Boosting H3 NEO National

ajtatosmano2 · Sep 19, 2017

yuri.saldon said:
Yesterday when I tested h3neo boosted with less effort was generating more speed and spin different to the general concept that requires a large stroke and more power. Include when I was late it was easier to put the ball on the table. It as definitely faster compared to my racket.

I'm using BO2 with mx-p, h3 neo was in ovctharov true carbon.

Sent from my 2014819 using Tapatalk

And you boost MX-P or Tenergy? They are much better with booster: faster, spinnier.
You don't have to play with large strokes to be fairly effective with a boosted H3. But if you do, you will get even better spin and speed.
And even a boosted H3 only faster on loops, not on passive or weaker shots.

kuko61 · Sep 19, 2017

I have two questions about the boost effect duration.

1. How long keep the boosted rubber boost effect, when I play with it, and how long, when I do not play with it? Is there a difference? If the boost effect disappears sooner on a frequently used blade, how much sooner?

2. When I have boosted rubber, but I do not have a free blade for gluing, can I "archive" the rubber in such a way that the boost effect remains as long as possible?
I was thinking to use vacuum sealer. Should it make sense?

Thank you

ajtatosmano2 · Sep 19, 2017

kuko61 said:
I have two questions about the boost effect duration.

1. How long keep the boosted rubber boost effect, when I play with it, and how long, when I do not play with it? If the boost effect disappears sooner on a frequently used racket, how much sooner?

2. When I have boosted rubber, but I do not have a free blade for gluing, can I "archive" the rubber in such a way that the boost effect remains as long as possible?
I was thinking to use vacuum sealer. Should it make sense?

Thank you

I believe a vacuum sealer should do the work. Factory boosted rubbers often come in vacuum package, so...

SFF_lib · Sep 19, 2017

ajtatosmano2 said:
It's because of the coaches. In Europe the coaches give euro-style rubbers for the kids. They haven't trained with tacky rubbers, so they don't teach using it (it makes sense though). I've heard multiple times, that chinese-style rubbers need more power and european players don't have enough power! The same for multiball: you can see that in chinese multiball videos the players go through 30-50 ball before stopping. An instructor on a coaches' vocational training said that 'you can't do that with european players.'
Endurance training should be taken more seriously. Kids might do physical training at home just like school homework.

European kids are way stronger than Asian kids. They would have no problem playing tacky rubber if it is popular in Europe.

But yeah like you said coaches are familiar with non tacky rubber.

Passionate about TT

ajtatosmano2 · Sep 19, 2017

SFF_lib said:
European kids are way stronger than Asian kids. They would have no problem playing tacky rubber if it is popular in Europe.

But yeah like you said coaches are familiar with non tacky rubber.

Passionate about TT

It's more about endurance than strength, but you're right. Insanity to say 'you can't do this with an european player'!
Asians aren't born with such endurance, they train. And physical training can be done anywhere and can be done smart, so it won't take too much time. Just matter of persistence and will.

Suga D · Sep 20, 2017

ajtatosmano2 said:
of persistence and will.

MaLongSenpai · Sep 21, 2017

Chen Chen said:
Unfortunately I have used the falco before and a couple of time I even mixed falco with haifu oil together at the early time. I haven't tried the kailin oil yet. I guess all the booster are the same, the key point is the glue. How many layers of glue do you put between rubber and blade on FH? Which brand? May I ask? Chinese sponge is different from the western one. Western rubbers - you only need to put two layers between rubber and blade. You can imagine if you brush or hit something on hard surface, it will have higher chance to get broken than the softer one. By the way, the hardest orange sponge is 40 degree and some blue sponge with player's name stamp is 42.5 degree. Blue sponge is harder than orange one at the same degree and less flexible. Plus you already made the sponge expand after you put the oil on. Hope you can get what I am trying to say.

Thankfully the bubbles subsided and the rubber is playing well. I quite like Falco but I do intend to switch to (probably Kailin) or Dianchi, but most likely Kailin to be honest. Depending on the amount of booster I have used. On the most recent occasion, I used 2 layers of Nittaku FineZip on the FH rubber and 1 / 2 layers on the blade itself. 42.5 degree must be insane! I would love to try a heavily boosted 41 degree plus rubber on a Long 5 but there wouldn't be a point in spending so much on it as I wouldn't use it often. And yes, thank you for the post it was helpful and I did indeed understand what you were trying to say.

Mumon · Sep 21, 2017

@suga @carl

why do we wait untill the rubber has flattened out again after bending before glueing it to the blade? dont we want the rubber with the extended sponge on it? thats the only part about boosting i still dont understand.

peace!

UpSideDownCarl · Sep 21, 2017

Mumon said:
@suga @carl

why do we wait untill the rubber has flattened out again after bending before glueing it to the blade? dont we want the rubber with the extended sponge on it? thats the only part about boosting i still dont understand.

peace!

I have to be honest with you. I am not sure I am a good resource for techniques for boosting.

I have not boosted in years. Part of the reason I stopped using H3 years ago is that I did not want to bother with the hassle of boosting.

But when I used to boost, I would use the old glue with the VOCs and I would boost with a cocktail of oils, a mix of VOC and non VOC oils.

I would glue first. Then I would add the boost. And I would try to attach the rubber to the blade before the rubber had fully curled.

Sometimes it worked really well. Sometimes the rubber would keep coming up and ungluing for a few days. A few times I was forced to pull the rubber off and wait till some of the booster had evaporated before I could glue properly.

But in my head, I wanted the rubber on the blade while as much of the oils as possible were still in the rubber.

I am not sure I was correct. And the booster oils they have now may be better than what I was doing. But most of the time, what I did worked and the effect lasted for about a month before I needed to reboost.

