Yasaka Mark V or Killerspin Jet 800 or Yasaka Rakza 7 soft?

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$120 budget???

Cole from colestt.com can make THREE complete bate delivered for that price with bat cases... and so many different possible combinations of middle of the road.

Even my minor expensive shop might reach that price for one complete bat with a little discount.

You could go to Paddle Palace and get almost 2 complete setups for that budget.

The 3 rubbers OP listed are a poor universe, everyone makes 1-3 middle of the road speed/spin inverted rubber.

If OP needs a human to ask and sell, OP could email Cole, would likely finish with $50 budget including bat case and match balls and maybe a towel (or at pic of a towel).... including shipping.... or close to that price.
 
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$120 budget???

Cole from colestt.com can make THREE complete bate delivered for that price with bat cases... and so many different possible combinations of middle of the road.

Even my minor expensive shop might reach that price for one complete bat with a little discount.

You could go to Paddle Palace and get almost 2 complete setups for that budget.

The 3 rubbers OP listed are a poor universe, everyone makes 1-3 middle of the road speed/spin inverted rubber.

If OP needs a human to ask and sell, OP could email Cole, would likely finish with $50 budget including bat case and match balls and maybe a towel (or at pic of a towel).... including shipping.... or close to that price.

He could also get a good bat or 3 from colestt at a fraction of the price, but OP seems very interested in Yasaka products, not gonna dissuade him, it's excellent quality after all.
 
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I use both rubbers extensively. Skyline rubbers are for long rallies and have high control and spin but needs lots of strength and technique to get speed.

I don't recommend it for your progression. The Sanwei Target is much faster but also less forgiving. You need to be much more precise with it then you'll get the rewards. For that reason I also don't recommend that rubber for your progression

In answer to your question about durability, I've got 2 year old Sanwei Target rubbers that still have lots of kick and spin despite the rubber looking badly marked. One of my friends commented that a Target is forever. ;)
 
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Thanks guys, after all the research, hard work and your contributions, here we are.

Rubbers selected are Rakza X (Red- 2.0mm), and Rakza 7 Soft (Black 2.0mm).

Help me understand which Blade will be better.

The options are:
1. Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon.
2. Yasaka Ma Lin Extra offensive
3. Yasaka Sweden Extra
4. Tibhar Stratus Power wood
 
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Thanks guys, after all the research, hard work and your contributions, here we are.

Rubbers selected are Rakza X (Red- 2.0mm), and Rakza 7 Soft (Black 2.0mm).

Help me understand which Blade will be better.

The options are:
1. Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon.
2. Yasaka Ma Lin Extra offensive
3. Yasaka Sweden Extra
4. Tibhar Stratus Power wood

Do not go faster than an OFF- rated blade.

Your list should be:

- Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon (OFF-)
- Yasaka Sweden Extra (ALL+)
- Tibhar Stratus Power wood (OFF-)
- Stiga Azelea Offensive (OFF-)
 
says MIA
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Thanks guys, after all the research, hard work and your contributions, here we are.

Rubbers selected are Rakza X (Red- 2.0mm), and Rakza 7 Soft (Black 2.0mm).

Help me understand which Blade will be better.

The options are:
1. Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon.
2. Yasaka Ma Lin Extra offensive
3. Yasaka Sweden Extra
4. Tibhar Stratus Power wood

3 or 4 are excellent choices. Stick to all-wood, 5 plies, OFF-, no carbon. 1 and 2 are too fast and not controllable enough yet for your level.

As for rubbers, I'd get Rakza 7 in 2.0mm on both sides if I were you, one black one red.
Rakza X is a professional rubber that is too fast and hard for an beginner to intermediate player such as yourself especially since you're coming from a pre-made bat.
 
says MIA
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Do not go faster than an OFF- rated blade.

Your list should be:

- Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon (OFF-)
- Yasaka Sweden Extra (ALL+)
- Tibhar Stratus Power wood (OFF-)
- Stiga Azelea Offensive (OFF-)

I like your list except for the Ma Lin Soft Carbon, OP would do better without the carbon to begin with especially coming from a pre-made.
 
