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    1. Top | #1
      GusShnaps is offline
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      problems with technique (or new rubbers??)

      I've purchased new rubbers (Fastarc G-1 and C-1) and decided to test them out.
      They were extremely different from my previous setup, which was with Mantra M, my consistency had gotten a lot worse and I felt like I had to use a lot more power to get my shots right, but I figured it was normal, since I was changing my setup. My serves were great though.

      I've gotten a bit used to it in the past few weeks, yet is still feels uncomfortable to attack with.

      It wasn't until a recent training session (multi ball) when I really felt a lot of difficulty to execute my forehand shots. My coach said my forehand stroke was too short and stiff and that I needed to change my technique, to use more of my body and brush more to have a more complete stroke.

      I thought the only problem was my technique (I believe part of it definitely is), but my coach said he also heard an odd sound coming from my racket. After inspecting it, he pointed out the sponge thickness. I realized I had mistakenly purchased rubbers with 1,4mm sponge (I was using 2,0 mm sponge before). Ugh.

      He said it would be harder for me to execute quality powerful shots with a thinner sponge and that I should change my rubbers.
      I don't really want to do that, since I've just bought new ones, so I want a plan B.

      What should I do to overcome this problem?
      Maybe I should take the opportunity to work on and change my technique? Go back to my used rubbers?
      Please help!

    2. Top | #2
      ffwd is offline
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      change the coach

    3. Top | #3
      Lula is offline
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      I think it can be good for you. You Will learn to create spin and power by yourself and not from the racket. Thinner sponge i also think is harder or you get not so much eko from the sponge so it is less forgiving so you really need to move the feet well and Do the correct stroke to get quality.

      With slower stuff We also learn the importance of putting the ball on the table, good placement and variation because it May be hard to play really hard to kill the ball.

      I think you can use them then change to 2,0 next time you change rubber. I think you can even can benefit from it. Get better technique and better tactics as stated above.

      Keep us updated.

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    5. Top | #4
      Loopadoop is offline
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      You could boost the sponge which will increase the thickness but not to 2.0. Don't boost too much or the the rubber will curl then unplayable.

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    7. Top | #5
      yogi_bear is offline
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      1.4mm is too thin and your spin is way limited if you compress the sponge unless all you do is just brush the ball thin which has limitations too.

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    9. Top | #6
      Bram Vroonland is offline
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      Go back to 2.1 or 2.0 mm asap I'd say. IMHO there's no way you can play an attacking game at a decent level using 1.4 mm.

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    11. Top | #7
      thomas.pong is offline
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      I'd say go back to 1.8 or 2.0mm right away either with your previously used rubbers or by purchasing new ones even if cheaper rubbers (Xiom prices are good). 1.4mm is way too thin for the modern attacking game and the plastic ball.

      Also, once that's done, do focus on your footwork.

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    13. Top | #8
      Airoc is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by thomas.pong View Post
      I'd say go back to 1.8 or 2.0mm right away either with your previously used rubbers or by purchasing new ones even if cheaper rubbers (Xiom prices are good). 1.4mm is way too thin for the modern attacking game and the plastic ball.
      I would also like to back the last three answers.

      1,4 mm isn´t even for beginners anymore.

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    15. Top | #9
      Der_Echte is offline
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      My unsolicited take... Take your losses financially and retire the 1.4mm sponged rubbers ASAP. Burn them with a propane torch or toss them in an incinerator. You made a mistake, but in the big scheme of things, you will play TT for years, and one mistake with rubbers is low single digit percentage of a few years of TT expenditures. Everyone can make a mistake and get over it.

      What is "Good" about a thin sponged rubber? My personal answer is NOTHING. You will not learn how to do all versions of loops with 1.4 mm sponged rubbers.

      However, there still may be a purpose and benefit to such a thin sponged rubber. It will force more direct impact to the ball and adjustment of grip pressure at impact to make a result. This is a TRANSFERABLE skill. Also, it makes you have the ball come into the effective strike zone to have any results. This is also a transferable skill.

      The thing is, when you get a 2.0, 2.1, or 2.2 sponged modern rubber, you have to learn a different impact... but if you are receiving effective coaching and try long enough, you will get the loop stroke down. You won't be fighting against some of the bad habits most other TT learners have, but re-learning and muscle-memory stroke that is already burned-in is a challenge... but not an impossible one.
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    17. Top | #10
      Lula is offline
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      Did not read so well. Never played with 1,5. You proably Do not get so much help from the rubber. But i still say the same. Your techniques and tactics can benefit from this.

