Blade recommendation from Butterfly for Frictionless Anti Rubber

This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Nov 2015
277
110
453
My clubmate has decided to try Frictionless Anti (he currently plays a long pimple blocking game). He is an older gentleman who's not so good at the internet so asked me to find out some information for him.

Our club is sponsored by Butterfly and we get discount on Butterfly goods which is why I specifically ask about Butterfly.

The question is, what Butterfly blades will work with frictionless anti such as Dr Neubauer ABS? He asks if the innerforce blades would work? Or are there better alternatives? He's positive on the forehand, likes to attack with both spin and flat hitting, obviously being close to the table he blocks a lot on the forehand too.

Any recommendations please?

Thanks
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
May 2016
322
223
548
I'm guessing the innerforce blades aren't good for it then?

They're slower, so the blocks will be softer but have less reversal. Depends on the playstyle he wants to stick with mainly. Generally you want a hard, stiff blade for anti blocking. With dampening sponges, you can use super fast blades and still handle them easily
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Well-Known Member
Feb 2018
1,088
754
2,410
Read 2 reviews
I train quite often with a lady (40/50-something) who won youth champs here in Sweden during 80ies. She still uses the same setup which is a Stiga allround with Sriver and Butterfly Superanti (she hasn't replaced this rubber since 1980-something). She's still very good and wins most tournaments the few times that she enters one.

I also train with another 70+ guy who uses Superanti on both sides and I believe that he uses some kind of ancient Banda ALL+ blade.

Why not just recommend him to get a Grubba ALL+?
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Well-Known Member
Feb 2018
1,088
754
2,410
Read 2 reviews
But keep in mind the frictionless anti rubbers aren't like the friction anti rubbers

Just out of curiosity as I've never played against them: what is the difference in terms on how they behave then blocking?

(I guess that my training partners Superanti is pretty much frictionless due to the age of the rubber)

Sorry to the OP for the diversion.
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
May 2016
322
223
548
Just out of curiosity as I've never played against them: what is the difference in terms on how they behave then blocking?

(I guess that my training partners Superanti is pretty much frictionless due to the age of the rubber)

Sorry to the OP for the diversion.

The frictionless anti are basically like the old frictionless long pips. About as much reversal as you can get now. The super anti has some grip and so it more kills off the spin, rather than reversing it. The frictionless anti rubber feels like a harder piece of cardboard. In that if you bend it, even a little, the surface will wrinkle and never be smooth again! I've had many ruined trying to change and swap them...
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Well-Known Member
Jul 2017
1,772
856
2,945
I have a Dr Neubauer Matador blade with T25 and Megablock. The Matador blade isn't too expensive, I think it cost $55. Dr Neubauer and Der Marerial Spezialist make blade specifically for playing with LP or Anti. I would be a safe bet to get a paddle from them. My Matador blade works well for blocking with Anti or LP. It probably isn't the best looping setup. I have a TB ALC with Rakza 7 2mm on both sides for that.

You don't want a blade that is too fast since you will be blocking at the table and opponents will try to hit the ball hard enough that it will fly long off your anti. If you get frictionless anti then you must play close to the table. Chopping with Megablock or Buffalo doesn't work. It is possible to chop a little with Best anti Super Anti. Yasaka Anti Power is relatively fast, thick, and has some grip compared to most antis. It is only good if you are going to attack with it too.
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
May 2016
322
223
548
If he did want the Garaydia ZLC, I've got one to sell.

Probably the best finish on any blade I've had - I just found it too quick for flicks and close to the table loops.

It's fantastic at blocks and away from the table shots though!

I thought the garaydia was the easiest blade to BH flick with, and I agree with you that the blocking is outstanding! If you plan to play around the anti rubber, then I don't think you can do much better than any of the garaydia series.

If you want to use the FH more often for winning points, then you want to choose the blade to fit that. You can block/loop with any blade, of course, so it all depends on what you will mainly be doing.

I've used the dr neabauer blades and the DMS ones - they are nice, but nothing special. It's mainly marketing, imo.
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Nov 2015
277
110
453
I thought the garaydia was the easiest blade to BH flick with, and I agree with you that the blocking is outstanding! If you plan to play around the anti rubber, then I don't think you can do much better than any of the garaydia series.

If you want to use the FH more often for winning points, then you want to choose the blade to fit that. You can block/loop with any blade, of course, so it all depends on what you will mainly be doing.

I've used the dr neabauer blades and the DMS ones - they are nice, but nothing special. It's mainly marketing, imo.

He would use the blade for Anti blocking/punching/pushing.. then on the forehand blocking, driving and spin looping close/mid distance to the table. I feel it would mostly be changing from Anti blocking to spin looping a lot to vary the spin and pace. I can imagine a decent amount of blocking on the forehand too.
 
Top