wood protection
- Thread starter jamesmith
- Start date
-
- Tags
- protection wood
This user has no status.
Well-Known Member
says
Spin and more spin.
says
Spin and more spin.
Well-Known Member
Super Moderator
Oil, I am not sure I would do that. I think it would make the blade play duller and less crisp. And I don't think it would protect the wood from things that can damage it. And it would make the wood a little heavier.
Sealant....that is a choice. It isn't necessary. But it would protect the wood from the water in the water based glues. It would protect the top ply from being damaged when you remove the rubber to change them.
If you put a very thin layer of a good sealant, it will protect the wood and not change the playing characteristics in a detrimental way. But you would not want to put a thick layer of sealant on. That would change the playing characteristics more than most people would want.
Sealant....that is a choice. It isn't necessary. But it would protect the wood from the water in the water based glues. It would protect the top ply from being damaged when you remove the rubber to change them.
If you put a very thin layer of a good sealant, it will protect the wood and not change the playing characteristics in a detrimental way. But you would not want to put a thick layer of sealant on. That would change the playing characteristics more than most people would want.
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Well-Known Member
Michel Detrigne uses oil to seal blades of players like Timo Boll. I think he uses old raw linseedoil.
I did an Allround Evolution and it worked out nice.
Linseedoil is the only vegetable oil that hardend when dry like varnish.
Smells good too!
I did an Allround Evolution and it worked out nice.
Linseedoil is the only vegetable oil that hardend when dry like varnish.
Smells good too!
This user has no status.
I had good results with two products: Teak oil and Acrylic wax
Teak Oil is actually a mixture of oil and varnish, so when it cures leaves a fine protective layer while also penetrating the wood. It is easy two apply, dries to the touch in minutes but it takes about a week to fully cure.
Acrylic wax is even easier to apply and dries in minutes. It is ready to use the next day. The disadvantage is that it is water based so it raises the grain a little. A light sand takes care of that.
Teak Oil is actually a mixture of oil and varnish, so when it cures leaves a fine protective layer while also penetrating the wood. It is easy two apply, dries to the touch in minutes but it takes about a week to fully cure.
Acrylic wax is even easier to apply and dries in minutes. It is ready to use the next day. The disadvantage is that it is water based so it raises the grain a little. A light sand takes care of that.
Similar threads