      I used a 1,8 unboosted 802 40 which is without inbuilt glue effect. I kept it pretty long before because my technique really needed to be well to get good power. The same for my footwork. With slower rubbers We can not cheat as much with the strokes and the footwork so i think i became better because of this. They are many fast short pimples out there, But i still think 802 40 But now in max thickness is fast enough and it is not so fast so i can not cheat as much. With faster softer rubbers i barely Do not need to Do the correct stroke because i get so much help from the rubber.

      I also learned alot about placement and variation, and aswell keeping the ball on the table ehen i used 1,8. Could not hit really hear so needed to place the ball better. I think there is a common misconception by players level below me that you should loop and hit so hard everytime. If you loop hard in the middle of fh or bh you Will not win. They also miss alot these players.

      Variation, placement and keeping the ball om the table is way more important than playing hard. I think you can learn, are force to lesrn this with slower rubbers.

      As long as you feel that these rubbers Do not make your technique worse i still think you can learn and develop alot from this.

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    19. Top | #11
      mart1nandersson is offline
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      1,0-1,4mm is quite popular among the (old) crowd that chops using inverted. Find someone who is 70+ and sell the rubber to him/her

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    21. Top | #12
      frankhond is offline
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      I recently switched from Mantra M to Fastarc G1. They are quite different and I too have to improve my strokes. The Mantra was doing a lot of the work for me, the Fastarc is very hard and linear in comparison. The Fastarc is 2mm and still a lot less bouncy than the Mantra. Since you will be working on your technique, get the correct thickness that your coach recommends.

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    23. Top | #13
      vik2000 is offline
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      Dafuq? I didn't even know G1 was available in 1.4mm. Either way, that is way too thin and I'd suggest at least 1.8mm. You can still use 2.0mm and continue to develop your skill...

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    25. Top | #14
      yoass is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by vik2000 View Post
      Dafuq? I didn't even know G1 was available in 1.4mm. Either way, that is way too thin and I'd suggest at least 1.8mm. You can still use 2.0mm and continue to develop your skill...
      I looked hard and did find a few forum posts here and there discussing Fastarcs of that thickness, but no retailer offering anything outside 1.8 and 2.0 thickness. Perhaps it is available somewhere that has classic defenders that also know Nittaku exists. Over here, a classic defender below 70 is exceptional, and it's basically all Tackiness C. At 1.2 or 1.0mm.

      My FA-G1 1.8 mm sponge has "thick" printed on it, which makes it plausible for me that a "thin" could also exist, and 2.0 would probably be labeled "max".

      I do note, by the way, that the Fast Arc top sheet looks quite thick, even for that generation. And after playing with it for a few times suspect it has good things to offer defenders, both classic and modern. For offensive players, 1.4mm does not seem all that suitable these days.

    26. Top | #15
      mart1nandersson is offline
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      TT11 has it in 1,4mm.

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    28. Top | #16
      yogi_bear is offline
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      Man. Unless you chop defensively, i dare not recommend it.

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    30. Top | #17
      yoass is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by mart1nandersson View Post
      TT11 has it in 1,4mm.
      I see. And they're calling it "middle" thickness. 1.8 is "thick", 2.0 is "super thick". Interesting perspective there. Me, I like thinner rubbers, and I'd go as far as to consider Nanoflex FT48 at 1.9mm, Vega Pro at 1.8, and Fastarc-G1 at 1.8 very playable. Below that, nah. That's chopper territory.
      Last edited by yoass; 07-15-2019 at 01:07 PM.

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    32. Top | #18
      GusShnaps is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by yoass View Post
      they're calling it "middle" thickness. 1.8 is "thick", 2.0 is "super thick". Interesting perspective there.
      Yep, that was a bit misleading to me haha
      I think It'd be more suitable if they called the rubbers "1.4 - thin", "1.8 - middle" and "2,0 - Max or Thick"

    33. Top | #19
      yoass is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by GusShnaps View Post
      Yep, that was a bit misleading to me haha
      I think It'd be more suitable if they called the rubbers "1.4 - thin", "1.8 - middle" and "2,0 - Max or Thick"
      Yeah, I pinched myself and just now checked. On my FH sits GA8/50 at "medium" thickness. My BH has FA-G1 at "thick".

      "Medium" is 2.0mm here, and "thick" 1.8mm. Go figure.

    34. Top | #20
      Loopadoop is offline
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      After thinking about it, I have played with 1.5mm and know some other low intermediate players who use it. Boost it and see how it plays, you might like it.

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