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    1. Top | #1
      EhJay is offline
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      Thumbs up Backhand Rubber for Flicks - Fastarc G1 vs other rubbers

      Hallo guys,

      I'm currently using Fastarc G1 (2.0 mm) on both sides of a TSP Swat.
      G1 is both easy to use for pushes and topspin play due to the low catapult in the low-force domain.
      However, it requires a relatively high amount of arm swing and minimum acceleration to get activated due to the harder topsheet.

      This characteristic renders it quite demanding to use for backhand flicks during matchplay, as a rather big movement with a lot of forearm use ist required (watch for example the technique of Morizono Masataka, who uses G1 on backhand and uses the backhand flick a lot in matchplay).

      I did some research to find a rubber, which is more forginving to use for flicks and still retains the low-catapult-characteristic that allows to keep pushes low. Yasaka Rakza 7 might be an option (softer topsheet and still medium hard sponge), but I haven't tried it yet.

      I would appreciate your thoughts about the topic and advice about possible rubber choices, which might valuable for a lot of intermediate players.
      Thank you in advance .

    2. Top | #2
      Barfly is offline
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      TTD Member Country: Croatia

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      If you really like G1 but find it too hard for backhand then C1 seems like an obvous choice.

      I have had G1 FH and C1 BH for a year and C1 was significantly easier to dig the ball in and cerate spin and arc, a bit slower, less precise and more bouncy but still very easy and predictable to use with great spin. Will probably go back to it on both sides once my EL-S and Hexer Grip wore out.

      Regarding Rakza7- not sure it is significantly easier and softer then G1; if you insist on older tensors with 47.5 degree sponges and soft topsheet than perhaps Tibhar Genius or original Andro Hexer might be better choices

    3. Top | #3
      mihalichtheone is offline
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      TTD Member Country: Russian Federation

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      I have used the G1 on both sides and that's indeed not an easy rubber to do the flick.
      Switched to Rasanter R42 2.0 (thickness really matters) and on my 5 ply wooden blade it's just amazing control and not that bouncy.

    4. Top | #4
      lasta is offline
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      Hmm, I find harder/firmer topsheets better for flicks. Feels more precise and crisp. Soft rubbers feel too mushy on over the table play.

    5. Top | #5
      Dream2K is offline
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      C-1 may work for you

    6. Top | #6
      yoass is online now
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      G-1 flicks just fine, I’d say. I miss some due too timing/contacts issues, and no other rubber would mitigate that. If I get the proper contact, it’s extremely reliable in flicks too.

    7. The Following User Likes yoass's Post:

      Takkyu_wa_inochi (12-08-2019)

    8. Top | #7
      mihalichtheone is offline
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      Hmm, I find harder/firmer topsheets better for flicks. Feels more precise and crisp. Soft rubbers feel too mushy on over the table play.
      I would say the exact opposite, but I guess it's a matter of preference

    9. Top | #8
      NextLevel is online now
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      Try Fastarc C-1 first.
      Cobra Kai TT Exponent - No mercy in this dojo, no matter your rating or the score. All spin, no power or footwork.

    10. The Following 2 Users Like NextLevel's Post:

      Takkyu_wa_inochi (12-08-2019),thekleifheit13 (12-07-2019)

    11. Top | #9
      laistrogian is offline
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      If you like G-1, but needs something with more catapult, your answer is the good ol' Tenergy 05

    12. Top | #10
      EhJay is offline
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      Has anyone tried Rakza 7 ? Ist it possible to Flick with more margin for error compared to G1 while being able to keep pushes short and low as easy as with G1?

    13. Top | #11
      yoass is online now
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      R7 has many qualities. Power, spin… yet for me it was harder to handle in the shorrt game and over the table openups. Its power curve is steeper than G-1’s.

    14. Top | #12
      Airoc is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by EhJay View Post
      Ist it possible to Flick with more margin for error compared to G1 while being able to keep pushes short and low as easy as with G1?
      You might find that any rubber that is softer or has a less stiff topsheet than G1 will be easier to handle in opening shots including flicks and open game, due to a plus in catapult.
      You might then also find that this plus of catapult makes the short game and push game more difficult.

      Every strength comes with a weakness, and you´ll have to make some compromise. Or start exercising flicks even more

    15. Top | #13
      thot is offline
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      My biggest gripe with Fastarc G-1: is non-linear.
      Depending on how much the sponge and topsheet is engaged, and I'm referring to small variations, it can yield different results. From pushing into the net to over the table is just a little bit. When driving I put a lot of balls into net, hitting a little bit harder the ball goes over the table. On loops the harder I hit the higher the throw is.
      Tested on multiple blades, same result.
      Switched to MX-S, better in pretty much all aspects, except weight.

      Considering the different opinions on forums is better to try than ask others. I'm sure there are newer rubbers better than G-1 or MX-S.

    16. Top | #14
      Dream2K is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by thot View Post
      My biggest gripe with Fastarc G-1: is non-linear.
      Depending on how much the sponge and topsheet is engaged, and I'm referring to small variations, it can yield different results. From pushing into the net to over the table is just a little bit. When driving I put a lot of balls into net, hitting a little bit harder the ball goes over the table. On loops the harder I hit the higher the throw is.
      Tested on multiple blades, same result.
      Switched to MX-S, better in pretty much all aspects, except weight.

      Considering the different opinions on forums is better to try than ask others. I'm sure there are newer rubbers better than G-1 or MX-S.
      I'm trying out C-1 and, at first glance, it behaves much more linear than G-1 that I tried briefly a while back. C-1 weighs slightly less than G-1.
      Last edited by Dream2K; 12-08-2019 at 08:50 PM.

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      Carl05 is offline
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      If you are Okey playing with a soft rubber (what I'm not), Fastarc S-1 will get the thing done. In case you want to preserve the medium-hard sponge capacities and more or less good speed, Vega Pro is always a sure bet.

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    19. Top | #16
      darkmoor1 is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by thot View Post
      My biggest gripe with Fastarc G-1: is non-linear.
      Depending on how much the sponge and topsheet is engaged, and I'm referring to small variations, it can yield different results. From pushing into the net to over the table is just a little bit. When driving I put a lot of balls into net, hitting a little bit harder the ball goes over the table. On loops the harder I hit the higher the throw is.
      Tested on multiple blades, same result.
      Switched to MX-S, better in pretty much all aspects, except weight.

      Considering the different opinions on forums is better to try than ask others. I'm sure there are newer rubbers better than G-1 or MX-S.
      Hi, may I ask you what blade do you use? Perhaps it plays a role in a non-linear feeling of G-1. I used G-1 on various all-wood blades, and I find it very much linear. More than MX-S, for instance.

    20. Top | #17
      thot is offline
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      I've used a pair of G-1 on:
      Nittaku Violoncello - 5 plies
      Galaxy W2 - outer carbon
      Stiga V1 - outer carbon
      Stiga Allround Evolution - 5 plies
      Dawei Power Carbon - Hurricane King 3 clone, inner carbon
      OSP Virtuoso - 5 plies
      OSP Musko - 7 plies
      Maybe were more, but this is what I recall for the moment.

      During an amateur tourney I switched from G-1 to MX-P and MX-S and I had more control with the latter against unknown players. For example serve returns were easier. The downside with MX-* is the weight.

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