The UpSideDown Method of Sealing Your Blade

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It shouldn't be any different. Just make sure there is no glue on the surface of the blade face. You can probably use the palm of your hand to remove any stubborn excess glue. But usually there is very little if any.

No bothering getting glue out of the pores. No more worrying about boosting and re gluing. Deal!

After some right side up drying worked like a charm. Actually, looking at this more closely, it might have worked better than a literal charm.

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-UT...8&qid=1504702912&sr=1-1&keywords=polyurethane

This is an oil based wipe on poly. it seems to tick all the boxes. Do really need to dilute it further with oil? There are many poly based varnishes like this readily available in the UK.

Also, has anyone sealed with the intent of changing the playing characteristics? Is it possible to give 2-3 coats and get a faster blade without horribly diminishing the feel? in other words, is it just as effective as having a harder outer ply, or do you sacrifice more control for you speed that is gained?

I've used the exact same varnish but I find it's too thick and heavy to wipe on. Dilute with white spirit - 50/50 ratio - and it works great. For application just follow Carl's instructions.

For the answer to the question of whether to dilute that sealant, if you are trying to make a thin coat, see GinjaNinja's post.

If you are trying to make a thick sealing layer to make the blade harder, do not dilute it.

Blades like the NCT blades from Stiga use a thick layer of a kind of sealant to make the blade harder. The sealant they use is probably a little harder than the ones you have access to. But it is the same principle you are asking about.

I personally would just get a different blade if I wanted something harder and faster. But it can be done.

If you try and don't like how it feels, you can remove the sealant or simply get a blade you will like more.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
 
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This may be the best blade sealer: http://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff/.

I have several blades sealed with this "good stuff" by the supplier and never had a problem with moisture, splintering, or glue adhesion. The best part is that the sealer doesn't just sit on top of the blade but rather penetrates the wood and it doesn't change the feel of the blade. Not sure how it does that but it works amazingly...

If I'm not mistaken, that is the same sealer that Charlie from BBC uses on his blades. I think I have read that information on a thread at mytt
 
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For the answer to the question of whether to dilute that sealant, if you are trying to make a thin coat, see GinjaNinja's post.

If you are trying to make a thick sealing layer to make the blade harder, do not dilute it.

Blades like the NCT blades from Stiga use a thick layer of a kind of sealant to make the blade harder. The sealant they use is probably a little harder than the ones you have access to. But it is the same principle you are asking about.

I personally would just get a different blade if I wanted something harder and faster. But it can be done.

If you try and don't like how it feels, you can remove the sealant or simply get a blade you will like more.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

A key purpose of the thinner is to ensure the coat is more even, thick varnish is usually difficult to spread. If I was looking to get a thick coat of varnish on a blade, I would still use a diluted mix but use 3 coats and then try it. You can then add more if you wish.
 
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A key purpose of the thinner is to ensure the coat is more even, thick varnish is usually difficult to spread. If I was looking to get a thick coat of varnish on a blade, I would still use a diluted mix but use 3 coats and then try it. You can then add more if you wish.

Personal choice. I am confident I could use a brush and get even layers. If I was going for thicker, I would do one side of the blade at a time and let it dry before doing the other side.

It would take at least 12 hours per side so, a minimum of 3 days for three layers of sealant without thinning.

By doing one side at a time, it would allow you to let the sealant dry with the blade flat and the dry side facing down which would give you the most even layer. You would only need to do that if you did not thin the sealant. But it would work well if someone wanted a thicker layer.

Still, I would not recommend a thicker layer. I would recommend buying the blade you want rather than trying to make a blade faster by sealing with a thick layer.

[emoji2]


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Personal choice. I am confident I could use a brush and get even layers. If I was going for thicker, I would do one side of the blade at a time and let it dry before doing the other side.

It would take at least 12 hours per side so, a minimum of 3 days for three layers of sealant without thinning.

By doing one side at a time, it would allow you to let the sealant dry with the blade flat and the dry side facing down which would give you the most even layer. You would only need to do that if you did not thin the sealant. But it would work well if someone wanted a thicker layer.

Still, I would not recommend a thicker layer. I would recommend buying the blade you want rather than trying to make a blade faster by sealing with a thick layer.

[emoji2]


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

Slightly crossed wires here, I was referring to using some form of 'wipe on' varnish rather than brushing.
 
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Slightly crossed wires here, I was referring to using some form of 'wipe on' varnish rather than brushing.

Yes. Which is why I said, that if he wanted to put a thin coat, he should follow your directions. But he was also asking about putting a thicker coat with several layers. And I also answered that information. So, my wires were not crossed. But you may not have realized that I answered all of the questions he asked rather than just telling him you have to thin the sealant without giving any context. This was my basic answer.

