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If you want fast and low return, You can control board angle, face down.
I will upload clip about it.
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Gosh as I think about it, I think sderyke2002 was probably right in that you might as well just go for the Wally Rebounder for $200. That is a pretty good deal.
If I were to make one myself, estimating
Rubbers: 10 of them from ttnpp for $45
MDF Pannel 3/4: Not as good hard the hardwood birch Wally uses but I guess this will work. $17
Frame: Lets say I go real cheap and instead of buying a couple of tripods (which are more expensive) I use 2x4s. Say I need 3 of them ballpark. My local Mendards sells them for 4.99 each. So there's $15. Burt now I can't adjust the height which is a bummer.
Now hardware: Honestly this is the real sticking point. I don't know exactly how to rig it with some threaded rods, clamps & tightening nuts. I really don't know how much this would cost. Lets go say $15 for this.
Miscalaneous stuff I'm probably forgetting: $10
45+17+15+15+10 = $102 already for a product that probably wouldn't be near as good.
Hmm.. That wally rebounder is looking better & better every time.
My current robot's motor is dying form use over the years. That and having a cat in the basement probably doesn't help. Darn hairs. I kinda like the concept of less moving parts. Less stuff to break & wear down over the years. Plus my newgy really doesn't like the ever so slightly larger plastic balls.
If I were to make one myself, estimating
Rubbers: 10 of them from ttnpp for $45
MDF Pannel 3/4: Not as good hard the hardwood birch Wally uses but I guess this will work. $17
Frame: Lets say I go real cheap and instead of buying a couple of tripods (which are more expensive) I use 2x4s. Say I need 3 of them ballpark. My local Mendards sells them for 4.99 each. So there's $15. Burt now I can't adjust the height which is a bummer.
Now hardware: Honestly this is the real sticking point. I don't know exactly how to rig it with some threaded rods, clamps & tightening nuts. I really don't know how much this would cost. Lets go say $15 for this.
Miscalaneous stuff I'm probably forgetting: $10
45+17+15+15+10 = $102 already for a product that probably wouldn't be near as good.
Hmm.. That wally rebounder is looking better & better every time.
My current robot's motor is dying form use over the years. That and having a cat in the basement probably doesn't help. Darn hairs. I kinda like the concept of less moving parts. Less stuff to break & wear down over the years. Plus my newgy really doesn't like the ever so slightly larger plastic balls.
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So I bought one after reading this thread. I went to the wally site long ago but I think they were closer to $400 then, and I ended up buying some robots instead. Big mistake. But anyway, my Wally came today. I didn't have time to set it up until around 9:30, and I recorded this short clip around 11:00. I finally forced myself to stop looping at it so I'm not falling asleep at work tomorrow. I love this thing. The Schwinn stationary you can see in the corner behind me is going to gather dust for a while. I got enough of a workout with Wally to cause humidity problems in the garage.
cool idea tho.
i was wonder why i was never heard of this thing before... why isn't it advertised.....
well, i really consider to buy a Wally but do have some questions:
1. all shots i saw were controlled. will there be a possibility to get hard and spinny topspin's returned? i know the angle can be adjusted, but i cant get that fast spinny shot out ouf the hand.
2. do the rubbers can be replaced after wear-off? can i place my own personal rubbers on it? or do i have to order a new Wally
3. i want to train topspin on underspin mostly. i dislike robots because of the strong spin (atleast the one's i did play with could just adjust the speed, not the level of spin). the video i watched from jake doesnt convince me. the return looked like no-spin at all.
i was wonder why i was never heard of this thing before... why isn't it advertised.....
well, i really consider to buy a Wally but do have some questions:
1. all shots i saw were controlled. will there be a possibility to get hard and spinny topspin's returned? i know the angle can be adjusted, but i cant get that fast spinny shot out ouf the hand.
2. do the rubbers can be replaced after wear-off? can i place my own personal rubbers on it? or do i have to order a new Wally
3. i want to train topspin on underspin mostly. i dislike robots because of the strong spin (atleast the one's i did play with could just adjust the speed, not the level of spin). the video i watched from jake doesnt convince me. the return looked like no-spin at all.
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Wally has been around several years but most people tend to find us from our videos, direct web searches or through friends. To your questions - Rebound boards act pretty much like a blocking partner so you are correct that what comes back is not typically a hard and spinny topspin. Depending on the board angle and how much spin your drive or loop has, you typically get back a fairly no-spin ball or a ball with a light amount of topspin. In the push configs, you also typically get a fairly flat ball to a ball with light underspin.
