Table Tennis Blade Building Site

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 29, 2017

Hey all, I've started a site to keep track of my blade builds, and to act as a creative outlet for myself.

All the information is completely free and I'm updating it often. This isn't intended as spam, there is nothing to join, no ads, and nothing to pay for. I just like sharing information. If this post isn't allowed though, please remove it admins.

You can check out my work here:
www.thewoodenblade.com

If you have ideas for posts, content, or anything really, please comment below!!

Here are some pictures of a recent build I did:

Cheers,
TWB

UpSideDownCarl · Aug 29, 2017

Here, have a look at bobpul's thread:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?11808-Create-your-own-blade

bobpuls has done a lot to show people how to make blades. And there are several other highly skilled blade makers here on TTDaily.

bobpuls said:
Here is first video of series
Make your own blade at home.

update:
ok for this compositions i have used :
first ply it was actually already preglued 3 ply`s veneers of poplar 0.8mm
second was the core 4mm balsa standard weight
then carbon layer
and the final it was mahogany ply 0.6 mm
the white/yelow glue is D2 wood glue (water base ) for dynamic connections (like rocking chair or etc. ) which is better for keeping the wood dynamic characteristics
the second transparent glue is epoxy glue ....

this is actually second version of the blade ... before it was used 6mm light balsa core which was by the customer reviewed ass little bit small response wood. so he decide this 4mm change .
one think you have to count in more layers blade which are glued with water based glue ... the wood get wet , soft and it starts to curling after a while .... so be careful
before you are applying the final pressure.

Ok here is the second part ... Cutting

I was using Makita 3709 Trimmer with home made simple table ....
Please if you will try to cut it by your self ... feed the router counter clockwise like i have started ...
do not feed it clock wise (like i have ) because if you not hold it hard enough the bit will "eat it" and you will destroy the blade and you can loose some of your fingers or other injury can happen .
As you can see the hardest part is to remove protective sheet from the double sided duct tape... ;-)
video is 1.5 time faster then original time
And i forgot to show you how to remove the template .... do not try to tear it from the blade ... just cut the duck tape in the middle with knife and then with fingers friction movement get rid of the duck tape ... then just sanding of the edges ... and it is done and ready for next step.
And do not do it in closed room .. as you can see it is very dusty .... i have to do it because outside was raining and customer is not patient enough ...
I forgot to mention the templates .... I drew the templates in ilustrator and exported it into .DXF and .DWG files .. then i have them watercut for 13 Euro ... into 1 cm komatex . the handle has separated template ... which is at the front and the end larger ....
Hope you like it

update 3
here are the final steps to finish the blade...

update ...
gluing of another blade with carbon and off + speed

OK here is video of handle triming as many of you have asked about this step.
It is safer now but still dangerous so be careful.

A new video of handle making ....whole process

Ok here is dxf template for blade and handle ...Use it for free . Design is made by me and from customer reviews .
Dimensions of the blade are : 150,5mm * 255mm
Handle dimensions are : 100mm to 103mm

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8yud-7O7oQ3UTZFMDRqOWFhNTA/view?usp=sharing

Here is list of shops for wood and composite materials:

Veneers:
https://veneer-world.com/en/B2C/Veneers (located in Austria)
https://www.top-wood.com (location: maybe France )
https://www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk/wood-store/wood-veneers/ (Located in UK)
http://oakdalecrafts.co.uk/ (located in UK)
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/ebay/_terms.htm (US Only shipping)

Core woods and woods for handles:
http://www.modellbau-classic.de/de/category-4/ (located in Germany)
http://arkowood-shop.com/Hoelzer/Holzbrettchen/Holzbrettchen-100-x-1000-mm/ (located in Germany)
http://www.alwayshobbies.com (Located in UK)

Carbon / Aramidcarbon fabric :
http://www.havel-composites.com/ (Located in Czech Republic)
http://shop1.r-g.de (located in Germany)

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 29, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
Here, have a look at bobpul's thread:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?11808-Create-your-own-blade

bobpuls has done a lot to show people how to make blades. And there are several other highly skilled blade makers here on TTDaily.

Very cool.

I'm sure there are many skilled blade makers on your forum!! My post wasn't intended to suggest otherwise.

Giangt · Aug 29, 2017

TheWoodenBlade said:
Very cool.

I'm sure there are many skilled blade makers on your forum!! My post wasn't intended to suggest otherwise.

welcome to TTD. We are looking forward to see your post of your creative abilities manufacturing blades.

UpSideDownCarl · Aug 29, 2017

TheWoodenBlade said:
Very cool.

I'm sure there are many skilled blade makers on your forum!! My post wasn't intended to suggest otherwise.

I just thought you might be interested. And I am sure there are people who will be interested in your site and what you can add to the forum with your posts.

GinjaNinja · Aug 29, 2017

TheWoodenBlade said:
Hey all, I've started a site to keep track of my blade builds, and to act as a creative outlet for myself.

All the information is completely free and I'm updating it often. This isn't intended as spam, there is nothing to join, no ads, and nothing to pay for. I just like sharing information. If this post isn't allowed though, please remove it admins.

