Question for Blade-Builders

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Scoobie Doo Sergey (Tsos) (who one day WILL register and talk on the forum) tried out the Nate-made Koto outer 7 ply blade with 110 mm handle. I had slapped on two NEW sheets of Tibhar MX-K 47.5 rubber in 2.1 sponge...

DUDE... Sergey was simply LUVIN IT !!

That cat could LITERALLY hit ANY SHOT HE WANTED. Sergey plays a hybrid heavy/slow spin, control ball, punch counter, and POUND the ball attack kinda game. Sometimes he chops. As fast as these rubbers are and as fast as the balde is OFF class 7 ply all wood, Sergey could do chops well.

... but it wasn't his consistency accross a wide range of his favored shots that was causing him to rave... it was the FEEL and FEEDBACK and FEELING of control that gave him confidence.

I kidnapped the blade back out of his hands after a forceful 15 minute Jijitsu struggle... and I confirmed my earlier observations that that blade is simply different and SUITABLE for how both Sergey and Der_Echte strike the ball with a middle firm rubber.

I am obviously, by the amount of time I spend using the Limba outer blades, more favorable towards the limba outer blades, but that Koto outer blade can deliver the goods for either of us.

I might ask Nate to make another TWO of those (for Sergey and TTD memebr erm)

I'm glad he loved it! That combination of Koto-outer over a thick European larch medial ply is one of my all time personal favorites for blade feel. It's crisp and the vibrations seem to dampen quickly. Just let me know if/when you want any more blades!
 
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Nate4s said:
I'm glad he loved it! That combination of Koto-outer over a thick European larch medial ply is one of my all time personal favorites for blade feel. It's crisp and the vibrations seem to dampen quickly. Just let me know if/when you want any more blades!

Well, now that you mention that...

Go ahead and construct another 3 of those - same composition and specs, but with 102 mm long ST handles. I will pay for those. Send one of those to George when you ship what he is requesting. I will receive the other two.

I am interested in trying out your faster Blade 2 from the last page.

Composition: EuropeanLarch-AlaskanYellowCedar-AlaskanYellowCedar-WesternRedCedar(core)-AlaskanYellowCedar-AlaskanYellowCedar-EuropeanLarch
Handle: Walnut-WesternRedCedar-BigLeafMaple
Weight: 98 grams (balance point 2.8 cm off handle)

I would like it in ST handle, 102 mm handle length, and several mm larger circumferance of handle. Standard 157x100 shape. I would like two of these. (I intend to get one to TTD member erm)

I understand you need to replenish materials, chase away the Cedar Trees Matter protestors, and shred those voter registration application forms for your former pets you recently got in the mail... so it gets accomplished when it gets acomplished.

Again, Sergey could hit all the shots with what he felt as better placement and pleasing feel. I can say from being on the other end, it was one of those blades with 2x MK-K rubbers that can be used for that - he was confident and consistent.
 
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Well, now that you mention that...

Go ahead and construct another 3 of those - same composition and specs, but with 102 mm long ST handles. I will pay for those. Send one of those to George when you ship what he is requesting. I will receive the other two.

I am interested in trying out your faster Blade 2 from the last page.

Composition: EuropeanLarch-AlaskanYellowCedar-AlaskanYellowCedar-WesternRedCedar(core)-AlaskanYellowCedar-AlaskanYellowCedar-EuropeanLarch
Handle: Walnut-WesternRedCedar-BigLeafMaple
Weight: 98 grams (balance point 2.8 cm off handle)

I would like it in ST handle, 102 mm handle length, and several mm larger circumferance of handle. Standard 157x100 shape. I would like two of these. (I intend to get one to TTD member erm)

I understand you need to replenish materials, chase away the Cedar Trees Matter protestors, and shred those voter registration application forms for your former pets you recently got in the mail... so it gets accomplished when it gets acomplished.

Again, Sergey could hit all the shots with what he felt as better placement and pleasing feel. I can say from being on the other end, it was one of those blades with 2x MK-K rubbers that can be used for that - he was confident and consistent.

I can definitely do that! I'll reach out through PM to verify all the specifications...and you're right - I'll need to restock on kiri and veneer woods, so it might take a week longer than usual to get those blades to you. I'm thrilled you like my blades enough to own so many!
 
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Well, I like different and that is why I like Nexy and use so many of Nexy's designed blades. Ditto on your stuff.

You just take your time and do things right... (like you alwys have) there is no rush. Even George has no rush, even if he wanted to change blades like YESTERDAY... he will face same realities I do, or just feel what it is like to only want.

George or nobody is gunna call BTY or Stiga or Tibhar and give them a spec sheet order and expect the specified fnished product delivered within the week...
 
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I posted some discussion points in the "SDC Handmade Blades" thread about the concerns that arise when building a combination blade (i.e., a single blade with dissimilar playing properties on each side), as there's no easy/conventional way of building an effective one. Der_Echte's friend reached out to me to build him a few combination blades and he was happy to try something experimental I suggested (along with some less-experimental options as well).

Composition:

Limba
Limba
Kiri
Carbon-Aramid (core; thin enough to be legal!)
Redwood
Walnut
Walnut

Blade 1 - Handle Deep.jpg
Blade 1 - Thumb Choil.jpg
Blade 1 - Walnut Side.jpg
Blade 1 - Limba Side.jpg
 
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I did - there is a difference with a bare blade bounce test, but who knows what it will be like with some rubber sheets on it. :)

If there is a difference in bounce and pitch on a blade bounce test, then surely there will be a difference in playing. Sometimes these differences are subtle with the bare blade, but can be felt during play.

I'm also working on some combi attack/defense blades but I'm using a different approach. It's interesting how carbon takes over a whole blade. Even if used one just one side, underneath the outer layer, on a thick blade with major differences between sides, its presence can still be felt on the other side.
 
