What’s the composition of these blades? (See pictures)

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I just got two new blades and I can’t find anything on the composition of them:
1) Yasaka Sweden Extra
2) Yasaka Silver All Wood

Attached are pictures of the plies.
Both are 5-ply all wood blades.
I read that Sweden Extra has anegre (anigre) as an outer ply, but nothing on the inner plies. Yasaka’s website says the Silver All Wood has a harder (red-colored) outer ply and more flexible inner plies, but no specifics.

If someone can identify the composition, please let me know! I will later submit an entry to stervinou.net
 

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says I would recommend all wood. Samsonov Alpha sgs is the...
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Yeah that sounds right. My least favorite blade.
 
says I would recommend all wood. Samsonov Alpha sgs is the...
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Any particular reason?

Too bizzare a build. Extremely hard outer ply wood, plays like a steel pan when combined with hard rubbers, and I like hard rubbers for forehand.
Too stiff for me. Maybe it was meant for soft/medium-soft rubbers more. Or for people who like frying pans.
 
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Too bizzare a build. Extremely hard outer ply wood, plays like a steel pan when combined with hard rubbers, and I like hard rubbers for forehand.
Too stiff for me. Maybe it was meant for soft/medium-soft rubbers more. Or for people who like frying pans.
Classified as Medium Soft on Revspin.
 
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Yeah that sounds right. My least favorite blade.

Intersting! The anigre to me plays softer than the koto in many other blades (H301 which you loved). I felt like it was more a medium wood, harder than limba, softer than koto. Maybe it has something to do with how it pairs with the rest of the composition.
 
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Intersting! The anigre to me plays softer than the koto in many other blades (H301 which you loved). I felt like it was more a medium wood, harder than limba, softer than koto. Maybe it has something to do with how it pairs with the rest of the composition.

My custom blade is anegre/limba/alc/kiri/alc/limba/koto. I can offer a direct comparative experience of the two, for whatever it’s worth. (I also have played with a Treiber K, of the Viscaria family, and also have a Sweden Extra as a backup/fun blade, and love it well.)

Both anegre and koto are not soft like hinoki, and also a bit firmer than limba. Both have a crisp feeling upon ball contact, but you still feel you’re grabbing the ball and hanging on to it for a bit. No frying pan by a long mile, unless you epoxy one of the more aggressive fibers directly beneath it.

The bite of koto is a bit sharper, whereas anegre has a slightly chewier bite. Koto comes to life a bit earlier on in the hitting curve, but anegre has the longest breath of the two.

That being said, they are pretty close to one another. Unlike hinoki, cypress, limba (all soft, some even mushy) or walnut, mahagony, rosewood or (yikes!) bamboo, hard to extremely hard. Although it’s hard for me not to get sentimental at the feel of walnut, but that’s another story.
 
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Anegre for sure is softer than koto. I played with Sweden Extra and this is medium hard blade.

FOR SURE!
Except it's 50 points higher in janka hardness, so it's not.

Also compare the thickness of the top ply of the YSE and the DHS301... It's not only about the wood being actually harder.

I'm not sure you guys have done your research
 
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Except it's 50 points higher in janka hardness, so it's not.

I have both at Janka 930lbf. Are you sure?

Also compare the thickness of the top ply of the YSE and the DHS301... It's not only about the wood being actually harder.

Of course. And individual samples will vary, wood being wood.
 
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It's not only de Janka hardness that matters, and in this case they are close enough that we can assume they equivalent. However, koto is stiffer than anigre by 2 GPa. All other variables being equal, a koto blade will feel stiffer than anigre. But i don't know the composition of the YSE and never played with one, so i might be stiffer. The H301 doesn't feel very stiff...
 
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I think we should be careful when talking about hardness versus stiffness. I was under the impression that hardness refers to the crisp and direct feel, while stiffness refers to how flexible the blade is. For me, koto seems to have a hard feel. But the blade itself could be flexible (and therefore not feel like you’re hitting with a 2x4). Additionally, I also read somewhere that some woods have a different feeling based on what’s beneath it. I haven’t tried the Sweden Extra, yet, but it looks to me like the top ply is thinner than the second layer. I’ll put on some rubbers after my upcoming tournaments and give it a go
 
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A few other potential factors to throw in to the mix: the finish on the blade, has it been sealed or varnished in some way?, the level of moisture that is present in the wood and the glue type used. Add these to those listed above and there are a significant amount of variables making like for like comparisons difficult.
 
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A few other potential factors to throw in to the mix: the finish on the blade, has it been sealed or varnished in some way?, the level of moisture that is present in the wood and the glue type used. Add these to those listed above and there are a significant amount of variables making like for like comparisons difficult.

That's very true.
Another thing I'm not a fan of in Yasaka blades in general is varnish they use on their blades.
The 301, by comparison, comes unsealed.
Very true.
 
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I’ve been playing with a Yasaka Extra for a few years now, and for the past week been contemplating picking up an H301. So Im happy to have stumbled on this thread as the discussion between the outer plies is interesting to me. Now Im very curious how the two play lol.

308af4df70998cdb8692785f289ba11b.jpg


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JST

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I’ve been playing with a Yasaka Extra for a few years now, and for the past week been contemplating picking up an H301.

I've plaid with both and need to say there is huge difference in speed and control, at least to me. At some point you might feel YSE as too slow and it's good to move but jumping straight to H301 isn't the most logical move (at least it wasn't for me). However H301 is well regarded blade on many forums so if you understand that this is kind of different animal and you don't have specific expectations then go ahead and try it.
 
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I've plaid with both and need to say there is huge difference in speed and control, at least to me. At some point you might feel YSE as too slow and it's good to move but jumping straight to H301 isn't the most logical move (at least it wasn't for me). However H301 is well regarded blade on many forums so if you understand that this is kind of different animal and you don't have specific expectations then go ahead and try it.
Thanks for the advice. I was assuming that since the carbon is next to the core that it wouldn't be THAT fast, but I guess the koto doesn't help much either.
 
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