1) If he wants to use that stuff for wiping on to get a thin layer, then your answer that he should dilute it is the answer.

2) If he wants a thicker layer than he may as well not dilute it.

Hopefully the numbers help.

I did not say how to apply it. But I figured any reasonable person would figure out one of several ways of applying that particular sealant that James Livesey linked to. If it is too thick to apply by wiping on, I personally would use a brush.

Are your wires still crossed. Here, read my original post and see if it makes more sense now:

For the answer to the question of whether to dilute that sealant, if you are trying to make a thin coat, see GinjaNinja's post.

If you are trying to make a thick sealing layer to make the blade harder, do not dilute it.

Blades like the NCT blades from Stiga use a thick layer of a kind of sealant to make the blade harder. The sealant they use is probably a little harder than the ones you have access to. But it is the same principle you are asking about.

I personally would just get a different blade if I wanted something harder and faster. But it can be done.

If you try and don't like how it feels, you can remove the sealant or simply get a blade you will like more.
 
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Yes. Which is why I said, that if he wanted to put a thin coat, he should follow your directions. But he was also asking about putting a thicker coat with several layers. And I also answered that information. So, my wires were not crossed. But you may not have realized that I answered all of the questions he asked rather than just telling him you have to thin the sealant without giving any context. This was my basic answer.

1) If he wants to use that stuff for wiping on to get a thin layer, then your answer that he should dilute it is the answer.

2) If he wants a thicker layer than he may as well not dilute it.

Hopefully the numbers help.

I did not say how to apply it. But I figured any reasonable person would figure out one of several ways of applying that particular sealant that James Livesey linked to. If it is too thick to apply by wiping on, I personally would use a brush.

Are your wires still crossed. Here, read my original post and see if it makes more sense now:


Carl, that's exactly what I meant - my wires were crossed, not yours. Apologies if that was unclear.
 
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Carl, that's exactly what I meant - my wires were crossed, not yours. Apologies if that was unclear.

I was pretty sure you were not saying my wires were crossed. I was just trying to emphasize the clarity of what I said and the distinction between the two options I had laid out.

But perhaps what I should have said was:

"Since my wires are not crossed, let me see if I can provide more clarity and get yours to straighten out a bit. [emoji2]

I still think thinning and using only a thin layer is the intelligent option. I am not recommending the thicker layers of sealant.

But I am not one to deny it as an option.


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I remember seeing some photo/video evidence that you were there ... may be Carl just brainwashed you ... he knows secret Oriental mind blowing techniques , beware !!!
Don't know what Carl was talking about... I never visited his secret Crack House #13 where he made this video and does surveillance ops on Tweekers... or did I ???!!!

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It could have been cold storage cell block #14a. Sometimes the coordinates make people believe that is crack house #13. Or, it could have just been a false lead that made people think safe house #9b was cold storage cell block #14a. :)

That is just some of what the NSA SpyPhone can do.
 
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So you had to use cold storage to house Der_Echte ... no wonder .. he is quite volatile
It could have been cold storage cell block #14a. Sometimes the coordinates make people believe that is crack house #13. Or, it could have just been a false lead that made people think safe house #9b was cold storage cell block #14a. :)

That is just some of what the NSA SpyPhone can do.
 
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They talking some weird noise about me on MyTT on the William BH Boss thread... and the thread is about a play 6 levels better than me...

Yet, the vid is filmed at the same table in Swan TTC where ttmonster saw one of my better matches... of course I had a few good BH moments on it.

As for the fake coordinates, ever since I suggested Carl plant a fake rare Pikachu at grid coordinates just past the trap door on the Krooklyn Bridge, Carl has been toying around with that strategy a lot.

Carl is having more fun than humans should be allowed.

Maybe I need to fly over there and fix him up with sum duct tape.
 
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@UpSideDownCarl you better watch out ... "He probably has more testosterone in one single chest hair than Chuck Norris has in his whole body."

They talking some weird noise about me on MyTT on the William BH Boss thread... and the thread is about a play 6 levels better than me...

Yet, the vid is filmed at the same table in Swan TTC where ttmonster saw one of my better matches... of course I had a few good BH moments on it.

As for the fake coordinates, ever since I suggested Carl plant a fake rare Pikachu at grid coordinates just past the trap door on the Krooklyn Bridge, Carl has been toying around with that strategy a lot.

Carl is having more fun than humans should be allowed.

Maybe I need to fly over there and fix him up with sum duct tape.
 
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