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Just finished up these five blades for a forum member. I tried to tell him you can only use one at a time, but he wouldn't listen...

3 of them with this composition:

Koto
European Larch
Spruce
Kiri (cores increasing by 0.1mm each)
Spruce
European Larch
Koto

2 of them with this composition:

European Larch
Alaskan Yellow Cedar
Alaskan Yellow Cedar
Western Red Cedar (cores differ by 0.1mm)
Alaskan Yellow Cedar
Alaskan Yellow Cedar
European Larch

Handles:
various combinations of walnut and maple layers for different weights

All 5 Blades.jpg
2x Larch Handles.jpg
Larch and Kiri Handles Close-up.jpg
Kiri Core Handle Close-Up.jpg
Kiri Core Handle Close-Up 2.jpg
 
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Through an "internet-accident", I ended up with some Sen wood (Japanese Ash). Not quite the same as the white ash used in the Nittaku Violin's construction, but I think it turned out nicely all the same. Since my Sen was a little thinner than I imagined the real-Violin's white-ash plies to be, I beefed up the kiri core (and overall thickness) by 0.4 mm to compensate.

Fake-taku Violin:
Composition: Sen-Sen-Kiri-Sen-Sen
Handle: Walnut and Maple
Weight: 79 grams
Thickness: 5.7 mm
Glue: Hide
Peak Frequency: 1,194 hz

Entire Blade - Uniform Color Stripes Side3.jpg
Three-Fourths of Handle.jpg
 
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Hit tonite a couple hrs mosty with Nate's 5 ply 105g and the Larch outer blade. 2nd hit in what feels like the last month. Pace and feel are there, shape of handle and dimensions are there, can finish at or away and still feel ball. May need to order a lot more FX-S, it is great on these blades on my big swings. Confirmed what I saw and felt (when I didn't mis-strike on edge of bat) and that is I could grab any three of those blades (5 ply koto outer, 7 ply larch outer, 7 ply Koto outer) with the rubbers I use and play my level instantly blindly drawing it out of the bag.

erm had similar feedback - ANY offensive player under 2500 could use the Koto or Larch outer blade and play quality. Feel and performance there, except the power pumping elite amateur to approaching pro crowd will want more than middle to upper OFF speed on top end.

My person measure of if a blade has pace is if I can hit it by Sergey Scoobie Doo Tsos (while still landing it - not wrth crap if it doesn't land, right?). That dude can take one step or one cross step to wide FH and get to about anything 12ft + to his diagonal side wide FH like right now. With the nice Akkad, I rarely got it by him (but landed the ball a lot - that counts, right?)... with any of these, especially the Larch and 5 ply Koto outer blades, the powershots landed and were by-ya stuff if I was able to mis-direct him. (Dude got sum pro reaction/recovery quicks on him)

Customization of the handle is important. So is material. Softer handles produce more feeling of dwell and spin, harder handles produce more feeling of direct and pace. It is a very good thing to be able to get desired specs and properties, even better to be able to discuss that with stuff with Nate here and in PM.
 
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That's great how much you like the 5-ply I included (I put it on top of the blades you were expecting so you didn't miss it this time)! There's something special about that engelmann spruce core, but that blade is definitely pushing the acceptable weight range for most people (i.e., the core is heavy, the larch is heavy, and the handle weighs 30+ grams if I remember correctly).

As you know, I always like tinkering and seeing if I can improve upon things. I wonder what would happen to the playing characteristics and feeling of one of those blades if I added 0.5-0.6 mm to the core (it would add 5-6 grams for the WRC and about 3.5 grams for Kiri). I would expect the speed and stiffness to increase and perhaps the vibrations to become a little more succinct (which would be great for power shots), but I wonder how that would translate to the slower/touch shots. I could balance out the weight increase and perhaps compensate for the loss in feeling by using hide-glue, but that might also negate some of the power/speed increases gained with a thicker core. I'm overwhelmed by the number of variables that could be tinkered with...
 
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Through an "internet-accident", I ended up with some Sen wood (Japanese Ash). Not quite the same as the white ash used in the Nittaku Violin's construction, but I think it turned out nicely all the same. Since my Sen was a little thinner than I imagined the real-Violin's white-ash plies to be, I beefed up the kiri core (and overall thickness) by 0.4 mm to compensate.

Fake-taku Violin:
Composition: Sen-Sen-Kiri-Sen-Sen
Handle: Walnut and Maple
Weight: 79 grams
Thickness: 5.7 mm
Glue: Hide
Peak Frequency: 1,194 hz

View attachment 21771
View attachment 21772

Great looking handle!
 
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Afrobro (Dave) reached out to me a few weeks back and initiated a trade of materials (what a great opportunity!). I've just had the chance to put together some blades using some of the things he sent my way.

Blade 1 (Xiom Vega Tour Knockoff):
Composition: Kiso Hinoki-ZLC-Ayous-Kiri (core)-Ayous-ZLC-Kiso Hinoki
Handle: Walnut and Maple
Weight: 88 grams
Thickness: 6.2 mm
Glue: Polyurethane and Epoxy
Peak Frequency: 1,529 hz

Blade 2 - Full Blade2.jpg
Blade 2 - Butt.jpg

Blade 2 (My Personal Favorite Composition...with ZLC added!):
Composition: European Larch - Alaskan Yellow Cedar - ZLC - Kiri (core) - ZLC - Alaskan Yellow Cedar - European Larch
Handle: Walnut and Maple
Weight: 89 grams
Thickness: 5.95 mm
Glue: Polyurethane and Epoxy
Peak Frequency: 1,367 hz

Larch-AYC-ZLC-Kiri Full.jpg
Full Handle.jpg
 
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