VARNISH BLADE - According to Varnish the blade i have questions ! - VARNISH BLADE

chikuy · Apr 11, 2019

Hi

Anybody who knows about this theme please take me out of my doubts

i have varnished my blade with a normal wood varnish but i least i diluted a little just because it was very viscous

so my question are...

1-my blade weight more now?
2-Shoud it be hurting my blade in some ways because of the chemicals that the varnish has it self ?
3-Did it make fast , slow or that not has nothing to do with velocity ? ( i didn't taste it before vanishing so i don't know how is like without the varnish )

P1ngP0ng3r · Apr 11, 2019

All depends how much varnish you used. If you add something to a blade, it adds weight. So answer to your first question is yes. However, you won't feel the difference in weight by a thin layer of lacquer.

Using lacquer doesn't hurt the wood of the blade.

Your blade could feel a bit faster, as you make the outside layers harder by covering it in lacquer. Especially if you have a soft wood outer layer, you might feel the difference.

PS: personally I wouldn't use a regular wood varnish, but a thin layer of lacquer from rev3 or Donic.

chikuy · Apr 11, 2019

I feel better now jeje, thank you for your quick response P1ngP0ng3er, i made sure that i applied it a real thin layer on my blade, guess never know the difference between my blade varnished and no varnished unless i buy the same blade again :S

P1ngP0ng3r said:
All depends how much varnish you used. If you add something to a blade, it adds weight. So answer to your first question is yes. However, you won't feel the difference in weight by a thin layer of lacquer.

Using lacquer doesn't hurt the wood of the blade.

Your blade could feel a bit faster, as you make the outside layers harder by covering it in lacquer. Especially if you have a soft wood outer layer, you might feel the difference.

PS: personally I wouldn't use a regular wood varnish, but a thin layer of lacquer from rev3 or Donic.

KM1976 · Apr 11, 2019

I had this issue after apply varnish, that the rubbers were not sticking to the blade properly. So I had to use sandpaper, as I am not a woodworking pro, I was very scared that I might damage the top thin Koto layer of my blade somehow by mistake. Also, I lacquered the handle of the blade, which made it slipper and difficult to hold. So, although I purchased a can of lacquer from Home Depot, I am not going to use it anymore.

chikuy · Apr 11, 2019

Oh well i never had problem with gluing the rubber after the vanishing, i just went to a local hardware store and asked for the comun one , i diluted it a little and put a soft layer onto my blade

KM1976 said:
I had this issue after apply varnish, that the rubbers were not sticking to the blade properly. So I had to use sandpaper, as I am not a woodworking pro, I was very scared that I might damage the top thin Koto layer of my blade somehow by mistake. Also, I lacquered the handle of the blade, which made it slipper and difficult to hold. So, although I purchased a can of lacquer from Home Depot, I am not going to use it anymore.

KM1976 · Apr 11, 2019

chikuy said:
Oh well i never had problem with gluing the rubber after the vanishing, i just went to a local hardware store and asked for the comun one , i diluted it a little and put a soft layer onto my blade

Oh, thanks man. I didn't knew that. I suspected that I am missing some crucial step. Since even after applying a thin layer of lacquer the rubbers didn't stick properly. That created a huge mess since after removing and re gluing, the rubbers don't align for me at the edges and I don't like it that way

splasher78 · Apr 14, 2019

As mentioned earlier. Rev 3 varnish made specifically for blades is a better choice than regular wood varnish. In my experience, i put way too much on my first try and it actually muted the vibration of the blade and added some weight but nothing too outrageous. I contacted and experienced TT buddy and he suggested I sand a layer of varnish with some very fine grit sandpaper and sanding block to remove some varnish which worked! i now use sparingly when putting on a new blade. all you need is just enough for the varnish to soak in the wood and thats it! it may not seem like enough but trust me it is! I did this to my dhs301 which is NOTORious for splintering and was afraid I didn't apply enough varnish but lo and behold when I did my first rubber change. No splintering at all. Less is always more. Remember its easier to add little by little but a headache to remove it if over applied. Hope this helps.

splasher78 · Apr 14, 2019

KM1976 said:
Oh, thanks man. I didn't knew that. I suspected that I am missing some crucial step. Since even after applying a thin layer of lacquer the rubbers didn't stick properly. That created a huge mess since after removing and re gluing, the rubbers don't align for me at the edges and I don't like it that way

IF the rubbers don't stick properly just take a small piece of the finest grit sandpaper and lightly sand the blade face all around just to get the varnish coat a rough surface, it will look ugly before glueing due to the scratches in the varnish but this solved my problem and when you remove the rubber the next time the blade surface will look like new. Just be careful not to sand too much where you are actually sanding the wood. Hope this helps.

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VARNISH BLADE - According to Varnish the blade i have questions ! - VARNISH BLADE

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