Ayous vs Kiri in blade core

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Here are my €.02.

Ayous is relatively stiff, and harder and a bit heavier than Kiri. Suited for close-to-the table play, counterdrives and such. SG is 0.32, Janka 430lbf.

Kiri is also stiff, but softer. SG is 0.26, Janka 250lbf. I like the way Kiri vibrates more (I think the customary spelling on this forum is "moar", but somehow can't get that in my system).

Many Stiga blades have an Ayous core. I've played with an Offensive Wood (way back when) that I really loved, that had a Walnut/Limba/Ayous/Limba/Walnut composition. I did play quite close (and over) the table then.

Returning to the game, I tried the Offensive Classic (Limba/Spruce/Ayous/Spruce/Limba) and didn't like it for direct play, although it spinned quite well. Others play fine with it, I'm sure it's a good blade for them. At least it's not too fast, which I think is the most commonly made equipment mistake people make.

I then tried the Offensive Classic Carbon (Limba/Spruce/Carbon/Ayous/Carbon/Spruce/Limba, I think), and that felt better (to me) in close-to-the-table play, direct play, and provided a bit more comfort in power away from the table. It didn't spin as deeply as the OC, and it didn't entirely convince me.

After tinkering with a few borrowed blades of the Viscaria family I settled upon the Treiber K (Koto/ALC/Limba/Kiri/Limba/ALC/Koto). That blade helped me restore my game, and after a while I felt free and safe using it. As my level rose, I did notice I was suffering avoidable defeats due to a slightly too high unforced error rate. For every four majestic, smile-provoking winners, there'd be three near-winners also. And a few clumsy service receives. And too many service errors. So I take a step back, suspected I'd fallen pray to the forementioned pitfall of too fast stuff, and commissioned a custom blade quite close to the Treiber K (Viscaria, TB ALC, ZJK ALC, …) but with the fiber moved towards the core (and one outer of Anegre instead of Koto).

Long story. For me, Kiri blades have offered a better balance. For others, that balance lies different and Ayous seems the better fit. I think that has to do with playing style and player skill; I don't know about yours. What helped me, was borrowing other people's gear and training with it seriously.
 
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Here are my €.02.

Ayous is relatively stiff, and harder and a bit heavier than Kiri. Suited for close-to-the table play, counterdrives and such. SG is 0.32, Janka 430lbf.

Kiri is also stiff, but softer. SG is 0.26, Janka 250lbf. I like the way Kiri vibrates more (I think the customary spelling on this forum is "moar", but somehow can't get that in my system).

Many Stiga blades have an Ayous core. I've played with an Offensive Wood (way back when) that I really loved, that had a Walnut/Limba/Ayous/Limba/Walnut composition. I did play quite close (and over) the table then.

Returning to the game, I tried the Offensive Classic (Limba/Spruce/Ayous/Spruce/Limba) and didn't like it for direct play, although it spinned quite well. Others play fine with it, I'm sure it's a good blade for them. At least it's not too fast, which I think is the most commonly made equipment mistake people make.

I then tried the Offensive Classic Carbon (Limba/Spruce/Carbon/Ayous/Carbon/Spruce/Limba, I think), and that felt better (to me) in close-to-the-table play, direct play, and provided a bit more comfort in power away from the table. It didn't spin as deeply as the OC, and it didn't entirely convince me.

After tinkering with a few borrowed blades of the Viscaria family I settled upon the Treiber K (Koto/ALC/Limba/Kiri/Limba/ALC/Koto). That blade helped me restore my game, and after a while I felt free and safe using it. As my level rose, I did notice I was suffering avoidable defeats due to a slightly too high unforced error rate. For every four majestic, smile-provoking winners, there'd be three near-winners also. And a few clumsy service receives. And too many service errors. So I take a step back, suspected I'd fallen pray to the forementioned pitfall of too fast stuff, and commissioned a custom blade quite close to the Treiber K (Viscaria, TB ALC, ZJK ALC, …) but with the fiber moved towards the core (and one outer of Anegre instead of Koto).

Long story. For me, Kiri blades have offered a better balance. For others, that balance lies different and Ayous seems fit better.

Ohh, so you've used Treiber K ;) I'm using also Treiber K. It's a spetacular blade with a tremendous control, but I have no time to do some exercise to get more fit and quick on the table, and also I have training sessions 2 times a week, and feeling also that I'm doing some forced errors because of my blade. I would like to change some plies also on my blade. As you know already Treiber K ply constitution, I would like to change outer Koto plies to Limba, and on backhand switch ALC closer to the core. But about the center, I know I'm used to Kiri, because the blades I've used where always Viscaria/TBS/TBALC so I'm used to Kiri core. In other way, I would consider Ayous to get a more heavy blade, and a stiffer core(Like Marcos Freitas ALC/ Maze ALC have limba-alc-limba-ayous), because with only Limba, ALC, and Kiri, the blade would get too flex and no power. And I only want to have better dwell time in my forehand, and even more on my backhand, so I can use BH more, because I'm a 100% FH Oriented Looper.
 
