What is a good beginner paddle for a defensive player?

says beginner (rating 700)
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I'm a beginner and have been playing a lot at the office for the past year using some cheap Chinese paddles from Amazon. We have a big tournament coming up in a couple months and I'd like to get something better.

I'm a defensive player and I just wait for the other player to make a mistake. I mostly just hit pushes or chops with my backhand, and try to put enough backspin on the ball to force the other player to hit it into the net. My chop isn't great though, and I want to get better at it. I'm also able to hit back a lot of the other player's smashes, so a paddle with good control would be good.

I've been reading about tacky and non-tacky rubbers and am not sure which would be better for me. I'm not sure if those paddles we got from Amazon have a tacky or non-tacky rubber. They are made in China, so does that mean the rubber is tacky?

Maybe I should get a non-tacky rubber on one side, and a tacky rubber on the other side, so I can try them out and see the difference? That might affect my serve though since I try to hit a backspin serve using the forehand side.

I'm also not sure if I should try short/long pips on one side. I believe I read that outward facing pips are better for choppers?
 
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If you are a beginner, it is probably too soon to really say that you are a defensive player. Maybe you just didn’t learn to attack yet.
My ultimate cheap Chinese setup would be
Blade: Yinhe Earth 3
Rubbers: Sanwei Taiji Plus both sides

Also, it is against the rules to play with pips before having a proper forehand.
 
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Yasaka sweden classic is a good Allround- to DEF blade. If you want to go more chop heavy, try donic defplay senso v3
 
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I'm a beginner and have been playing a lot at the office for the past year using some cheap Chinese paddles from Amazon. We have a big tournament coming up in a couple months and I'd like to get something better.

I'm a defensive player and I just wait for the other player to make a mistake. I mostly just hit pushes or chops with my backhand, and try to put enough backspin on the ball to force the other player to hit it into the net. My chop isn't great though, and I want to get better at it. I'm also able to hit back a lot of the other player's smashes, so a paddle with good control would be good.

I've been reading about tacky and non-tacky rubbers and am not sure which would be better for me. I'm not sure if those paddles we got from Amazon have a tacky or non-tacky rubber. They are made in China, so does that mean the rubber is tacky?

Maybe I should get a non-tacky rubber on one side, and a tacky rubber on the other side, so I can try them out and see the difference? That might affect my serve though since I try to hit a backspin serve using the forehand side.

I'm also not sure if I should try short/long pips on one side. I believe I read that outward facing pips are better for choppers?

Based on what you describe in this post you should use exactly what you guys have in the office. What you already have is the perfect racket for what you are doing.

If you wanted to learn and develop all your strokes, the rackets you got from Amazon would probably still be the right thing for you....at least for a while.

Until you have a solid FH and BH Loop, Drive, Counterhit, Block, Push and Chop (push and chop are not the same thing), you should not use pips. Pips would only make it so you did not learn the basic strokes.

If most of what you are doing in a match is pushing and hoping your opponent misses, you need nothing more than what you are using.

However, I would say, it would be worth you trying to learn all the basic strokes and how to start using them in match play.

It does sound like your block is decent if you can return the "smashes" of your opponents.
 
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As a coach, I would highlight two things to consider: Appropriate equipment and strategic development.

First - equipment, since forums are goo-goo ga ga crazy over equipment.

I would say to go for a blade that is not so fast, think ALL to ALL+ blades (wooden) with feel. You could go DEF of DEF+, but I would save that for after developing more baseline skill level. That is a huge range, likely hundreds of blades can fit that bill.

Stiga Allround variants are a usual suspect out of hundreds possible. It doesn't cost too much either.

As for rubber, there are a few thoughts. Some would say to go with a thin sponge control rubber, like say a 1.7 mm sponged soft of some control rubber. I think 2.0 is reasonable as long as it is control oriented. That leaves hundreds of combinations, maybe thousands. Don't overthink it. A control oriented 2.0 or even max rubber will allow you to learn and develop.

Cheapo rubbers like Focus III or Rapid soft are the middle ground... any SOFT, SOUND, or SPIN version of Euro brand rubbers is a good idea too.

Second - Strategic development.

You gain spin on pushes by grabbing the ball with a loose touch and accelerating the whip. It doesn't take much space to do that and you gotta stay loose with a step to the ball if needed. Pushing gets easy once one stops trying so hard and loosens up, then learns how to whip with the right grip and bio-mechanics.

There is more to defense than chopping, there is also fishing, retrieving, lobbing, pushing from distance, and soft topspin defense. All of these seem to be better learned by players when they goof off with an objective after learning something. It is all about touch and vision, how you want to be instinctive, how you want to link your possible shots together given the opponent and how you feel.

From your description, you are at a lower level with a very long way to go for development. Good news is you have a good attitude (you want to be calm and allow the other player to hang themselves) and it isn't that difficult to develop the shots that will be money for you down the road with that play style. You just have to get good touch and quality from there.
 
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The goal of that equipment selection is to give you the chance to develop the baseline shot techniques you will need to be successful. Middle of the road control oriented equipment gives you the ability to feel the ball and make control for those shots as you learn. When you develop skill with that class of equipment, it gives you the flexibility to move in another easier to control direction when you discover the shots and exact play style you will grow into. (Remember, MANY styles of all-round or defensive play)

That is not the ONLY way, but a proven one.

You could of course also select the final equipment appropriate for your desired play and try to adjust to it. Can work, but likely to take longer. TT isn't overly easy to learn and it takes time, effort, competent help, and constant feedback/evaluation and the cycle of what it takes to improve.
 
says beginner (rating 700)
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Based on what you describe in this post you should use exactly what you guys have in the office. What you already have is the perfect racket for what you are doing.

These office paddles have gotten a lot of play over the past year, so the rubbers might be starting to get worn out. I know a lot of you guys change rubbers once every few months. Also, I did get a robot at home recently, and the only paddles I have at home are cheap and 15 years old. I definitely need to get a new one!

Also, one of my coworkers got his own paddle and his game improved significantly. He now seems to be able to generate more spin than any of us can.


It does sound like your block is decent if you can return the "smashes" of your opponents.

I'm not sure if block is the right word because I know "block" has a certain meaning. I typically stand far back and can sometimes return 2 or 3 smashes until they finally hit a wayward smash or I fail to return one. When I do return it, it's always a weak pop up that they can easily smash again.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I have never assembled a paddle before, so a preassembled one might be better for me. Or one from one of those sites that can assemble it for you - I heard Coles TT can do that.
 
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You heard right about Cole assembling the bat for you, just be sure to add that in the notes of your order and also to email him to make sure.

So what if "Blocking" is done away from the table, sure it is Retrieving, but you still got the ball back. Sure, you gave opponent more time, but maybe they get too greedy and go for 175% power when they should go for 75%. Sure, proper blocking at the table off the bounce robs opponent of time, but the shot doesn't count unless it lands, right. it is just a strategic development goal if you are not consistent at that shot yet.

So many ways to play all-round or defensive. Goofing off and playing these styles can be fun... plus you develop timing, touch and confidence in control. That isn't too shabby results for goofing off.
 
says beginner (rating 700)
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As a coach, I would highlight two things to consider: Appropriate equipment and strategic development.

First - equipment, since forums are goo-goo ga ga crazy over equipment.

I would say to go for a blade that is not so fast, think ALL to ALL+ blades (wooden) with feel. You could go DEF of DEF+, but I would save that for after developing more baseline skill level. That is a huge range, likely hundreds of blades can fit that bill.

Stiga Allround variants are a usual suspect out of hundreds possible. It doesn't cost too much either.

As for rubber, there are a few thoughts. Some would say to go with a thin sponge control rubber, like say a 1.7 mm sponged soft of some control rubber. I think 2.0 is reasonable as long as it is control oriented. That leaves hundreds of combinations, maybe thousands. Don't overthink it. A control oriented 2.0 or even max rubber will allow you to learn and develop.

Cheapo rubbers like Focus III or Rapid soft are the middle ground... any SOFT, SOUND, or SPIN version of Euro brand rubbers is a good idea too.

So Coles has the Galaxy LQ-1 and LQ-2 DEF blades which are pretty expensive. They have the Air Touch01 blade which is ALL+ and cheaper, and everything else is OFF-. I guess I could try the Air Touch01.

I assume the cost of rubber is for both sides?

Any idea which of these rubbers would be best for me? These are all the ones Coles has that are under 2.0:

Air AssassinS: 1.9
Air DefenderS: 0.6, 1.5, 1.7, 1.9
Air Illumina Alpha (35deg): 1.5, 1.7, 1.9
Air Illumina Alpha (41deg): 1.7, 1.9
Air Scirocco: 1.8
Air TigerS: 1.9
Dawei 2008: 1.8
Gambler MechTek: 1.7
Gambler Burst: 1.7
Gambler Nines UltraTack: 1.7
Globe 999t Regular: 1.5

I'm still not sure if tacky or non-tacky would be better for me, or if I should try a different one on each side.
 
