Restoring Tackiness

Should I try?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 35.7%
  • No

    Votes: 8 57.1%
  • just try a little bit

    Votes: 1 7.1%

  • Total voters
    14
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I have a client who is a trader. He had 100s of stock reports that had these covers. I just took the covers and chucked the reports. [emoji2]


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Nice.

Yeah i'm looking for something of the thickness or rigidity of those old overhead projector type films. but seems like actually finding those old things is getting harder and harder considering nobody uses those anymore. ;)
 
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says Spin and more spin.
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Nice.

Yeah i'm looking for something of the thickness or rigidity of those old overhead projector type films. but seems like actually finding those old things is getting harder and harder considering nobody uses those anymore. ;)

Shoot me a PM.


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Some time ago out of curiosity I've tried olive oil on my H3 neo. The condition of the rubber was ok, I'd say it was in the second part of it's lifetime, but still some weeks could be played with it. So my impression were such as I didn't notice any good changes to my rubber. Maybe on the contrary, my first feeling was that it seemed somewhat a tiny bit slippery when I brushed the ball on the surface... if I pressed it a little bit, the rubber felt as it was before. But maybe that's my imagination, because generally, as I said, I didn't notice any bigger difference.

I think it would be interesting to try wd40 on it. so maybe I'll do it by the end of rubbers life cycle


It's an interesting idea and an economical solution to use report covers for rubber protection (I find specialized covers a little bit overpriced for such a simple thing in essence). I am using non tacky film for my H3 Neo and nothing on my Donic Bluefire. I could imagine using report cover on neo, but it's hard to imagine report cover sticking to european rubbers. So thumbs up for the video demonstration :) and I'll be going to buy a report cover to the stationary shop to try it
 
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Here is the video. What it shows is that, if the non-adhesive cover is pressed on well, it will stick to the topsheet of a non-tacky rubber adequately. It won’t stick like it will with a tacky rubber but it will grip.

The rubbers on this blade are Nexy Karis. It sticks pretty well to my racket with MXP as well. And when I used to use T05 it did about the same.

You can hear, as I pull the sheets off, that the rubber is grabbing the topsheet a little.


Also the sponge is damp but very lightly damp. And the air in Brooklyn is dry enough that, as I put the sheets back on the rubber is already dry.

But you can also see that the covers were stuck on more fully when they came out of my racket case than they were after I reapplied them.

So, when they are pressed on well and stay on for a while the rubber grabs the plastic sheet slightly harder if it is clean.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
 
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Alright everybody... I found the culprit of why my racket isn't sticky anymore...

I have two rackets with hurricane 3 rubber on it, and, one rubber is VERY tacky and the other, well... I cleaned it with STIGA rubber cleaner... which MADE IT NOT TACKY! WHy???? on the one that hasn't been cleaned, the ball sticks to the racket for like ONE WHOLE SECOND and one the UNCLEANED one the ball barely sticks?? Somebody plz help?!
 
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Another "miracle" cleaner I've heard (didn't try) is called Spinmax http://spinmax.oneofakindtrading.com.au/Products.php


spinmax_aqueous.jpg
 
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I can attest that the mineral oil trick works better than revolution bio cleaner once normal cleaning with distilled or soft water and a soft sponge aren't good enough.

When my rubber lost its tack, I put three layers of hair clipper oil, which I presume is mineral oil, and it absorbed into the rubber like magic!

After that, it easily picks up and holds a ball again! Now all I need is a soft sponge, as perhaps the paper towels I was using are too abrasive.

Next time it loses its tackiness, I plan to try what the first guy suggested though. Put on the protective film before it dries after water cleaning.
 
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Next time it loses its tackiness, I plan to try what the first guy suggested though. Put on the protective film before it dries after water cleaning.
You should be doing this every time, now....not next time. Even if you just got the tackiness back, after you use, after there has been dust on the topsheet, you clean the topsheet with WATER and put the plastic sheet on top of the rubber. The clean topsheet being covered with something like a plastic sheet will cause the tackiness of the outer layer to increase.

What causes the tackiness to go away is usually the dust clinging to the topsheet.

That is....unless you wear a dead spot (flat spot....slick spot) in the topsheet. There was a post by Igor Ponger that implied this. The top layer that is tacky is thin. If you pull it off from heavy contact in the same spot over and over, you can wear a dead spot (a slick spot) in the topsheet of a tacky rubber. But that is different than if the whole topsheet has lost its tackiness. And you need to have fairly descent impact power to wear a dead spot like I am describing into the topsheet of an H3.

Still, if you do that, and put oil on the dead spot and left the topsheet covered with a plastic sheet for about a month, you could get some of the tack back in the dead spot.

 
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Turns out the oil I used meant for hair clippers is petroleum distillate rather than mineral oil. Only difference is that mineral oil is distilled out of crude at a higher temperature.

I just now tried it on a six month old Victas V-15. Three coats and it's slightly sticky, lifting the ball, but not holding at all like the h3n did-- a definite improvement though.
 
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