You can check out my work here:
www.thewoodenblade.com

If you have ideas for posts, content, or anything really, please comment below!!

Here are some pictures of a recent build I did:

View attachment 14056 View attachment 14057

Cheers,
TWB

some very beautiful woods on show. Nice work. Any feedback on how they play?

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 29, 2017

GinjaNinja said:
TheWoodenBlade said:

Hey all, I've started a site to keep track of my blade builds, and to act as a creative outlet for myself.

All the information is completely free and I'm updating it often. This isn't intended as spam, there is nothing to join, no ads, and nothing to pay for. I just like sharing information. If this post isn't allowed though, please remove it admins.

You can check out my work here:
www.thewoodenblade.com

If you have ideas for posts, content, or anything really, please comment below!!

Here are some pictures of a recent build I did:

View attachment 14056 View attachment 14057

Cheers,
TWB

some very beautiful woods on show. Nice work. Any feedback on how they play?

Click to expand...

Unfortunately not yet! This was part of a set I made that was a gift. The blades prior were test pieces to develop the process.

I was thinking for a future build, to give it away to a more skilled player on one of the forums who would be willing to write an honest review, and give me feedback to further develop my building skills. Just a thought.

UpSideDownCarl · Aug 29, 2017

Is there any logic behind the plies you use and what kind of feeling and playing characteristics you are trying to achieve with the blades you make?

When you use the blades you make, how do the different ply constructions feel to you? How about the gluing process? Have you tried different gluing processes to see how that would affect the way the blades feel when you play them?

bobpuls · Aug 29, 2017

Hi ,and welcome ... it is always appreciated when you share knowledge with others.

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 29, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
Is there any logic behind the plies you use and what kind of feeling and playing characteristics you are trying to achieve with the blades you make?

When you use the blades you make, how do the different ply constructions feel to you? How about the gluing process? Have you tried different gluing processes to see how that would affect the way the blades feel when you play them?

I played a lot in my early 20's, and play during the school year recreationally. I'm not going to try and pretend I have a lot of knowledge, I simply do not. What little knowledge I do have comes from reading on the various forums... and I'm hoping from others who would be willing to review my work.

As for the gluing process, I have to use epoxy. Where I am in Canada the humidity is so high that PVA glue takes a very long time to cure (several days). I find that epoxy cures in a reasonable time frame, and cures hard. So I have opted even for all wood laminations to only use epoxy.

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 29, 2017

bobpuls said:
Hi ,and welcome ... it is always appreciated when you share knowledge with others.

Thanks man. It's what I'm all about, freely sharing knowledge!!

GinjaNinja · Aug 29, 2017

TheWoodenBlade said:
I played a lot in my early 20's, and play during the school year recreationally. I'm not going to try and pretend I have a lot of knowledge, I simply do not. What little knowledge I do have comes from reading on the various forums... and I'm hoping from others who would be willing to review my work.

As for the gluing process, I have to use epoxy. Where I am in Canada the humidity is so high that PVA glue takes a very long time to cure (several days). I find that epoxy cures in a reasonable time frame, and cures hard. So I have opted even for all wood laminations to only use epoxy.

For me, the type of glue is hugely important. It changes the way the blade plays and feels as much, if not more, than the type of wood used. For example. limba with PVA glue plays far too soft with too many vibrations and completely different than limba with harder glue types such as epoxy. Based on my experience and feedback from others I don't think PVA works unless you use harder wood types such as rosewood or wenge and even then, other glues work better. I've recently changed the type of glue I use and first impressions are extremely positive. I'll provide an update and details elsewhere when I've completed testing.
By the way - welcome!
My advice would be to learn as much as you can from Bobpuls and MDP, also to get very good players to test your blades as most lower level amateurs struggle to give valuable feedback, research into what manufacturers (big and small) produce and then enjoy. It's a wonderful hobby and when i lose to someone who is playing with one of my blades I figure it's not all bad!

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 29, 2017

GinjaNinja said:
For me, the type of glue is hugely important. It changes the way the blade plays and feels as much, if not more, than the type of wood used. For example. limba with PVA glue plays far too soft with too many vibrations and completely different than limba with harder glue types such as epoxy. Based on my experience and feedback from others I don't think PVA works unless you use harder wood types such as rosewood or wenge and even then, other glues work better. I've recently changed the type of glue I use and first impressions are extremely positive. I'll provide an update and details elsewhere when I've completed testing.
By the way - welcome!
My advice would be to learn as much as you can from Bobpuls and MDP, also to get very good players to test your blades as most lower level amateurs struggle to give valuable feedback, research into what manufacturers (big and small) produce and then enjoy. It's a wonderful hobby and when i lose to someone who is playing with one of my blades I figure it's not all bad!

I'm glad PVA hasn't worked well for you, because it's just horrible to work with where I am. I'm much more a woodworker than a table tennis player, so I'm dependent on others for feedback.

I look forward to hear the reviews of your new glue! Please keep me informed of that adventure!

