Is there a necessity to switch from BTY Primorac or just EJing?

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Why not upgrade the rubber if you want something faster?

I'm not sure if just faster rubbers is the answer. I wanted more aggressive spin in my attacks and being able to do those attacks with easier shorter movements.

Also consider doing physical training for improving footwork. Jump rope helps a lot.

I'm already doing squats and recently started adding jump rope to my exercises, doing sets of 100s.
 
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I agree with who suggested to work first on your technique / footwork.
You have some good basic skills, but still you don't move as much as you should. The footwork is a bit poor, and you do not provide enough legs support to your strokes. It's like watching myself :D

And that's why I stopped chasing rubbers and blades, by focusing first on my body and strokes execution.
I have quite a good racket (Timo Boll ALC + Xiom rubbers), but I know it's time to improve all the rest:p

In the end, we adapt ourselves to our equipment, not the opposite. So, changing stuff, will not make you better.
Once you adapted to your new racket, you will make same mistakes you were used to:D
 
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You're like a better version of me :D :D. Good serves, good backhand, too much anticipation and lack of footwork and too tall for table tennis :D . I also use an allwood blade with Vega Pro

I also really like the Vega Pro. I really like the spin that it generates. However, I use something a bit softer on the backhand. With your power, I would recommend sticking with the Vega Pro if you find it ok. It's not that easy to use but it's damn predictable. I know that if I reach a ball with my forehand and have some weight transfer, I can spin the ball back onto the table.

Your racket is usually in the right place but your feet aren't in position from what others have seen. I want to share a Mantra that someone told me. "Zuerst bewegen, dann schlagen!" (first move, then hit). You have more time than you think. I keep reminding myself to do the same thing when I find myself planted to the ground.


I think shadow training is a great way to improve footwork. You can just visualize the ball and really focus on technique and footwork. I recommend Brian Pace's DVD but there are other tutorials online. I always do this before important matches and it helps to get me moving.

I think someone said that the Vega Asia DF is around as hard as the Vega Pro but I couldn't disagree more. Vega Asia DF is markedly softer with a much lower throw. You will have difficulty adjusting to it.

Last year I used the softer Vega Europe DF on my forehand for a couple of months on the advice of a trainer to try something softer, which was admittedly not good for my TTR because the spin and speed of my first topspin was not nearly as good but it helped me play a more rally oriented kind of game and it was much more forgiving if you are in the wrong position so it got me moving a bit. The throw is also higher than that of the Vega Asia DF.

Another tip is trying to stay on your toes and do as many small jumps (like the pros) as possible in your shadow training and in practice. Eventually it will translate to your league matches.
 
I agree with who suggested to work first on your technique / footwork.

Once you adapted to your new racket, you will make same mistakes you were used to:D

It may be true, but it may be not, so I can't agree with this.

Finding personal synergy with one setup out of all is a difficult thing, a matter of time and experience, but if you go the right way every next step will reveal new capabilities and much more pleasure and and effectiveness.
 
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It may be true, but it may be not, so I can't agree with this.

Finding personal synergy with one setup out of all is a difficult thing, a matter of time and experience, but if you go the right way every next step will reveal new capabilities and much more pleasure and and effectiveness.
I meant : you do a FH topspin in a certain way -> you upgrade your setup -> you adjust your strokes based on your new gear. The way you execute your FH topsin didn't change much, simply adjust it a bit due to new rubber/blade.

If your movement wasn't right, it still isn't right. Even with a great brand new high end racket.
 
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Well, if you are keeping your setup with the Primorac, that is a good plan. It seems to have been right for you.

As far as working on footwork, you would be amazed how much shadow stroke+footwork drills can help your footwork improve.

You can work on footwork and stroke mechanics on and off the table.

Blades that are a step up from YOUR Primorac. There are tons. But you have to understand. The Korbel and the Primorac are much more close than most blades can be.

It is the same wood plies, from the same company, treated and glued the same way: The main differences are very small.

1) The Korbel is 6mm thick and the Primorac is 5.7mm thick.
2) The Korbel has a head size of 151x158mm and the Primorac has a head size of 150x157mm.

Both the thickness and the head size will increase the speed of the blade. But if you had a heavy Primorac and a light Korbel, they may be more close to each other than you might realize. Whereas, if you have a light Primorac and a Heavy Korbel, the difference will be greater.

Remember, the same blade, 5 grams heavier, will be faster.

So here are a few things that are a small step up:

1) Weigh Your Primorac on a scale. And then buy another that is 4-6 grams heavier. It will be faster.
2) A Stiga Offensive Classic, the replacement of the inner Limba ply with a Spruce ply makes the blade slightly faster. BUT it will have a totally different feel.
3) OSP Virtuoso with a Medium (150x158mm) head or a Large (150x159mm) head with a weight that is the same or just slightly heavier than your Primorac. This blade has the same plies as the Primorac and Korbel but has a totally different feel.
4) OSP Virtuoso Plus but get a small head size (150x157mm) and get it lighter than what your Primorac weighs.
5) Find a Korbel the same weight or lighter than your Primorac.
6) Tibhar Stratus Power Wood the same weight or lighter than your Primorac.
7) Nittaku Acoustic same weight or lighter than your Primorac.

There are many more.

For the most part, if you want something a touch faster, you really may as well get the same blade slightly heavier.

But there are always options.

The main issue is, why try to fix a training issue with equipment. That is the classic EJ mistake.


Sent from The Subterranean Workshop by Telepathy
 
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