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… and feeling also that I'm doing some forced errors because of my blade. I would like to change some plies also on my blade. As you know already Treiber K ply constitution, I would like to change outer Koto plies to Limba, and on backhand switch ALC closer to the core.

Ah yes… I felt enormous control when playing with the Treiber K, but I think I've realised since then that feeling control doesn't actually equal having it.

A custom blade builder may get you there. May people like Limba as an outer ply, but the Limba blades I used didn't work that well for me. I do like both Anegre and Koto, and I think moving the ALC layer towards the core works very well for me.

I do use an asymmetric blade, but when considering that dismissed the designs that would create a huge gap between FH and BH. If you move the ALC to third layer on BH and keep it on the second on BH, ánd use different outer plies, ánd possibly other rubbers, that might make the blade like two different worlds. That may suit you, but somehow I felt things should remain connected, relatable, to my poor limbic system that has to deal with these things.
 
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Ah yes… I felt enormous control when playing with the Treiber K, but I think I've realised since then that feeling control doesn't actually equal having it.

A custom blade builder may get you there. May people like Limba as an outer ply, but the Limba blades I used didn't work that well for me. I do like both Anegre and Koto, and I think moving the ALC layer towards the core works very well for me.

I do use an asymmetric blade, but when considering that dismissed the designs that would create a huge gap between FH and BH. If you move the ALC to third layer on BH and keep it on the second on BH, ánd use different outer plies, ánd possibly other rubbers, that might make the blade like two different worlds. That may suit you, but somehow I felt things should remain connected, relatable, to my poor limbic system that has to deal with these things.

I know, and I'm afraid to spend money and don't like that combination blade! Because I haven't much aknowledgement about kinds of wood and how they should perform in a blade.

And I didn't want to move ALC closer to the core on both sides, because I play with chinese rubber on forehand, and I thought that a change from Koto to Limba was enough to give me some more dwell but without loss of speed with ALC next to outer ply.

Enviado do meu ALE-L21 através do Tapatalk
 
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Hm, so you want to have something that's like the Freitas ALC on FH, and like the Innerforce ALC on BH. :) Sounds doable.

I think Yogi is right about his observation — given that to get the same weight a Kiri core would be slightly thicker.

Yeah, I only have afraid that blade doens't perform well because of the asymmetry :/ I need time to think more about this eheh
 
If you have Limba then some carbon and then Kiri or Ayous, what will be the characteristics of the blade. Based on the core, if it is Ayous or Kiri.

Low trajectory, flat shots...

Anyone who can give an answer?

I am asking because I have 3 blades, but I think 2 of them are with Ayous one is with Kiri. Manufacturer has changed the core I think. So I would like to get some answers.

On the Kiri I can found small holes on the structure. On the Ayous cannot see any.
 
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If you have Limba then some carbon and then Kiri or Ayous, what will be the characteristics of the blade. Based on the core, if it is Ayous or Kiri.

Low trajectory, flat shots...

Anyone who can give an answer?

I am asking because I have 3 blades, but I think 2 of them are with Ayous one is with Kiri. Manufacturer has changed the core I think. So I would like to get some answers.

On the Kiri I can found small holes on the structure. On the Ayous cannot see any.
All wood has those little dots that are the pores that bring fluid nutrients through the tree from roots, through trunk, to branches and leaves. If you don't see them, you are not looking closely enough, or at the correct angle. The pores run parallel to the grain so you will see them perpendicular to the grain.

Also, ignore what you think the wood is. If you have all three blades, use the one you like best. Test them and use the one that gives you the feeling and trajectory you like best of the three.
 
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Hello Trinity! When comparing Kiri and Ayus as wood, Ayus is more yellow in color, denser, has a higher specific gravity and is much less flexible. Kiri is, as far as I understand, this is Paulownia. It has a lighter color sometimes with brown streaks, is lighter and much much much more! flexible wood. With paulownia, it is possible to make a blade with a thicker inner layer, or with the same inner layer, use heavier outer layers / denser glue. If the blades differ only in the inner layer, and everything else (the geometric dimensions of the blade, its thickness, the absence of voids in the handle, the type of veneer) is the same, then the scales will immediately show this. This is about wood. And as for the racket, as a product in general, I completely agree with Karl - try, play and what suits you best will be your blade.
In fact, making two absolutely identical blades is much more difficult than it might seem at first glance, the slightest deviations can affect the nature of the finished product.
 
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