Can this blade be repaired?

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A friend of mine asked me to glue a new sheet of MX-P to the forehand side of his blade. He told me that a little bit of wood came off the blade previously. This kind of looks like a huge chunk of the outer ply is missing.

I’m wondering if it’s worth it to try using wood glue or some other method to even out the surface. It’s a Stiga Offensive Classic (Chinese penhold).


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Another option is to take a 4" x 4" block of wood and cover it with wax paper. Fill the hole with wood putty and clamp the blade with the wax-paper covered block of wood on the side with the putty. You might want another 4" x 4" block on the other side, or at least 2 x 4 to keep the blade flat.

I would imagine it will play really oddly, though, so your friend is probably going to need a new blade.
 
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If he doesn't mind playing with a blade that looks like this then you may as well not even bother to repair it and just glue the rubbers on
 
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c801624940b7dfa04ee2fb32ac946484.jpg


A friend of mine asked me to glue a new sheet of MX-P to the forehand side of his blade. He told me that a little bit of wood came off the blade previously. This kind of looks like a huge chunk of the outer ply is missing.

I’m wondering if it’s worth it to try using wood glue or some other method to even out the surface. It’s a Stiga Offensive Classic (Chinese penhold).


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Depending on how much one loves his/her blade a repair would make sense.
I know blade makers and restaurators that repair these damages on a regular without people even noticing that it's been repaired.

I once had an inner crack in one of my Hinoki blades at a very delicate area, at the neck between handle and head, and even this ugly damage was repaired smoothly.

In your case the guy i know would try to find out what kind of wood was used in your blade. (the old STIGA Offensive woods had a walnut top ply, the newer ones don't, for instance) then either try to find a veneer of the same wood same thickness or at best find an unrepairable blade to use bits of its top ply and then repair like shown in the following short vid.

 
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I have to be honest. I see no good reason to repair it.

I am confident it can be done in any number of ways. However, if you don't get a really good wood worker to do it, if you don't know the original gluing process the blade manufacturer used for gluing the top ply, if you don't know what thickness and what kind of wood and how it was treated to make the blade, you will end up with a decently large area that feels significantly different than the rest of the blade.

And that weird area will be right in the center of what should be your sweet spot.

Think about what it would feel like to hit a ball with a blade with a top ply of wood filler, or epoxy, or a totally random piece of wood in one spot would feel.

I would just get a new blade and, perhaps, seal the next blade before you put rubbers on. Or get a blade with a slightly better build quality where that is less likely to happen.
 
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View attachment 18180First,cut surface careful like this by knife.
View attachment 18181Next,find some think wood with the Yellow woodworking glue。Last,Compression and grinding:D

One thing I would say, the damage to this blade was at the edges. Not in the center of your hitting sweet spot. What you did can be done. The question is how will it feel to have a completely different surface on part of the hitting zone in the center of the blade face.
 
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One thing I would say, the damage to this blade was at the edges. Not in the center of your hitting sweet spot. What you did can be done. The question is how will it feel to have a completely different surface on part of the hitting zone in the center of the blade face.
Plus, SZLC, rather more expensive to replace than a Stiga Offensive Classic.
 
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Yeah, it looks like I’m just going to skip the repairs. Thanks for the videos though.

It appears that the entire outer ply is coming loose. Probably a manufacturing defect. As someone said earlier, I could peel the whole thing off, but that might be even weirder.

I’m just going to glue the rubber as is. My friend swears that he will buy a new blade after this sheet of MX-P wears down. LoL


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Recommend your friend to get YEO for his next blade. Yasaka blade is already sealed by the factory, so he doesn't have to worry about the top ply splintering again.

That’s exactly what I had recommended. I think that’s what he will do.


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