Choosing equipments based on my style

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Does Yinhe Jupiter II kind of "tacky"?

Maybe I'll buy jupiter (39 degree) for my forehand and euro 2.0mm (hopefully I can grt 2.0mm) for backhand.

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Yes Jupiter II is a tacky rubber like Hurricane 3. I usually buy it from AliExpress. Available in 38,39,40 degrees. Usually one thickness only.

A little faster than unboosted H3. Has a strong smell though.

I'm mainly a euro style looper who uses euro rubber. I occasionally play with Jupiter II 38 degree just to try something different once in a while. I like the softer 38 degree sponge because I'm not as used to brush looping.
 
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BTW Speed glue is illegal. You may meant booster which is also illegal but a lot of people use it. Then yes, this rubber would benefit from booster. But most of rubbers I've seen on allie were factory booste and boosting factory boosted rubber would a bit troublesome. You would have to scrub factory applied glue which i mentioned before. Here is some information about both boosting and yinhe factory boost glue https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/fo...ed-as-boosters&p=125751&viewfull=1#post125751

TL;DR
So if you are like me, a person who is about intermediate level who wants a Chinese tacky forehand rubber, then bare stock factory tuned Yinhe Jupiter 2 is more than enough. If you play with it and decide that's it's too slow then you can always unglue it and apply the booster.
Okay, yinhe Jupiter 2, regular glue, nothing weird added. Just that.

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Yes Jupiter II is a tacky rubber like Hurricane 3. I usually buy it from AliExpress. Available in 38,39,40 degrees. Usually one thickness only.

A little faster than unboosted H3. Has a strong smell though.

I'm mainly a euro style looper who uses euro rubber. I occasionally play with Jupiter II 38 degree just to try something different once in a while. I like the softer 38 degree sponge because I'm not as used to brush looping.
I read somewhere else about "european" being "loop with arm bent" and "chinese" being "loop with straight arm"

Can you describe / provide the source for that?

I mean I'm using chinese rubber but I may actually play with european motion without knowing (that, in return, not optimizing my rubber to the max)

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I read somewhere else about "european" being "loop with arm bent" and "chinese" being "loop with straight arm"

Can you describe / provide the source for that?

I mean I'm using chinese rubber but I may actually play with european motion without knowing (that, in return, not optimizing my rubber to the max)

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I guess what I mean to say is that I don't brush the ball as much when looping the ball compared to someone who uses tacky Chinese rubber.

I use rubber with a soft top sheet and medium sponge. I generate spin mechanically by hitting the ball hard (at an angle) deep into the rubber and sponge.
 
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I guess what I mean to say is that I don't brush the ball as much when looping the ball compared to someone who uses tacky Chinese rubber.

I use rubber with a soft top sheet and medium sponge. I generate spin mechanically by hitting the ball hard (at an angle) deep into the rubber and sponge.

Hey :cool: I just tried Donic Vario, which I think is similar to Mark 5 & Sriver, for a few minutes from my friend in my club today. I use Nittaku HP3T and Stiga Genesis 2 M which are both tacky and when I tried to "brush loop" the ball with the Vario, the ball would go straight into the net. I sort of had to open the angle more to let the force penetrate into the surface to prevent sliding to apply friction to create spin. I would have to try this type more to know if I like it but it was weird.
 
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I read somewhere else about "european" being "loop with arm bent" and "chinese" being "loop with straight arm"
That's a mile long discussion. In my personal experience, when you start playing with chinese tacky hard rubber, you might have some troubles with hitting the table. It took my a while to start getting brushing. I used to play forehand with my arm bent like some guys on youtube told me. Lately I started playing with some more experienced players and they told me try using my arm as if it was a whip. To get loose and not force anything just use my body rotation to initiate the movement along with the arm. (power from the ground?) For me it improved accuracy and consistency a lot. Who is right (the guys from youtube or guys who taught me) I have no idea. I can only say that te latter works for me better.
 
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That's a mile long discussion. In my personal experience, when you start playing with chinese tacky hard rubber, you might have some troubles with hitting the table. It took my a while to start getting brushing. I used to play forehand with my arm bent like some guys on youtube told me. Lately I started playing with some more experienced players and they told me try using my arm as if it was a whip. To get loose and not force anything just use my body rotation to initiate the movement along with the arm. (power from the ground?) For me it improved accuracy and consistency a lot. Who is right (the guys from youtube or guys who taught me) I have no idea. I can only say that te latter works for me better.

I didn't even know that a bent arm is considered as a style:eek::eek::eek:. I always thought that it is a active vs passive thing. Obviously, you can get more racket head speed by allowing your elbow to release(straight) before contracting(bent) so that your arm muscles are generating power. I don't quite understand why you would want to keep your arm bent or straight all the way during a stroke. Why not use the muscle if it is there?
 
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I'll try to answer the question, but also I'll try to stay on the original topic.

The bent arm "Timo Boll" style is intended for close to table play. The idea is that it let's you reset faster and get ready for the next ball sooner.

Open arm style is for people who play a step or so farther back and are going for extra power/spin.

Both styles require the person to whip their arm.


As far far as brush looping vs mechanical spin there is an active thread discussing the benefits (and tradeoffs) of using hriicane 3.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...read.php?t=22039&share_type=t&link_source=app
 
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The bent arm "Timo Boll" style is intended for close to table play. The idea is that it let's you reset faster and get ready for the next ball sooner.

Open arm style is for people who play a step or so farther back and are going for extra power/spin.

Thank you. But one more question please. Isn't it just what you call a "drive", which is close to the table, more about taking the ball early to borrow your opponent's power, and where your shots land, insead of power(because you can't. you don't have the time generate it yourself.)?