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As Mr, Echte said we can get "goo-goo ga ga crazy over equipment". I am, and you might be one day, but its too early for that. Tacky or not is not a big issue.

Get the Air Touch01 with the Dawei 2008.

Cheap and cheerful combo, won't hold you down.
 
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Sponge softness or firmness is a special consideration for what the player does, it will make it easier or harder to control a certain shot.

For spin shots where you get the ball into the topsheet, hold it, and shoot it out with the sponge... a supple topsheet and a softer sponge (more sponge the better) will make it easier for those... think loops and think chops and certain push shots.

Those who impact with more direct contact might be better off with firmer sponges and for beginners, maybe thinner sponge (but 2.0 or max still works if the overall combo is suitable) Think of those who drive, retrieve, hit, smash, receive serves... easier to do those with equipment oriented that way.

A player would need to consider what shots are done more frequently and are of more value or contribution to the level of the player now and later. If a player is not really sure of what that is... that is why many pundits go the way of middle of the road modern control oriented equipment. That stuff will do the basic stuff and reasonably allow the learning of most any shot. Won't do them super easy auto pilot, but well enough to learn. That is why pundit recommend that stuff, it isn't the only way, but it is proven.

You could always email Cole and give him your parameters… he knows his equipment he sells better than any of us for obvious reasons. There are dozens of suitable combos he could assemble that will get the job done for you no problem. There is no need to break out the high speed camera and measure the movement of a gnat's tail hairs over the equipment.

For rubbers, if you go the soft sponged control route for pushing and chopping with the grab, hold and shoot way, consider Defender, Alpha 35, or a custom glued 999 on a soft air sponge or whatever soft he has around. If you are more direct impact, go for his other firmer sponged options.
 
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You are looking at mid $40s shipped to USA if you get from Cole the Air01 blade with XP2008... that is assembled, with edge tape and a bat case... should still be $5 delivery... Oh, I see now $7, took Cole a decade+ to raise the price of his shipping.

You are looking at Mid $50s for the Air01 and 2 of the rubbers not named XP2008.

That isn't too shabby considering that my main rubber, MX-K sells for $10 more than that for one sheet.

Get one of the combos, but Larry Hodges books Steps to Success Table Tennis and TT Thinkers and you are still under 3 digits easily. Some of that money for water, club dues, and lessons.
 
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says beginner (rating 700)
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Thanks for the suggestions. So I take it the Dawei 2008 is a 'middle of the road' rubber? Looks like the Air Scirocco (it says it emulates the 2008 with higher quality control) and 999t are the only other cheap ones. It says the 999t does "flat pushes" - does that mean my pushes won't have much spin?
 
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I still contend, based on what delirious has described of his playing skills and style, any "upgrade" in equipment will make it harder for him to play and cause a lowering of his level for the several months it will take him learn to use the new equipment.

What he has already, cheapo though it may be, it is ideal for how he described his playing style. Perhaps he plays that way because of the equipment. But the equipment facilitates what he does. Any of the rackets recommended will make it much harder for him to push and block without really knowing what he is doing first. So, again, probably 3 months of struggle. :)
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. So I take it the Dawei 2008 is a 'middle of the road' rubber? Looks like the Air Scirocco (it says it emulates the 2008 with higher quality control) and 999t are the only other cheap ones. It says the 999t does "flat pushes" - does that mean my pushes won't have much spin?

Who said 999 was flat? All equipment is capable of hitting flat if the impact and grip pressure are right.

The rubbers I mentioned are control oriented and one could learn the fundamentals using any of them. I can push dead or heavy with any of the three easily, matter of impact and hand and whip.
 
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Who said 999 was flat? All equipment is capable of hitting flat if the impact and grip pressure are right.

The rubbers I mentioned are control oriented and one could learn the fundamentals using any of them. I can push dead or heavy with any of the three easily, matter of impact and hand and whip.

On Coles web site, it says about the Globe 999t Regular: "In 1.5 it makes a defensive rubber that serves and spins well with flat pushes and dead blocks." I forgot to ask Cole about that when I talked to him earlier today.

Cole suggested the Air Koto, which is a bit more expensive and heavier. He said it's faster than the Air Touch 01, and that would be good for chopping from off the table. He said the Air Touch 01 would work for me too.

He said the Air Scirocco is pretty much the same as the 2008, although a little lighter. He also said the 999t Regular is tackier than those but slower, so it might not be good for chopping off the table. But he seemed to think any of those, even different ones on each side, would be okay. So I'm just trying to decide now.
 
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