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  1. hipnotic is offline
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    #1

    FS: SDC Blades

    I'm selling some of my handmade blades, some of these were tested others are brand new. Condition is like new unless stated otherwise. Feel free to PM me for more info.

    #161 - Composite:3+2 - ALL+

    Composition: Fineline / Glassfiber / Kiri / Glassfiber / Fineline
    Weight: 86.1g
    Thickness: 6.2mm
    Handle: FL (102x25)
    Head size: 157x150mm
    Freq.: 1162Hz
    Balance: 3.3cm (Med)
    Condition: Brand new, untested.

    Price: [s]55€[/s] 48€ including shipping



    More Pics:
    https://i.ibb.co/zh191tQ/161-2.jpg
    https://i.ibb.co/TM67cvM/161-3.jpg

    #166 - Composite:5+2 - ALL+ / OFF-

    Composition: Koto / Diolen / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / Diolen / Koto
    Weight: 84.6g
    Thickness: 5.85mm
    Handle: FL (102x25)
    Head size: 157x150mm
    Freq.: 1270Hz
    Balance: 3.0cm (Med)
    Condition: Brand new, untested.

    Price: [s]75€[/s] 67€ including shipping



    More Pics:
    https://i.ibb.co/B65s97M/166-2.jpg
    https://i.ibb.co/2t3y8Ph/166-3.jpg
    https://i.ibb.co/9tqKM05/166-4.jpg


    #180 - Composite:5+2 - OFF

    Composition: Koto / ALC / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / ALC / Koto
    Weight: 89.1g
    Thickness: 5.75mm
    Head Size: 157x150mm
    Handle: ST (101x28x23mm)
    Freq.: 1400 Hz
    Balance: 2.6cm (Low)
    Condition: Brand new.

    Price: [s]95€ plus shipping[/s] 95€ including shipping



    More pics:
    https://i.ibb.co/k9BFtCV/180-2.jpg
    https://i.ibb.co/KrvDjkp/180-4.jpg

    #214 - All wood: 5 ply - OFF-

    Composition: Limba / Yellow Pine / Ayous / Yellow Pine / Limba
    Weight: 88.4g
    Thickness: 5.65mm
    Handle: ST (102x28x23)
    Head size: 160x149mm - JO Shape
    Freq.: 1270Hz
    Balance: 2.8cm (Low)
    Condition: New

    Price: 65€ including shipping



    More Pics:
    https://i.ibb.co/xzKFJqT/214-1.jpg
    https://i.ibb.co/m62vfM5/214-2.jpg
    https://i.ibb.co/JRmLzC4/214-3.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    Last edited by hipnotic; 05-12-2021 at 08:42 PM.
    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

  2. hipnotic is offline
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    #2
    Blade 1 sold!

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    bobpuls

    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

  3. UpSideDownCarl is offline
    says I like to hit Heavy Topspin
     
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    #3
    What are the head sizes? Are they all the same or different?
    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
    Spin is Everything

  4. hipnotic is offline
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl
    What are the head sizes? