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    1. Top | #1
      Andre74 is offline
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      Reducing flare in handle

      Hello,
      This is probably going to sound a bit bonkers but here you go.
      I have played with flared handles till a couple of months ago when I got a blade as present, a better blade than the ones I own (supposedly) but with a straight handle. First time I played with it, took me just 10 minutes to make it fly off my hand. Being used to flare and loose grip, it just took off.. I have since used grip tape, I play daily and I got used to it quickly, to the point that now the bottom of a flared handle really bothers me and feels uncomfortable. So I might stick to straight handles from now, but as experiment, I was about to take my flared Yasaka SE and do a bit of a reshaping of the end flare, the idea is to remove the flare by 50% and do a sort of in-between flared-straight. Am I just going to ruin the poor blade forever?Is the handle even partially hollow or I can take as much wood off as I want?
      Last edited by Andre74; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:31 PM. Reason: Typo

    2. Top | #2
      lVegita is offline
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      Before you ruin the poor blade forever, how do you hold the racket?

      I, personally, hold it mostly with my thumb and index finger. The index finger laying on the bottom of the rubber, and the thumb resting on the bevel at end of the handle. This is already enough for me to lock the blade in hand, and preventing it from flying away. The other fingers are just gently supporting the grip, so the handle being flared or straight shouldn't matter for me.

      Try the thumb locking on the bevel thing. The bevel does all the work, even with loose grip.
      Last edited by lVegita; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:35 PM.

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    4. Top | #3
      Andre74 is offline
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      Thanks for the advice. I do pretty much the same as you suggest, I think I have a pretty decent grip and probably even more now that I don’t rely on the flare anymore. But I will surely take the advice and focus on using the bevel more.

      In any case, now I feel that the flared shape gets in the way against the inside of my wrist and I was tempted to shave some off from my spare flared blade... But I get it, it’s a bad idea

    5. Top | #4
      lVegita is offline
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      I believe the bevel use should be a preference thing, people rest the thumb on the rubber and that works fine too. I just mentioned it because your racket went airplane mode haha

      And I just got it that the Yasaka blade is a spare one. If it is, and you have no intent of selling it, then why not? (:





      Edit: On the other hand, YSE is pretty cheap right now on TT11, 22$
      Last edited by lVegita; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:16 PM.

    6. Top | #5
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      There is most likely a hollow space in the handle. But it should not interfere with you filing off some of the flare to make it closer to straight. If you filled to make the handle torpedo to a point (the opposite of a flare), then you would get in trouble with running into the hollow space. But only if the taper was narrower than the lens that says Sweden Extra on the handle where the lens is.

      The hollow space is comfortably narrower than the lens.

      So, no torpedo handle. That aside, you should be fine. But why not buy one with a straight handle and keep the flare for if some day you change again?

      The flare actually helps you use your wrist and get more acceleration on certain shots.
      Last edited by UpSideDownCarl; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:32 AM.
      Spin Everything.

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    8. Top | #6
      thomas.pong is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl View Post
      But why not buy one with a straight handle and keep the flare for if some day you change again?
      I went from FL to ST and back to FL for similar reasons to OP.

      I almost tried to turn my Viscaria and Korbel FL handles into ST but in the end just bought the ST versions and kept the FL. Glad I did since I would have probably butchered these blades a bit and ended up coming back to FL anyway.

      Oddly, I prefer certain blades in FL and others in ST.

    9. Top | #7
      Andre74 is offline
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      than you all for your wise recommendations,I decided to keep the FL as considering the ej issues im experiencing, It’s very possible I to will go back and forth between handle favourite style. I have removed the grip tape from my ST handle and in a couple of days I will check if my hand has really gotten used to ST or if I will witness another take-off..

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    11. Top | #8
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      The EJ Virus is insidious. You may need to get a version of every blade you have in Flare and Straight handles just in case.

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    13. Top | #9
      BlueSkies is offline
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      I have played with a lot of blades. Too many to be precise.


      There are so many versions of the same handles that I wouldn't say that just FL or ST is enough to describe the handles in every case.
      The difference in a Stiga Legend FL and like a Nittaku Acoustic FL are quite substantial in my opinion. Also the old Stiga Stellan Bengtsson is far from the same as a regular ST handle.
      I have a Yasaka Dynamix ST and a Synergy ST. The Dynamix is round, and the Synergy is square. So handles differs a lot.


      For example the classic Viscaria handle is a tad too flared for my liking, so I reduced it. Not a lot, but a little. Some would say I ruined the blade, but I prefer it this way.
      I could have bought a Zhang Jike ALC, which probably would have been better, but I got this Viscaria for a good deal second hand.


      Click image for larger version. 

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    15. Top | #10
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      Unless you have an electric sander, i would not recommend it.

    16. Top | #11
      Andre74 is offline
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      I reduced it a bit at the end but just a bit, rounded the bottom hard edge and all hard edges that were bothering me. It looks really nice but probably not to everyone, and its different enough to make the blade hard to sell. But I never planned to sell such a cheap blade. Btw sandpaper works beautifully, TT blade wood is so soft especially the handle and it’s a pleasure to work it with different grit sandpaper. I got carried away and I even engraved my initials into the bottom of the handle. I really didn’t have anything better to do that night!

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    18. Top | #12
      lVegita is offline
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    19. Top | #13
      Andre74 is offline
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      Hahaha sure this weekend I will post a couple of snaps of my victim!

    20. Top | #14
      Andre74 is offline
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      Click image for larger version. 

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      Not sure I managed to attach the photos,
      its taking me longer to find how to attach photos
      via mobile phone than the handle reduction/smoothing job I did!
      Anyway If photos work, this is the smooth all over handle which
      feels a bit like one of those smooth Donic handles.
      Still need to glue rubbers and try it.

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    22. Top | #15
      lVegita is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Andre74 View Post
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      Not sure I managed to attach the photos,
      its taking me longer to find how to attach photos
      via mobile phone than the handle reduction/smoothing job I did!
      Anyway If photos work, this is the smooth all over handle which
      feels a bit like one of those smooth Donic handles.
      Still need to glue rubbers and try it.
      Looking comfy!

      I too refinish my handles by hand to be smoother, specially at the wings like you did there. I don’t round the tops though, I like this part square with the rubbers.

      I do that right out of the package, it is one of the fun parts of having a new blade for me. I don’t even understand how most people that I see don’t even think about this possibility.
      Last edited by lVegita; 1 Week Ago at 06:12 PM.

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    24. Top | #16
      Andre74 is offline
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      Yes I agree, it’s nice to customise our own bat and do a bit of arts&crafts with it LOL, unless you plan to sell it.
      I wasn’t sure about rounding the tops neither but got carried away. In fact I wonder if I lose the ability to find the top with my thumb and read the angle.. I was in fact tempted to refine this part (since blade is naked right now) and sharpen it up a bit but in a non-symmetrically way, based on where I place the thumb!

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