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  1. hipnotic is online now
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by yogi_bear
    Nice. I have not seen a triple kiri inner layers before.
    Me neither, and i think it has a lot of potential, don't know why manufactures don't use it.

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    #22
    Probably the cost? Dunno much. Kiri is really good as a middle core and i like it better than ayous.

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    #23
    Is both Kiri and Ayous regarded as mid speed or slower woods?

    Quote Originally Posted by yogi_bear
    Probably the cost? Dunno much. Kiri is really good as a middle core and i like it better than ayous.

  4. hipnotic is online now
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    #24
    Quote Originally Posted by yogi_bear
    Probably the cost? Dunno much. Kiri is really good as a middle core and i like it better than ayous.
    I'm liking it more and more. I've played with Blade 16 and it's my favorite so far. Regarding speed and control is in the All+ range, but without that hollow feeling and sound that most of the blades in that category has. It's like a tamed clipper.

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    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by RidTheKid
    Is both Kiri and Ayous regarded as mid speed or slower woods?
    It's not a simple yes or no answer. Kiri is slightly heavier and harder than balsa, and ayous is slightly heavier and harder than kiri. All else being equal, an ayous blade will be faster, but you get to a point where if you increase thickness the blade becomes too heavy. You have to balance those aspects and also the feeling of the blade.

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    #26
    My first ALC blades. I had some trouble when routing the edges. Any tips from other builders to get clean edges when using composites?

    I also made some more experiments with dyed handles. Still not what i'm looking for, the color is not bright enough.

    Blade 18 - Maple/ALC/Beech/Balsa/Beech/ALC/Maple - 84.0g - 6.0mm - 1470 Hz

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    Blade 19 - Brazilian Cherry/ALC/Mahogany/Kiri/Mahogany/ALC/Brazilian Cherry - 88.0g - 5.6mm - 1330 Hz

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    #27
    First of all good job making those blades. They look pretty good. In terms of getting clean edges usually an quality router bit helps. I used sandpaper to finish of the edges to get a clean look.

  8. hipnotic is online now
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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Giangt
    First of all good job making those blades. They look pretty good. In terms of getting clean edges usually an quality router bit helps. I used sandpaper to finish of the edges to get a clean look.
    Thanks Giangt. I will buy a quality router bit, mine are crappy chinese bits.

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    #29
    I did buy quality bits but after some time they wear down... So I'm using 800 grid sandpaper to get clean edges...... Anyway nice clean work.

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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by bobpuls
    I did buy quality bits but after some time they wear down... So I'm using 800 grid sandpaper to get clean edges...... Anyway nice clean work.
    What Robert is saying is probably the cheapest way to do it.

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    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Giangt
    What Robert is saying is probably the cheapest way to do it.
    I find diamond sharpening stones the best for sharpening router cutters. Something like 400 and 1000 grit or they are often sold as coarse and fine. You can pick up a decent set for around 40 euros, you'll get sharp cutters and the stones will last a very long time. If you want them really sharp hone with polishing compound and a strop.

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  12. hipnotic is online now
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    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by GinjaNinja
    I find diamond sharpening stones the best for sharpening router cutters. Something like 400 and 1000 grit or they are often sold as coarse and fine. You can pick up a decent set for around 40 euros, you'll get sharp cutters and the stones will last a very long time. If you want them really sharp hone with polishing compound and a strop.
    I've done that with good results. However, in the case of template bits there's a limit. You can't sharpen them very much with risk of reducing the original diameter, relative to the bearing. Also, sharpening one side more than the other may cause imbalance in the bits.

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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by hipnotic
    I've done that with good results. However, in the case of template bits there's a limit. You can't sharpen them very much with risk of reducing the original diameter, relative to the bearing. Also, sharpening one side more than the other may cause imbalance in the bits.
    Absolutely right, after a while there's no alternative but to buy a new bit. I have four trim bits and alternate them
    I used to find varnishing the outer ply with pu varnish before gluing helped reduce any bleed through and helped with cleaner edges when routing. When finished just sand the varnish away. Also using a band saw to trim to within about 2 or 3mm of the template meant that i had less material to move on the router table and therefore got a cleaner cut.
    However, sometimes the wood just doesn't want to do what you want it to do.

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    #34
    Finally got my hands on some limba!

    Blade 20 - Limba/Limba x2/WRC/Limba x2/Limba - 91.7g - 5.9mm - 1120Hz

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    Blade 21 - Mahogany/Beech/Spruce/Beech/Mahogany - 90.2g - 5.8mm - 1200Hz

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    Blade 22 - Limba/Basalt Fibre/Limba/Kiri x3/Limba/Basalt Fibre/Limba - 90.9g - 5.8mm - 1230Hz

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    Blade 23 - Limba/Limba/Basalt Fibre/Kiri x3/Basalt Fibre/Limba/Limba - 93.0g - 5.8mm - 1160Hz

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    #35
    Great looking !
    where do you get this colored wood planks for the handles ?

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    #36
    great work hipnotic! Very professional looking. Some interesting combinations, it will be good to know how they play.

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    #37
    How do you feel - both blades turned out the same? This is not your first time doing this? My husband also wants to do it himself, because he bought twice, and they were of poor quality and poorly glued. Where did you order the materials?
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    Last edited by dorrismillerrr123; 08-12-2019 at 08:21 AM. Reason: Grammar mistake

  18. hipnotic is online now
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    #38
    Quote Originally Posted by bobpuls
    Great looking !
    where do you get this colored wood planks for the handles ?
    The black and white stripes are not wood, they are pvc sheets glued together. The colored part is dyed basswood, its a very neutral wood so it takes stain really well.

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  19. hipnotic is online now
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by GinjaNinja
    great work hipnotic! Very professional looking. Some interesting combinations, it will be good to know how they play.
    Thanks GinjaNinja. I already got the chance to try the first 2. Blade 20 plays like a stiffer Korbel, the composition is similar but the WRC gives it a little more power and less hollow feeling. It's great away from the table. Blade 21 is faster than it's frequency suggests. It feels a little bit unstable in the high gears, no my cup of tea.

    As for the 2 other blades i have a feeling they will play great. These triple kiri core blades are really different from everything else out there, the feeling is just great and the power/control ratio is perfect for my game. I'm very curious about the basalt fibre, which is softer than ALC, and the differences between inner/outer fibre composition.

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    #40
    Quote Originally Posted by dorrismillerrr123
    How do you feel - both blades turned out the same? This is not your first time doing this? My husband also wants to do it himself, because he bought twice, and they were of poor quality and poorly glued. Where did you order the materials?
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    The 2 "twin" blades had exactly the same weight before gluing the handles, so i was very happy with the consistency. I sourced the materials from lots of places, just search for the blade builders thread wich has a lot of information regarding construction and materials.

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