Short pimple rubbers

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I have a friend that play with Waran, i think he likes it. On a defensive blade? are you a chopper? or how do you play? If you are chopper i think the short pimples are way to fast.
 
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Yeah i am a modern defender and going to Change my game to
Short pimples on my backhand to attack and block, (close to the table). I have a good all round game. But would like to change to short pimples on my back hand.

So you are going to become an offensive player? I think you should change blade if you want to attack and block close to the table. If you play with short pimple and close to the table you want a hard and fast blade. I think you will play better with this than with a defensive blade.
 
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I play with it on a tbs. I find you can get a lot more spin than with regular short pips which allows you to play loops easier whilst still being able to punch through spin. However, it falls short (literally) at mid distance when attacking which I miss being able to do.

Timo boll spirit is a great blade! I think all short pimple is bad from mid distance. Everything lower than the highest point with short pimple is bad in my opinion.
 
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Yeah that is true. I will experiment with blades and see what is best. The short pimples could be to soft on a defensive blade. I was an offensive player 3-4 years ago with inverted rubbers but changed to modern defensive..now want to try short pimples to see how I get on.

The blade Will be to soft for the short pimples. Do not write the pimples off before trying them on a harder blade.

Regarding pimples i think rakza po and Haifu dolphin to be pretty good.

Good luck with your game!
 

MOG

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MOG

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Jordan

I play with short/mid pimples on bh Spinlord Keiler. Please listen to advice from Lula, he is an excellent pips player and gives very good advice.
Since I have moved to a faster stiffer blade (sanwei fextra) my pip play has improved a lot. My fh needs work, but if you want short pips you really be better with carbon or 7 ply blade, especially if you re going to play closer to the table.
 
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Some like the Waran, I hated it. perhaps the topsheet was too hard for me but I found the TSP Spectol 21 to be much more controllable. I also found medium pips like the 563 effective and Nittaku Pimple Mini to be very fun if you have the stamina.
 
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Ditto, the comment about about hitting balls back from the table or below the net. In this case you just try to return the ball as low as possible.

The real SP experience can be had with 802. He Zhi Wen used it for the longest time. It can do just about anything except reverse the top spin of a good loop. Then it is best to just block it back. I like 1.5mm. I have played my best in leagues using Rakza 7 on the FH and 802 1.5mm on the back hand. 802 is also good for chopping when mounted on a defensive blade. The 802 that I bought from zeropong in the past is mounted on a soft 35 degree sponge. It wasn't fast but I played close to the table and played angles. What I liked about the setup is that the opponent had to adjust to two rubbers. The 802 usually just killed spin. It was hard to change the direction of spin. It is relatively easy to roll a back spin to return a top spin. I have bought many sheets of 802, 802-1, 799 and 802-40.

I really don't see the purpose of buying SP that are spinnier than 802-40. I don't see what more expensive SPs will provide. One can buy faster SPs and spinnier SP but you might as well buy a cheap inverted rubber then.

One of my practice partners is Chinese and play c-pen TPB with 802 1.5 mm until the last year. A couple of years ago he was on table 1 at the club league play. Now he uses a TSP spin pips. Obviously we haven't had league play in a while.
 
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As long as you get a softer 802-40. The ones I have tried from stores from Europe is rock hard despite saying it is 40 degree? Very hard to play with and feel like the speed bottoms out when the ball have reached the opponent. Bought two from our Chinese coach that got his from some pro and those were also 40 and one 35 and they were actually soft.

The thickness is probably how you want to play. I think if you want to mostly smash and create your own power then the thickest is best. Play with more effect and very close to the table I can imagine thinner can work.
 
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Sponges absorb energy. Sponges do not generate energy. Therefore thicker spongers will be slower. However, thicker sponges allow the ball to sink into the rubber more so a thicker rubber will have better grip due to increased surface contact.

A 1mm sponge will feel twice as hard as a 2mm sponge even though they are made of the same material. You can think of a 2 mm sponge as being two 1mm sponges. If a force will compress a 1mm sponge 0.1mm, the same force will compress a 2mm sponge 0.2mm. Each 1mm thickness of a 2mm sponge will compress 0.1mm.
 
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Sponges absorb energy. Sponges do not generate energy. Therefore thicker spongers will be slower. However, thicker sponges allow the ball to sink into the rubber more so a thicker rubber will have better grip due to increased surface contact.

A 1mm sponge will feel twice as hard as a 2mm sponge even though they are made of the same material. You can think of a 2 mm sponge as being two 1mm sponges. If a force will compress a 1mm sponge 0.1mm, the same force will compress a 2mm sponge 0.2mm. Each 1mm thickness of a 2mm sponge will compress 0.1mm.


After trying all kinds of short pips, I tend to agree. Thinner rubbers seam faster (when I smash hard enough).

But I also compared a 1.8mm Spinpips Red to a max. On a flat table bounce, the max consistently bounced higher. I'm guessing the response is not linear, and that the sponge does provide some elasticity on less than maximum effort shots.

Care to elaborate?

 
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