How do you choose between blades of the same model?

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I can't and won't care as my inconsistancy in techniques far outweighs inconsistancy in same model.
This is probably the most accurate answer.


But then, there is this:

And yes you would do this especially if you are an EJ. Lol

Which outweighs logic :p
 
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A different scenario where I can try all of them.

Also, I would want the heaviest one that is under 98 grams. If there was one that was 99 grams and the next heaviest was 83 grams, I would still take the 99 gram blade. :) But if there was one 99 and one 94 grams, 94 grams would be the one provided there were no defects.

Heavier blades have better feeling. As long as it isn't too heavy for me to get some real and decent acceleration.

Back in 1991 I used to use a Mazanov blade that was 108 grams. Man did that thing feel good. :) But 98 grams is really heavy enough. :)

Also, one time Der_Echte handed me a racket with a blade that weighed 120 grams. That one felt pretty nice too. :) Like wielding the power of the beast. :)
Yeah, I have the bias from thinking that heaviest woods are better in general, be it for blades, guitars, furniture, bookshelf speakers or whatever else.

I actually read a post from you talking about the blade weight in one of the Dominus’s threads. After trying it I really agree with the "get the heaviest you can handle", but also, some people just like the lighter ones. That is why I put the blades having the same weight on the post, to see what else people look for.

I was curious if people would look for density of grains, the tone of the wood for its type, knots, joints, or any other wood nitpicking craziness you can think of.
 
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Korean elite amateurs will hold end of blade in thumb and forefinger, then tap handle against forehead to feel frequency. Also bounce ball on bare blade to hear and feel frequency.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Randomly watching a video, and then there is Petr Korbel himself knocking a blade on his head, just like you mentioned.

Found it funny.

@1:25
https://youtu.be/0Z1HHOLBDQY?t=72

 
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Randomly watching a video, and then there is Petr Korbel himself knocking a blade on his head, just like you mentioned.

Found it funny.

@1:25

Yes, and remarkable. Also, @4:00 — that insane amount of glue! I never do that, as my experiences with gluing have led me to believe that a thin layer creates the stronger bond. Am I wrong?
 
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Yes, and remarkable. Also, @4:00 — that insane amount of glue! I never do that, as my experiences with gluing have led me to believe that a thin layer creates the stronger bond. Am I wrong?

I'm not sure about the bonding strength, but I heard some pros use lots of layers of glue to increase its responsiveness. Maybe Petr Korbel is skipping the "lots of layers" and going straight to "1 layer to rule them all".
 
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The stress of having to choose from a number of identical blades would be a nightmare for me. Not only the niggling feeling that i didn't choose the best one, but the near certainty of feeling that I might have chosen the worst... Despite knowing deep down that it really wouldn't make that much difference to my play. Luckily, I am never in that position.
 
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I always consider my equipment to be the best examples of the type.
It helps me to focus on developing my own margins.
Of coarse its good to know well the particular equipment margins, they can't be changed.
A bad picture of that would jeoperdise the right conclusions what and where is wrong and may throw you in a neverending EJ journey.
 
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Waitaminute, I sort of got that with rubber cement, the speedgluing thing. Surbek slapped his Srivers on soaking from it, I recall vividly.

Is this still a thing with waterbased glues? I would have thought the speedgluers had resorted to booster oils.

I will quote Carl here from another thread, since he is one of the forum members I saw talking about this:

Given that some top players use 12-16 coats of glue on, I doubt you are anywhere near too much. The idea that less glue would take away from the response of the rubber is a bit odd. It is the opposite way around. If the bond between sponge and wood is full and the sponge has mobility while being solidly attached, it will respond to the ball better. That actually means, more glue helps the rubber respond better. Which is part of why some players use so many coats. Most amateur players use one or two coats on the sponge and one on the wood though. And that is a fine amount.

So I guess it is not about the glue changing the sponge properties, as before, but more about the added layer between wood and sponge.
 
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