Rakza 7 vs tibhar mx-p

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How is it in fast rallies? Is the control on par to have rallies on bh with r7 ?

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On par with mx-p? Sorry, I haven’t used mx-p yet. But I find it very controllable on fasst Bh rallies.

FYI, I’m a penholder using RPB where spin is my game, so topspin rallies.


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They're both great, for all the reasons that other people suggested in these threads. I use mx-p on BH on my homemade limba-limba-kiri, rakza 7 on BH on my OSP Virtuoso +, and fastarc G1 on BH/FH on my homemade limba-ALC-Spruce-kiri.

At least with my technique, I find Mx-p slightly harder to lift heavy underspin with my BH loop, whereas rakza 7 seems to grip the ball a little better on contact and lift it up over the net. Fastarc G-1 is the most rewarding when my stroke is ideal, however, it also punishes me the most with net balls if I'm lazy or take the ball too soon.
 
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This will be hard to understand for anyone who takes a look at the facts and figures, which finds EL-P's sponge to be nominally 3 degrees on average softer than that of MX-P. The hardest EL-P at 44,4 is still softer than the softest MX-P at 45,7.

BUT with the stiffness of the topsheet considered I agree that EL-P feels a lot harder overall than MX-P.

Concur. Could never like EL-P on FH. Overall harder IMO.
 
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Rakza 7 was my choice before to replace the now banned Adidas P7.
I recently bought Rakza7 and before the older R7 came with Yasaka sticky protector sheets in the packet. But these newer sheets dint have it! Any ideas if the rubber formula is changed ? Or if R7 is now even softer than before? [emoji1] I hope I didn't buy fake [emoji14]

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I used to be a tenergy user, but recently changed to r7 on FH and for my BH max both... I must say that with R 7 is more easier to engage sponge, more control and a lot of spin, still not as much as t05 or mx p, but you can feel that r7 spins and grips the ball rlly well with a lot of safety both BH and FH top spin shots. Currently my set up is koto outer ALC blade with R7 and I am very happy with it. I ve used MX P before to try it on allwood blades and I must say that its one of the fastest rubbers i ve used and hard to control, because its too bouncy. Compare to r7, mx p has more spin, and more speed but hard to control, short game is difficult and more responsive to incoming spin. With R7 is easirer to spin and engage sponge, with mx p my fh top spins go too long. Both rubbers play nice on koto alc blades. Mx p is not so durable as r7, i noticed that r7 has nice durability.
 
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I recently bought Rakza7 and before the older R7 came with Yasaka sticky protector sheets in the packet. But these newer sheets dint have it! Any ideas if the rubber formula is changed ? Or if R7 is now even softer than before? [emoji1] I hope I didn't buy fake [emoji14]

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It's the same as it always was, it just doesn't come with the protector sheets anymore, it's been 3-4 years now. While it was nice of Yasaka to give those out, they probably wanted to cut cost.
 
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It's a matter of preference. Since your handle is red, I'd do black on FH to add some contrast...
That is one of the reason, not main reason. I have heard that some rubbers have better grip in black.
Before getting mx-p on bh (red), I played briefly with my friend's mx-p (black). It had marginally better grip than mine. I might be wrong here but that is what I felt. So I wanna make sure I get a rubber with good grip on fh.

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That is one of the reason, not main reason. I have heard that some rubbers have better grip in black.
Before getting mx-p on bh (red), I played briefly with my friend's mx-p (black). It had marginally better grip than mine. I might be wrong here but that is what I felt. So I wanna make sure I get a rubber with good grip on fh.

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Black rubbers are known to be marginally grippier indeed.
 
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I always assumed this was entirely psychological, the CNT effect... Stuck a red R7 on my forehand and a black one on backhand (back in the day you wouldn't even ask, at least in France... FH was red!). Well I am now using my blade in reverse, with the xiom label inside my palm, reason being that the black one is definitely more lively. In my case I don't think it is due to the topsheet, rather the sponge being thicker than on the other side even though they should both be 2.0mm. At least, it is the feeling I have. Hard to know for sure, though! Chances are, any two rubbers even of the same colour and thickness will play (ever so slightly) differently. Good tip basing your choice on handle colour, ahah. Probably as objective a factor as any, when it comes to that.
 
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Concur. Could never like EL-P on FH. Overall harder IMO.

Yes. Overall harder due to stiff topsheet, but softer sponge in any case when looking at the figures.

That´s what I meant - from only looking at the sponge hardness you´d get the impression EL-P has to be softer, and one might get confused.
 
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Chances are, any two rubbers even of the same colour and thickness will play (ever so slightly) differently.

Indeed, as one of your identical 2.0 mm (for example) rubbers might be 1.96 and the other 2.03

The colour myth, well nuff said about that. It won´t die, so let it be ...
 
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If your contact with the ball is more of a brushings stroke, i find the r7 better. If it is more on sponge compression mxp is better.
One of the reason of getting each. Initially I am thinking to use mx-p on fh since it has powerful sponge. If I feel that topsheet is too hard, i will twiddle and use r7 on fh and mx-p on bh as before. Since I like to do bh flicks a lot and open from backhand(close table) and when rallies are mid long, i counter/block and never attempt a full swing for bh loop, r7 seems initially good.
I hope this setup works for me.

P.S. I really like h3 neo on my fh and it has never disappointed me in practice sessions and matches. It has good power, durability, enough spin, blocks, everything but the only problem I face is not playing well in even slightly humid conditions. In tournaments, h3 neo slips a lot, which eventually decreases my attack counts. Since I like to open from both wings, a traditional close table attacker, and if I get passive in this part, I won't be able to play my natural game. Hence my confidence loses and I start playing ball a bit late, and do weak contacts with the ball and eventually perform bad. The only aspect where h3 neo played bad - humid.

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One of the reason of getting each. Initially I am thinking to use mx-p on fh since it has powerful sponge. If I feel that topsheet is too hard, i will twiddle and use r7 on fh and mx-p on bh as before. Since I like to do bh flicks a lot and open from backhand(close table) and when rallies are mid long, i counter/block and never attempt a full swing for bh loop, r7 seems initially good.
I hope this setup works for me.

P.S. I really like h3 neo on my fh and it has never disappointed me in practice sessions and matches. It has good power, durability, enough spin, blocks, everything but the only problem I face is not playing well in even slightly humid conditions. In tournaments, h3 neo slips a lot, which eventually decreases my attack counts. Since I like to open from both wings, a traditional close table attacker, and if I get passive in this part, I won't be able to play my natural game. Hence my confidence loses and I start playing ball a bit late, and do weak contacts with the ball and eventually perform bad. The only aspect where h3 neo played bad - humid.

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If you like H3N and play well with it in non-humid conditions, why not try 999T boosted with a few layers of falco/seamoon, etc.? I played in a gym with no air conditioning multiple hot, rainy days, and I sweat VERY bad, and never had an issue with the humidity. Unboosted it feels very slow compared to H3N but I would imagine some booster may bring it close. It's much cheaper if you get it from Eacheng, 2 sheets for under 10 USD.
 
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