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    1. Top | #1
      Pie is offline
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      Problem with gluing Rakza 7

      Hi all,

      I like Rakza 7 so much. I have already bought 3 sheets:

      - 1st sheet: gluing with Free Chack (i did it myself). No peeling off at all after few weeks. Then I removed it as I found it too fast, and then switched back to Mark V. After few months with Mark V, i re-glued Rakza 7. No peeling off at all until it became too old to play.

      - 2nd sheet: gluing with the same Free Chack (i did it myself as well), but the rubber started peeling off (around the blade) just few weeks later. I have then tried to re-glue the rubber multiple times, but the same problem still kept coming few days later.

      - 3rd sheet: I went to a local table tennis shop to get it glued yesterday, but today the rubber has started to peel off. They used another Japanese glue (not sure about the brand). A brand new sheet of Rozena was also glued by the same shop yesterday, but no problem at all!!!

      Have you guys encountered this problem?

      *Note: My blade is sealed with Joola sealer, equally on both sides. However, I have never had such problem with other rubbers (Sriver EL, Rozena, Mark V, Vega Europe). I am using Rozena on the other side, and the glue is super sticky on Rozena. I am really sick and tired of the Rakza 7 problem. I am considering using Tenergy 05 instead of Rakza 7. Maybe the sponge of Rakza 7 is the culprit! It seems like Butterfly sponge works really well with any water-based glue!
      Last edited by Pie; 01-16-2020 at 08:09 AM.

    2. Top | #2
      The_TT_Bat_Guy is offline
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      I suggest using a non-stick pan cleaning sponge or a very gentle grade sandpaper to rub on the surface of your blade.

      I also suggest using another layer or two and after gluing the rubber, use a roller or a cylinder-shaped item to go over the edges of the rubber.

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      thomas.pong (01-16-2020)

    4. Top | #3
      dominus7 is offline
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      I had the same issue with that rubber, if you stick with it, don't take it out, use it till the end. Sand the blade Before glue

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    5. Top | #4
      thomas.pong is offline
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      Rakza 7 has a very smooth non-porous sponge compared to most of the rubbers you mentioned, so the glue sticks to it but doesn't penetrate. It's also the reason why it can slip off from a varnished blade which makes its surface slick and non-porous.

      I've used Rakza rubbers quite a lot and never had any problems with it peeling off on any of my blades, except once... on the only blade I ever had sealed!

      The problem likely comes from your blade having been sealed a little too heavily. Like others have already mentioned, sand it very lightly to thin and smooth out the varnish and you'll be ok!

      In addition, using one layer of glue on the blade and 2 layers on the rubber will further guarantee it won't peel.
      Last edited by thomas.pong; 01-16-2020 at 11:55 AM.

    6. Top | #5
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      I use Rakza 7 all the time. I never have problems gluing it using Elmer's rubber cement. I do have a c-pen YEO (Yasaka Extra Offensive) blade that has a varnished finish. Ditto what thomas.pong said about roughing up the surface just a little with fine grit sand paper. I have Rakza 7 max soft on my c-pen YEO and have had no problems. The combo loops well. I have posted a video in the long thread about how many c-pen players there are.

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    8. Top | #6
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      Hi, I glued a lot of rakza 7 on my donic WSC. Every time I glue in the same way, with a 3 glue layers on rubber and one layer on blade. Today first time I had the same issue with this rubber. Additionaly when I look on the rubber I can see a lot of unevenness, bubbles.

    9. Top | #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by Paulo95 View Post
      Hi, I glued a lot of rakza 7 on my donic WSC. Every time I glue in the same way, with a 3 glue layers on rubber and one layer on blade. Today first time I had the same issue with this rubber. Additionaly when I look on the rubber I can see a lot of unevenness, bubbles.
      I had the same problem with same stick, they are as water and oil, can't be together.

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    10. Top | #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by Pie View Post
      Hi all,

      I like Rakza 7 so much. I have already bought 3 sheets:

      - 1st sheet: gluing with Free Chack (i did it myself). No peeling off at all after few weeks. Then I removed it as I found it too fast, and then switched back to Mark V. After few months with Mark V, i re-glued Rakza 7. No peeling off at all until it became too old to play.

      - 2nd sheet: gluing with the same Free Chack (i did it myself as well), but the rubber started peeling off (around the blade) just few weeks later. I have then tried to re-glue the rubber multiple times, but the same problem still kept coming few days later.