The rubbers tend to last a long time on these boards largely because the shots are spread across 10 rubber sheets. If anyone contacts us about replacements, we just work with them to provide replacement rubbers or we will do it for them depending on what they want and the normal considerations of shipping logistics and costs.
It's definitely a different feel than a robot and both have their benefits and limitations and it's just a matter of what you are after. I'll try to write a post before long summarizing some of the feedback I've received from people that use both.
Hello Sir,
thank you for your reply.
First i have a really good first impression about your product.
I think the big advantages are for beginner who want to train their consistency and control. further more it can be great for advanced players who want to train fast rally's because u can put in a lot of spin and speed and still get a ball back to your table, more the better your shots the better the return while bad quality shots get punished with net returns.
i am kinda inbetween, i need to train topspin on (mid-heavy) underspin mostly. that's why i think a returningboard isn't the right thing right now, just like robots aren't right because of the heavy spin (unrealistic) and because of the missing feedback (i kinda dont know the quality of my shots i've been put it).
I'm still glad to been heard about it. one time this might be a product i'm searching for.
Iamsan
thank you for your reply.
First i have a really good first impression about your product.
I think the big advantages are for beginner who want to train their consistency and control. further more it can be great for advanced players who want to train fast rally's because u can put in a lot of spin and speed and still get a ball back to your table, more the better your shots the better the return while bad quality shots get punished with net returns.
i am kinda inbetween, i need to train topspin on (mid-heavy) underspin mostly. that's why i think a returningboard isn't the right thing right now, just like robots aren't right because of the heavy spin (unrealistic) and because of the missing feedback (i kinda dont know the quality of my shots i've been put it).
I'm still glad to been heard about it. one time this might be a product i'm searching for.
Iamsan
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To get the full effect, you work the board dressed as Count Dracula while chomping hard on garlic bread.
Well, at least one of the things was realistic... working the board.
Well, at least one of the things was realistic... working the board.
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Well so I ended selecting to build one after all.
My setup couldn't be easier thus far.
Heavy duty music stand: Ravel Premium Music Stand from Walmart - 30.99
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ravel-Premium-Music-Stand/41223749
I thought I'd have to build some sort of contraption to extend the face of the board out thinking I wouldn't be able to tilt the face forward enough for topspin. Not the case. This thing leans forward plenty. No mods needed.
So I'll leave the music stand's plate as is. There's holes on the side perfect for simply putting a screw through with a nut on the opposite side for my board.
I contacted a local supplier who had defect uncut rubbers that just fell out of the realm of normal so he can't sell them on his site. Got 10 rubbers for an insane deal.
Now I just need about a 20 by 20 inch board. Thinking possibly MDF in 1/2 thick. That should be plenty strong I would think and is pretty affordable. Any opinions there? Or for sure go a hardwood. Pricier but maybe there's a reason why I shouldn't go MDF? Perhaps the MDF would absorb the glue too much possibly? Perhaps some sort of particle board with a prefinish veneer cover on it would be good. Less likely to absorb moisture from the glue. Hmm..
I'll post pictures & video when the project is fully done.
All in all I'm guessing that this project will cost me.... 70 ish bucks??
For the record, I think that price is outside of the normal given what I paid for rubbers & shipping.
My setup couldn't be easier thus far.
Heavy duty music stand: Ravel Premium Music Stand from Walmart - 30.99
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ravel-Premium-Music-Stand/41223749
I thought I'd have to build some sort of contraption to extend the face of the board out thinking I wouldn't be able to tilt the face forward enough for topspin. Not the case. This thing leans forward plenty. No mods needed.
So I'll leave the music stand's plate as is. There's holes on the side perfect for simply putting a screw through with a nut on the opposite side for my board.
I contacted a local supplier who had defect uncut rubbers that just fell out of the realm of normal so he can't sell them on his site. Got 10 rubbers for an insane deal.
Now I just need about a 20 by 20 inch board. Thinking possibly MDF in 1/2 thick. That should be plenty strong I would think and is pretty affordable. Any opinions there? Or for sure go a hardwood. Pricier but maybe there's a reason why I shouldn't go MDF? Perhaps the MDF would absorb the glue too much possibly? Perhaps some sort of particle board with a prefinish veneer cover on it would be good. Less likely to absorb moisture from the glue. Hmm..
I'll post pictures & video when the project is fully done.
All in all I'm guessing that this project will cost me.... 70 ish bucks??
