Best glues - Water Based or Latex Based

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If you put a thick layer it's easy to remove
So it is as easy to remove from rubber as rev3?
This is very cheap. I've heard of it before but I choosed to buy a regular TT glue. If it is easy to peel of, than I may buy it next time

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I've been using Revolution 3 normal viscosity. I apply a thick layer on blade and a thick layer on the rubber. It dries pretty fast and is easy to apply. I have no issue removing the glue from the blade or the rubber (I use Hurricane 3 on FH and Fastarc on BH). It does have smell though. I'm switching to Donic Blue Contact. It's made for large pore tensor rubbers. Hopefully it doesn't have the smell like Rev. 3
 
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[size=+2] NO MORE WETTING on THE RACKET PLYWOOD.

It is a common knowledge. Every water based glue would incorporate some amount of water H2O. And water is an evil substance to degrade the plywood badly.
Innovative glue staff made in USA, no need to put a glue layer onto the blade. Just put some glue onto the rubber sponge.

Be happy.[/size]

http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=29099
BWxOrWU.jpg
 
I use Xiom iBond - easy to wotk with, thin, strong but no problems when removing the rubbers, easy to clean off of the blade, especially from smooth outer veneers like Hinoki, I never seal my blades and the hinoki has never been damaged, removing from rubbers is not needed, preserves the natural synergy between the blade and the rubbers and the blade feeling.
I've used Tibhar Clue which is with greater content of natural rubber - its good, its thicker, but it weekens the blade feeling and changes the rubber properties, making it more vivid with softer touch and weeker with harder strokes. I personally don't like it.
 
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DHS No. 15 has an average bond but is super easy to remove. I applied one layer each to both the sponge and blade and was good to go. Had to apply a slightly thicker layer on my blade as it has been sealed (Nittaku Racket Protect) and it seemed to have an effect on the glue while I was spreading it (Quite hard to spread unless glue was applied generously).
 
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For me it's rubber cement that works best. Only 4 bucks for 8 oz jar. IMO best way to use it is to put a thick layer on the blade (you might have to put more for chinese rubber) and stick the rubber on while the cement is wet and then apply pressure (using books or whatever you got) for around 20-30 min. By not putting the cement directly on the rubber you avoid causing any doming or stretching of the rubber when you glue it.
 
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Many folks believe the more expensive a product is the better it works. What an illusion! However, more money to spend is more power to them.;)

BTW, latex based adhesive like Tear Mender is water based. But keep in mind ALL adhesive have VOC's. Manufacturers can make non-VOC's adhesives do not exist. It is important to know most water based adhesives have very low content of VOC's which can only be measurable in a lab condition (not by quick method used by ITTF). For more technical folks:

www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/10473289.2000.10464006
 
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For me it's rubber cement that works best. Only 4 bucks for 8 oz jar. IMO best way to use it is to put a thick layer on the blade (you might have to put more for chinese rubber) and stick the rubber on while the cement is wet and then apply pressure (using books or whatever you got) for around 20-30 min. By not putting it directly on the blade you avoid causing any doming or stretching of the rubber when you glue it.

I am not sure I understand this statement.

By not putting it directly on the blade you avoid causing any doming or stretching of the rubber when you glue it


What is it here? I assume it is the rubber but without putting rubber on the blade is confusing..... you know what I mean?
 
I am not sure I understand this statement.

By not putting it directly on the blade you avoid causing any doming or stretching of the rubber when you glue it


What is it here? I assume it is the rubber but without putting rubber on the blade is confusing..... you know what I mean?
Oh sorry. I meant the rubber cement. By not putting the rubber cement directly on the rubber.
 
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Latex glues take some experience to apply, since they tend to clump as the glue is spread.

I prefer Nittaku FineZip glue (Latex) and Donic Formula First glue (non-latex). Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Right now, I am using FineZip, but I could easily go back to Formula First. The difference is that the Latex based glues seem to work best on non-lacquered blades, whereas Formula First seems to have no trouble with lacquer. In fact, Donic has a lacquer/sealer that is intended to work with Formula First.
 
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You will pay for the name brand unnecessarily. Just buy (almost) any latex based glues and they are many times cheaper.

A 16oz Tear Mender is ~ $20, Creep Twists ($15)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creepy-Twi...724564?hash=item33e7d36b54:g:qZIAAOSwXshaOCqj

I really do not think any expensive glues from Nittaku, Butterfly, Donic, Dianchi, etc. can be any better than the above mentioned latex glues. Been there done that!

Some of them tend to clump up a bit and dry too fast (Tearmender) but adding just a little ammonia stops that from happening.

I still use Finezip. It is still trivial compared to cost of rubber and I get a perfect result everytime. Tearmender sometimes didn't.
 
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If I have to glue an OX sheet of rubber and the base is thin? I suppose tear mender will get the job done. It's cheap & works.

But that's few & far between on when I need to do that.

Everything else, I just use rubber cement. Never have a removal glue problem if I take off a rubber, it's cheap, has a good hold and easy to work with... I couldn't care less about the VOCs. And if I did, those evaporate within a short period anyways.
 
says Thanks for the suggestion Splasher! I was going to try...
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a while ago I bought a small bottle of Tear Mender after reading good things, but then got worried when reading other less positive comments. For instance someone saying it creates a glue layer that is thicker and less firm than water based glue, potentially effecting the paying quality of the rubber.. Also, in one of the ‘how to glue rubbers with TM’ videos what shows at the top of the google search list, the guy recommends to put the rubber on the blade when the glue is still a bit wet.. which puzzles me a bit! Other people say to put a layer on blade one on rubber, let dry 10 min and then glue, other recommend 2 layers each, others 3 layers..I find this so confusing I might just use a reputable TT brand instead, had no problems using Nittaku glue since my very first glue job a few months ago.
 
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