So what is the difference between a drive and a timo boll style bent arm loop?
 
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I tried. I really did.
 
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Thank you. But one more question please. Isn't it just what you call a "drive", which is close to the table, more about taking the ball early to borrow your opponent's power, and where your shots land, insead of power(because you can't. you don't have the time generate it yourself.)?

So what is the difference between a drive and a timo boll style bent arm loop?

I suppose these has been discussed in detail previously. So, I guess I'll just reply with the link.

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/showthread.php?10480-European-Loop-vs-Chinese-Loop
 
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That's a mile long discussion. In my personal experience, when you start playing with chinese tacky hard rubber, you might have some troubles with hitting the table. It took my a while to start getting brushing. I used to play forehand with my arm bent like some guys on youtube told me. Lately I started playing with some more experienced players and they told me try using my arm as if it was a whip. To get loose and not force anything just use my body rotation to initiate the movement along with the arm. (power from the ground?) For me it improved accuracy and consistency a lot. Who is right (the guys from youtube or guys who taught me) I have no idea. I can only say that te latter works for me better.
Ah yes, sure. Chinese uses a whole body to give momentum, power, and acceleration it needed to give the ball spin (as you can see with Ma Long, like he's "bringing" the ball forward) not just arm doing brushy brushy work.

I categorize them (in my head) as chinese being "more work" and europe is the "lazy" version where you could easily do that, but with less effort. (Ah sure, europe doesn't have that kick feeling)

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I'll try to answer the question, but also I'll try to stay on the original topic.

The bent arm "Timo Boll" style is intended for close to table play. The idea is that it let's you reset faster and get ready for the next ball sooner.

Open arm style is for people who play a step or so farther back and are going for extra power/spin.

Both styles require the person to whip their arm.


As far far as brush looping vs mechanical spin there is an active thread discussing the benefits (and tradeoffs) of using hriicane 3.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...read.php?t=22039&share_type=t&link_source=app
Hey, it does very2 make sense, bent arm for smaller move, quicker recover, close to table and fast paced game.

But even tho we're using chinese rubber, we still (somehow) need that close game, too right? I mean, from the serve, third ball attack, opening for long rally game, it all starts close in table. How do we (chinese rubber user) play in that regard? Can we just bent our arm like timo (european) does?

We cannot possibly bring our extravagant move in short paced game because (yes) we would easily lost the momentum, and if it's not a kill shot, you would be dead because you're (most likely) off balanced and off positioned

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Hey, after I see my racket carefully, why my DHS 4002's rubber Hurricane III instead of Hurricane II?
a49b3338744bd0db9527ff98c6a28c74.jpg
48625384fcc8c30fb467dbb78fdfb2b7.jpg


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LoL. At least we aren't talking about tenergy alternatives.
I wonder what he is frustrated about but he doesn't seem to be in the mood of explaining himself.

BTW. That was a great thread. TTD should have a section for the selected most substantial threads.
 
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If you think about your arm position while you are looping you will not be thinking about your feet. The problem is a lot of new players practice their topspin from a stationary position. Actually power comes from body rotation. If you are off balance because you moved inefficiently to the ball then your shot will usually be week and erratic. If you practice your topspin with drills that force you to move your arm will usually take care of itself without your having to think too much. You will learn to play with your upper body sufficiently relaxed.

New players need to learn to move. They need to learn instinctive timing.

Regarding this entire thread: Please see Rules 27 and 52 in the Rules thread. They will guide you.
 
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If you think about your arm position while you are looping you will not be thinking about your feet. The problem is a lot of new players practice their topspin from a stationary position. Actually power comes from body rotation. If you are off balance because you moved inefficiently to the ball then your shot will usually be week and erratic. If you practice your topspin with drills that force you to move your arm will usually take care of itself without your having to think too much. You will learn to play with your upper body sufficiently relaxed.

New players need to learn to move. They need to learn instinctive timing.

Regarding this entire thread: Please see Rules 27 and 52 in the Rules thread. They will guide you.

I think the confusion, at least for me, is difference between "Chinese vs European loop" or a better way to say it, the"full arm vs half arm loop" as different tactics. As far as I understand the difference is in the distance of play, the power and the intention behind the stroke.
You are right. Footwork is important for the all techniques, especially for the longer distance full arm stroke play. However, that is more about the practical or execution aspect which is a bit different to what we were talking about but thank you for giving more insight in the topic. :)

As a general statement, when closer to the table, less shoulder and more forearm snap help you recover faster. As you move further away from the table the strokes become bigger. Also, when you do a stroke with mostly forearm snap and not much shoulder, you are taking the ball closer to you. When you use a full arm stroke you are taking the ball further away from your body. But many of the guys credited with using a FULL ARM STROKE have so much training that they can use a stroke that is usually safer when you are at mid-distance, even when they are close to or over the table. So I think the fact that the top Chinese players often use a "full arm loop" while still close to the table has a decent amount to do with how much training they have and how fast their reset is. I also think it has to do with the CNT philosophy for playing the game. Hit as hard and as fast as you can any time you can. Try to end the point as soon as possible. Those gigantic over the table loops that Ma Long does so often off a push or off his opponent's half long serve, he is not doing them because he is expecting the ball to come back so he can set up his 5th shot. He is trying to end the point as soon as he can. Most of the training I get seems to be about spinning the ball as much as possible, staying in control, going at only about 60% and trying to be ready for the next ball. The CNT players usually aren't doing that. And, going all out, they still can recover and play the next ball with a top quality shot after they just went 110% on their previous shot. Full Arm Stroke and Half Arm Stroke are excellent ways of categorizing this.
 
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