      - 3rd sheet: I went to a local table tennis shop to get it glued yesterday, but today the rubber has started to peel off. They used another Japanese glue (not sure about the brand). A brand new sheet of Rozena was also glued by the same shop yesterday, but no problem at all!!!

      Have you guys encountered this problem?

      *Note: My blade is sealed with Joola sealer, equally on both sides. However, I have never had such problem with other rubbers (Sriver EL, Rozena, Mark V, Vega Europe). I am using Rozena on the other side, and the glue is super sticky on Rozena. I am really sick and tired of the Rakza 7 problem. I am considering using Tenergy 05 instead of Rakza 7. Maybe the sponge of Rakza 7 is the culprit! It seems like Butterfly sponge works really well with any water-based glue!
      Use glue sheets instead of glues. Faster, cleaner and stronger bond.

      https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_...esive-film-duo

    11. Top | #9
      ZeroTT is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Arkady View Post
      Use glue sheets instead of glues. Faster, cleaner and stronger bond.

      https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_...esive-film-duo
      Is there a downside to glue sheets?
      If it's faster cleaner and stronger bond wouldn't more people use it?

    12. Top | #10
      Arkady is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by ZeroTT View Post
      Is there a downside to glue sheets?
      If it's faster cleaner and stronger bond wouldn't more people use it?
      Well, I had the same question but nobody gave me a clear, answer! And believe me I've asked professional coaches, forums even on line coaches like EMRatThich

      What I can tell you for sure, is that I've been using glue sheets for the last 2 years and I'm not going back to normal glue!
      Gluing is much faster,better and you want to re-glue the sheets to another blade, you don't have to take out old glue... You can even use the same glue sheet!


      I've concluded that the reasons that not many people use them, are:

      -Most of them don't even know the existence of glue sheets
      -They consider it expensive paying about 4€ per gluing.
      -They tell themselves exactly what you're asking "Since not many people use glues sheets, they must not be any good". So they don't even try them!!!!

    13. Top | #11
      tzifos is offline
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      In my opinion the glue sheets don't give the same "feeling" like 2-3 layers (+ 1-2 layers on blade) of water base glue and some say that the glue gives some more elasticity and speed also. Some OX pips players find very difficult to use water base glue for their pips and so they are using glue sheets but the feeling difference on the OX characteristics are minimal, if any.

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    15. Top | #12
      Arkady is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by tzifos View Post
      In my opinion the glue sheets don't give the same "feeling" like 2-3 layers (+ 1-2 layers on blade) of water base glue and some say that the glue gives some more elasticity and speed also. Some OX pips players find very difficult to use water base glue for their pips and so they are using glue sheets but the feeling difference on the OX characteristics are minimal, if any.
      It's true that glue sheets are more popular with OX users, since it's a real bitch to glue them with normal glue.

      And while I've heard all the arguments that you mention about glue (elasticity, spring effect etc) I do not agree at all. I've been using glue for many years and I find no difference in feeling, speed or spin with glue sheets.

      O course everyone is entitled to his opinion, but I can tell you from experience that most glue users have NEVER used glue sheets to compare.

    16. Top | #13
      lodro is online now
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      I have been using glue sheets exclusively for a long time. I buy the ones from Ali , they costed me only about us$ 50cents a pop. Once you got the knack how to apply them it is a quick and easy way to put your rubber on the blade.
      HOWEVER !!!! This is all fine and well if you are a player who only takes the rubbers off to throw them away .
      If you , like myself now, are in an "experimental phase" where you want to try different rubbers on different blades etc. BEWARE : on a lightly varnished blade you will always get the sticky sheet off but you might never get the sticky sheet (or part of it ) offen the sponge.. So I had to change to the famous Hungarian made glue which is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo easy to take off.

    17. Top | #14
      Arkady is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by lodro View Post
      I have been using glue sheets exclusively for a long time. I buy the ones from Ali , they costed me only about us$ 50cents a pop. Once you got the knack how to apply them it is a quick and easy way to put your rubber on the blade.
      HOWEVER !!!! This is all fine and well if you are a player who only takes the rubbers off to throw them away .
      If you , like myself now, are in an "experimental phase" where you want to try different rubbers on different blades etc. BEWARE : on a lightly varnished blade you will always get the sticky sheet off but you might never get the sticky sheet (or part of it ) offen the sponge.. So I had to change to the famous Hungarian made glue which is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo easy to take off.
      NEVER remove the glue sheet with the rubber TOGETHER It's then impossible to remove the sheet from the rubber, without destroying it or damaging the sponge.
      What I always do is remove the rubber but I leave the glue sheet on the blade, then VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY I remove the sheet from the blade.
      You have to be very careful when removing the sheet from unvarnished blades, because they can splinter.