For the record, I think that price is outside of the normal given what I paid for rubbers & shipping.
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Cool Deal - If you can find HDF, I think you'll be much happier. HDF is normally about 25% more dense than MDF and a whole lot less sensitive to moisture, etc (say if the table is in your garage). High density plywood can work ok, but higher end plys like baltic birch are very nice and also tend not to warp on you over time.
Good luck with your build!
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Got the board assembled. The finish came out really nice. The music stand is adjustable and holds nice. The rubbers are glued in a black/red checkerboard style. My hitting around is roughly 20 inches by 20 inches. It works as it should.
Here's my impressions.
I'm glad I only spend 70ish bucks on this project. It's not useless but for me personally, this isn't that great of practice. But why?
- I really suck at that first ball.
So on you have your return board angled forward to be able to block your normal forehand drive or loop back at you. Here's the thing. Your normal forehand carries a lot more speed & spin than your first ball you hit over in a rally. I normally start a rally with my mates like a normal pure topspin serve. You can't do that vs a return board. Your first ball you hit you need to hit has to be out of your hand and directly over the net bouncing on the opponents side, then the board and hopefully with enough speed and/or spin to come back over where you begin your FH practice. Picture when people are playing 5 feet off the table practicing loop to loop rallies. They hit the ball right over the net. I simply suck at this practice as I've never started rallies this way.
- My Penhold forehand naturally has a good amount of side on it.
When I do get a good first ball and start looping, the ball progressively jumps further & further to the left (I'm left handed) and the ball misses the table wide by say the 3rd or 4th hit.
No problem. Just angle the board back towards your right. Right? That leads into the next problem.
- That first practice ball I hit doesn't carry side on it. It's not like my normal forehand.
So the ball reflects back towards my BH. My TPB which is not nearly as spiny as my FH. So even if i do hit it over, the ball just bounces back into the table off the return board that is set up to handle my forehand. So that pretty much kills that rally.
All in all I think the most I've been able to hit in a row on the thing with probably a total of 25 minutes practicing is 4-5 balls.
Robots are still far, far superior IMO. Even if they cost 5x the amount.
Here's my impressions.
I'm glad I only spend 70ish bucks on this project. It's not useless but for me personally, this isn't that great of practice. But why?
- I really suck at that first ball.
So on you have your return board angled forward to be able to block your normal forehand drive or loop back at you. Here's the thing. Your normal forehand carries a lot more speed & spin than your first ball you hit over in a rally. I normally start a rally with my mates like a normal pure topspin serve. You can't do that vs a return board. Your first ball you hit you need to hit has to be out of your hand and directly over the net bouncing on the opponents side, then the board and hopefully with enough speed and/or spin to come back over where you begin your FH practice. Picture when people are playing 5 feet off the table practicing loop to loop rallies. They hit the ball right over the net. I simply suck at this practice as I've never started rallies this way.
- My Penhold forehand naturally has a good amount of side on it.
When I do get a good first ball and start looping, the ball progressively jumps further & further to the left (I'm left handed) and the ball misses the table wide by say the 3rd or 4th hit.
No problem. Just angle the board back towards your right. Right? That leads into the next problem.
- That first practice ball I hit doesn't carry side on it. It's not like my normal forehand.
So the ball reflects back towards my BH. My TPB which is not nearly as spiny as my FH. So even if i do hit it over, the ball just bounces back into the table off the return board that is set up to handle my forehand. So that pretty much kills that rally.
All in all I think the most I've been able to hit in a row on the thing with probably a total of 25 minutes practicing is 4-5 balls.
Robots are still far, far superior IMO. Even if they cost 5x the amount.
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Recently filmed a few of our local college students here in Austin Texas on a couple of our wallyrebounder board configurations. Sharing a small clip of the action. Big thanks to Joy, Chhun, and Brian as well as the awesome folks at Austin Table Tennis Club
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Back into TT after 25 year. 3 month in now. Can only go to the club 2x a week so most of the time, I can only train with my robot and return board. Just sharing a short clip of some drills I came up with utilizing both robot and return board.
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Nice, looks like a California irrigation control system on the far wall...
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Hi you may check out our new returnboards at www.returnboard.net
SM-N9500 cihazımdan Tapatalk kullanılarak gönderildi
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https://youtu.be/2ios9eL6eFQ
please check our new returnboard video
SM-N9500 cihazımdan Tapatalk kullanılarak gönderildi
please check our new returnboard video
SM-N9500 cihazımdan Tapatalk kullanılarak gönderildi
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