. Since after all we are applying a very thin coat of polyurethane.
      What do you think?
      Most of the times practice, patience and an observant mind answers all your questions

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    26. Top | #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by KM1976 View Post
      Hi Carl, firstly thanks for sharing your experience and valuable info. However, I got the water based Minwax poly (since I read an old thread about blade sealing and I don't remember that being mentioned). I don't think that water based one should be causing any issues. Since after all we are applying a very thin coat of polyurethane.
      What do you think?
      When it comes to protection, I think you're good with water based poly. However, on several woodworking forums and OOAK table tennis forum I've read that water based sealers raise the grain, so maybe you need to use a bit of sandpaper.

    27. Top | #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jirrex View Post
      When it comes to protection, I think you're good with water based poly. However, on several woodworking forums and OOAK table tennis forum I've read that water based sealers raise the grain, so maybe you need to use a bit of sandpaper.
      Currently I use water based TT sealer and I have noticed this.

      I have some questions about using water based TT sealants:

      1) Using sandpaper after sealing to make blade surface very smooth is something highly recommended? Is it too bad to leave it "unsanded"?
      2) If I light sand it, is there a chance to remove the sealer? (that is the main reason I'm afraid to sand after I seal)
      3) One coat of water TT sealant is enough or it is better to do two coats?

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    29. Top | #60
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      The UpSideDown Method of Sealing Your Blade

      Too many cooks.

      I have already given my answers. But perhaps a few more answers.

      I personally would never sand a blade after sealing. I see no reason.

      I personally don't want to use water based sealant. I see no reason. The stuff with the VOCs work well.

      I also am not quite following the idea of making the grain of the wood look more visually appealing when I am going to put rubbers on the blade and bang the edges till it starts looking more like a battle axe than an elegant piece of furniture.

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      Last edited by UpSideDownCarl; 07-21-2017 at 09:58 PM.

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