      If you are referring to the Revolution glue, on the video it seems very good, but I've never actually used it.

    18. Top | #15
      lodro is online now
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      [QUOTE=Arkady;323867]NEVER remove the glue sheet with the rubber TOGETHER It's then impossible to remove the sheet from the rubber, without destroying it or damaging the sponge.
      What I always do is remove the rubber but I leave the glue sheet on the blade, then VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY I remove the sheet from the blade.
      You have to be very careful when removing the sheet from unvarnished blades, because they can splinter.

      Sure sure, one DOES TRY to always remove the rubber , leaving the glue-sheet on the blade. I am talking about the time when in-spite of trying, half the sheet remains on the blade and the other half on the sponge.
      And yes, The revo3 does exactly what they show in the videos.
      Have you tried a glue-sheet on something with very porous sponges ?

    19. Top | #16
      Arkady is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by lodro View Post
      Sure sure, one DOES TRY to always remove the rubber , leaving the glue-sheet on the blade. I am talking about the time when in-spite of trying, half the sheet remains on the blade and the other half on the sponge.
      And yes, The revo3 does exactly what they show in the videos.
      Have you tried a glue-sheet on something with very porous sponges ?
      I've removed numerous rubbers from glue sheets but none of them has ever been torn or the sponge separated from the topsheet.
      But the only rubbers that I've used with glue sheets are Vega Pro and Rakza 7, that have quite thick and dense sponge. I've never used very porous sponges.

      Glue sheets have two sides, one with very strong adhesiveness and the other with weaker one.
      If you put the rubbers on the weaker one, I bet that you will have no problem removing them without damaging them.
      But as the strong side will be on the blade, you'll have to be extra careful not to splinter the blade.

    20. Top | #17
      lodro is online now
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      interesting, what brand of glue sheets would you be using please ?
      The ones i got from XVT have both sides with the same sticky-factor.

      Yes agreed, the harder or denser the sponge the lesser is the risk of a stick-up.
      I got several rubbers here, cheap ones luckily (61second eagle , Kokutaku and globe 999) that have parts of the glue-sheet on them.
      Nothing one can do with them anymore.
      Revolution 3 is it for me now. Lots of mucking around applying all the layers of glue but at least
      the rubbers come off clean and can be re used.

    21. Top | #18
      Lula is offline
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      Wait longer to dry. Use two layers on rubber. One thicker layer on blade. Maybe use sandpaper on the blade. Edge tape.

    22. Top | #19
      Arkady is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by lodro View Post
      interesting, what brand of glue sheets would you be using please ?
      The ones i got from XVT have both sides with the same sticky-factor.
      I'm using Tibhar duo.
      See the description about the different adhesiveness of each side.

      https://www.tibhar.com/en/product/selbstklebefolie-duo/

      They are a bit expensive, but as I change my rubbers once or twice a year, I think the cost is almost nothing.


      Quote Originally Posted by lodro View Post
      Revolution 3 is it for me now. Lots of mucking around applying all the layers of glue but at least the rubbers come off clean and can be re used.
      There several glues that are easily removed, namely Nittaku Finezip or Tear Mender (I bet you haven't heard about this one..)

      The main reason that I'm using glue sheets, is not only that they are very easily removed, leaving a clean sponge.It's the fact that I'm avoiding the spreading process that gives me the shits...

      I'm not very good at spreading the glue evenly, so when I' putting the rubbers with glue, I see on the rubber surface "lines" that annoy me.
      When I'm using glue sheets, the surface of the rubber is perfectly even and "flat", no lines, no nothing.

    23. Top | #20
      lodro is online now
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      OK, i can see that the Thibar glue sheet is something completely different. It must have a center-film and then glue on either side . The XVT sheets are simply a single layer of glue.

      As for the gluing: The good thing with Revolution3 is that it is self-leveling and leaves a perfectly smooth , streak- and line free layer of glue.

      Also, I am old and retired and got plenty of time ...............and yes , I admit it :" I love the smell "

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