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for all non-expert level players, why is it important not to use a carbon blade?
thank you!

&

which non-carbon blades are rated the best by Experienced players?
 
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for all non-expert level players, why is it important not to use a carbon blade?
thank you!

&

which non-carbon blades are rated the best by Experienced players?

The touch of a carbon blade is more rough, more vibrations, less control.

Non-carbon blades that are rated best by experts and non-experts alike are some of the ones we already brought up: Butterfly Korbel, Nittaku Acoustic, OSP Viruoso OFF-, Stiga Azalea OFf-, Yasaka Sweden Extra, Tibhar Stratus Power Wood... just pick one and you'll be fine!
 
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for all non-expert level players, why is it important not to use a carbon blade?
thank you!

One of the reasons is that an all wood blade will typically help you learn faster. They have more natural feeling and vibrations so that after you hit the ball you will get a sense of when you are hitting correctly with proper technique and timing and when you aren’t. So, your level will go up faster.

Carbon blades tend to have either dampened vibrations or unnatural vibrations, so they won’t be doing you any favors to help get better.
 
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that vibration of ball/bat contact plays a huge role, when we are playing at a fast pace?
I would think of it as an assistance in a car. It will make you go faster, but it will hinder the feedback and feeling you get, thus making you learn slower. In terms of table tennis with fiber blade you feel less (I assume that's why "wood feel" is wanted property of fiber blade) and in exchange you get more speed. I am staying with all wood blade as long as I can't extract all the power from it. You might want considering doing similar.
 
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Thanks for all the valuable inputs.

Just found out Donic Waldner Senso Carbon is really good in the feeling aspect and control.

So to pick up the winner, we have 3 in the finals - DW Senso Carbon , TS Power Wood and Yasaka Sweden Extra.

Handle type- i'd like to try Anatomic (used Flared for 3 yrs).

Rubbers - Red FH Rakza X and Black BH Rakza 7 Soft.

Thanks for your time and guidance.
 
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I second thomas.pong's suggestion to go with Rakza 7 instead of Rakza X. You may be underestimating the massive speed jump you're going to experience going from a premade to this.

If you are set on using the Rakza X then go with the Yasaka Sweden Extra as it'll help balance out the higher speed of the rubbers.
 
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I second thomas.pong's suggestion to go with Rakza 7 instead of Rakza X. You may be underestimating the massive speed jump you're going to experience going from a premade to this.

If you are set on using the Rakza X then go with the Yasaka Sweden Extra as it'll help balance out the higher speed of the rubbers.

Well in the end, you give a lot of repetitive advice to repetitive questions, and they go and get a carbon blade with fast rubbers which will set their progress back until they finally realize it and scale down to what you originally recommended... :) Yasaka Sweden Extra or Tibhar Stratus Power Wood with two Rakza 7 rubbers in 2.0mm. Wish I would have asked these questions when I was beginning.

Still think Rakza X would be too fast and not controllable enough for OP even on a YSE. The focus of a beginner is on big FH topspins and drives in warm-up style rallies, with an emphasis on underestimating the transition game... until they want to be able to do the topspins in a real game.
 
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Well in the end, you give a lot of repetitive advice to repetitive questions, and they go and get a carbon blade with fast rubbers which will set their progress back until they finally realize it and scale down to what you originally recommended... :) Yasaka Sweden Extra or Tibhar Stratus Power Wood with two Rakza 7 rubbers in 2.0mm. Wish I would have asked these questions when I was beginning.

Still think Rakza X would be too fast and not controllable enough for OP even on a YSE. The focus of a beginner is on big FH topspins and drives in warm-up style rallies, with an emphasis on underestimating the transition game... until they want to be able to do the topspins in a real game.

Totally true. Maybe the real solution is to buy two paddles. The fast one to satisfy your curiosity with and then also the slower one, which you start using one week later after you realize the it’s the better choice.
 
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