I know someone who boosts with Haifu Oil who just puts the layers he wants on and then puts the rubber on as soon after as he can. He feels it works. But it might be worth comparing the feel of the rubber after each technique.

Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

ajtatosmano2 · Sep 21, 2017

Suga D said:
View attachment 14256

Yeah, I've used that word intentionally

Mumon · Sep 21, 2017

UpSideDownCarl said:
I have to be honest with you. I am not sure I am a good resource for techniques for boosting.

I have not boosted in years. Part of the reason I stopped using H3 years ago is that I did not want to bother with the hassle of boosting.

But when I used to boost, I would use the old glue with the VOCs and I would boost with a cocktail of oils, a mix of VOC and non VOC oils.

I would glue first. Then I would add the boost. And I would try to attach the rubber to the blade before the rubber had fully curled.

Sometimes it worked really well. Sometimes the rubber would keep coming up and ungluing for a few days. A few times I was forced to pull the rubber off and wait till some of the booster had evaporated before I could glue properly.

But in my head, I wanted the rubber on the blade while as much of the oils as possible were still in the rubber.

I am not sure I was correct. And the booster oils they have now may be better than what I was doing. But most of the time, what I did worked and the effect lasted for about a month before I needed to reboost.

I know someone who boosts with Haifu Oil who just puts the layers he wants on and then puts the rubber on as soon after as he can. He feels it works. But it might be worth comparing the feel of the rubber after each technique.

Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

now im confused since every source told me to wait till it flattens. I need answers!! I call upon thee CNT!!

maybe chen chen can tell me

UpSideDownCarl · Sep 21, 2017

Mumon said:
now im confused since every source told me to wait till it flattens. I need answers!! I call upon thee CNT!!

maybe chen chen can tell me

Yep. Every source I've seen describes a process that takes days.

But remember, when I was boosting, I was not bothering with WB glue. And I was not using stuff that was VOC free. So what I did has little to do with what most people on the site do.

All of which adds up to my statement about me not being a good source for methods of boosting.

Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy

yuri.saldon · Sep 21, 2017

I think the reason to waits to flatten it's to be easier to glue.

I've never boosted hurricane 3 or used TT booster but my experience with mineral oil and European rubber showed that was near to impossible keep a very curled rubber in the blade.

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Mumon · Sep 21, 2017

yuri.saldon said:
I think the reason to waits to flatten it's to be easier to glue.

I've never boosted hurricane 3 or used TT booster but my experience with mineral oil and European rubber showed that was near to impossible keep a very curled rubber in the blade.

Sent from my 2014819 using Tapatalk

that seems unlikely since i once glued a rubber to my blade which I had boosted into the form of a roll...and it stuck without problems

yuri.saldon · Sep 21, 2017

Maybe it's my bad gluing technique. But I've been take care to not over curled my rubbers.

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ajtatosmano2 · Sep 21, 2017

Mumon said:
that seems unlikely since i once glued a rubber to my blade which I had boosted into the form of a roll...and it stuck without problems

Then you used a strong glue. I can't glue rubbers curled into a half roll. But I use Revolution No.3, which isn't a strong glue.

So, the rubber should have a slight dome. When you think that it will stuck on blade, try to glue it. If gluing doesn't go well, wait more and use another layer.

OhWell · Sep 21, 2017

yuri.saldon said:
I think the reason to waits to flatten it's to be easier to glue.

Besides being easier to glue, AFAIK letting the rubber flatten lowers the chances of damaging the rubber, and increases the rubber's longevity.

As for why that is, this blog post is helpful (boosters are discussed towards the end, but the whole thing helps understand what's happening): https://thoughtsontabletennis.wordpress.com/2015/03/09/introduction-to-table-tennis-chemistry/

ajtatosmano2 · Sep 21, 2017

And if you overboosted the rubber and it doesn't want to flatten, apply a little baby oil or paraffine oil on the topsheet. A few droplet is enough. This isn't recommended as it softens the topsheet, but still better than an unusable rubber. It can be used as a rubber revitalizing technique, because it gives more grip to the rubber, but after the effect wears out (time differs from rubber to rubber, but max. 1 month) the throw angle will decrease a little or more, depending on the topsheet's softness and the amount of oil you used. It's good when you ordered a new sheet, but there is still a few sessions till the replacement arrives.

OhWell · Sep 21, 2017

ajtatosmano2 said:
Then you used a strong glue. I can't glue rubbers curled into a half roll. But I use Revolution No.3, which isn't a strong glue.

So, the rubber should have a slight dome. When you think that it will stuck on blade, try to glue it. If gluing doesn't go well, wait more and use another layer.

Which viscosity of revo 3 do you use for the boosted rubbers?

I must admit, Revo no 3 is so not strong that it won't let me glue a boosted neo with a slight dome because my current apartment is too humid!

(Which is a helpful clue: I do need to move out... Who knew a TT glue could reveal that? It may not be the stickiest adhesive, but revo no 3 has quite a few secret powers.)

ajtatosmano2 · Sep 21, 2017

OhWell said:
Which viscosity of revo 3 do you use for the boosted rubbers?

I must admit, Revo no 3 is so not strong that it won't let me glue a boosted neo with a slight dome because my current apartment is too humid! (Which is a helpful clue: I do need to move out... Who knew a TT glue could reveal that? It may not be the stickiest adhesive, but revo no 3 has quite a few secret powers.)

I use normal viscosity.
I think you should press the rubber for a few hours, preferably over night. And you might use a hair drier to be sure the glue is dry. And you also might want to apply one more thin layer over that you normally use, to make sure it's enough.

Boosting H3 NEO National

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