UpSideDownCarl · Aug 30, 2017

Okay, so, up to now, you have been focused mostly on how to make the blades look like blades and look like beautiful blades. But you are not really thinking about what different gluing processes give you, what plies go well with other plies, thickness of outer ply, middle plies, core, how different head sizes and shapes affect how the blade plays....etc.

So, the craftsmanship part is what you have been interested in, as of now, and things like how you can kind of make woodworking magic with cool quarter sawn plies that have beautiful grain patterns, rather than ideas for how to make the blades have specific playing characteristics.

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 30, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
Okay, so, up to now, you have been focused mostly on how to make the blades look like blades and look like beautiful blades. But you are not really thinking about what different gluing processes give you, what plies go well with other plies, thickness of outer ply, middle plies, core, how different head sizes and shapes affect how the blade plays....etc.

So, the craftsmanship part is what you have been interested in, as of now, and things like how you can kind of make woodworking magic with cool quarter sawn plies that have beautiful grain patterns, rather than ideas for how to make the blades have specific playing characteristics.

Correct, because as I have said, I lack the necessary knowledge in that regard. I'm dependent on others to give me feedback to direct my blade building. I have no intention of selling blades, simply making them for my own enjoyment and creative outlet. I'm much more a woodworker than a table tennis player (currently), and I've never claimed to be anything I'm not.

If you have ideas that you think would be good in terms of plies and substrates, I'm all ears.

BeGo · Aug 30, 2017

TheWoodenBlade said:
Correct, because as I have said, I lack the necessary knowledge in that regard. I'm dependent on others to give me feedback to direct my blade building. I have no intention of selling blades, simply making them for my own enjoyment and creative outlet. I'm much more a woodworker than a table tennis player (currently), and I've never claimed to be anything I'm not.

If you have ideas that you think would be good in terms of plies and substrates, I'm all ears.

I suggest start by recreating Der Echte Beast Mode blade. This design are sought after by many TT players in this forum. [emoji6]

Note.

I remember my last self project,

To create extreme beast mode blade version from description by Der Echte somewhere in this forum.

The main idea is to shift the centre of gravity into the handle, which I failed in my last project; I can only get as close as 1 cm above the handle with 2 H3 sheet and around 60 g of lead tape on the handle. The blade size is chopper sized 17 cm * 16 cm with 120 mm straight handle,

Now that project still postponed, cause I don't have enough fund nor good partner in Indonesia to continue this project. [emoji28]

I shall restart this project when I am ready financially. [emoji6]

Sent from my i5E using Tapatalk

langel · Aug 30, 2017

What is your opinion about natural glues?
As they are thinner and softer, they can fit plys more close to each other, better preserving woods natural characteristics, providing better consistancy, feel and control. I think it is very well achieved with Xiom Vega blades.
Or maybe natural glue is harder to use on DIY blades?
I've never tryed to craft a DIY.

GinjaNinja · Aug 30, 2017

BeGo said:
I suggest start by recreating Der Echte Beast Mode blade. This design are sought after by many TT players in this forum. [emoji6]

Note.

I remember my last self project,

To create extreme beast mode blade version from description by Der Echte somewhere in this forum.

The main idea is to shift the centre of gravity into the handle, which I failed in my last project; I can only get as close as 1 cm above the handle with 2 H3 sheet and around 60 g of lead tape on the handle. The blade size is chopper sized 17 cm * 16 cm with 120 mm straight handle,

Now that project still postponed, cause I don't have enough fund nor good partner in Indonesia to continue this project. [emoji28]

I shall restart this project when I am ready financially. [emoji6]

Sent from my i5E using Tapatalk

It's quite easy to create a heavy handle, just use heavier woods. It's harder to produce lighter handles when using higher quality hardwoods as you have to hollow them out. By selecting the right material you could add 10 or 15g of weight to an average 85g blade and also have some very attractive wood too such as Rosewood, ebony, olive etc

TheWoodenBlade · Aug 30, 2017

GinjaNinja said:
It's quite easy to create a heavy handle, just use heavier woods. It's harder to produce lighter handles when using higher quality hardwoods as you have to hollow them out. By selecting the right material you could add 10 or 15g of weight to an average 85g blade and also have some very attractive wood too such as Rosewood, ebony, olive etc

Exactly, but what I'm confused about here is that if one wanted to shift the center of gravity upward on a blade... why increase the weight of the handle? Wouldn't that shift the center of gravity down the blade?

UpSideDownCarl · Aug 30, 2017

TheWoodenBlade said:
Exactly, but what I'm confused about here is that if one wanted to shift the center of gravity upward on a blade... why increase the weight of the handle? Wouldn't that shift the center of gravity down the blade?

You are going to have to read the thread to understand what putting the extra weight in the handle can do for you. Der_Echte and I have actually tried it on several different blades and tested the difference, before and after and compared the weighted handle to the original, head heavy blade.

When a blade starts out with a hollow handle and then the hollow handle is filled and some extra weight is added to bring the center of gravity more towards the handle, the blade always plays better, and actually feels lighter even though we added anywhere from 10 to 30 grams in different blades.

Here is the thread:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?9048-Re-Building-the-BEAST

Read it and see if any of it makes sense.

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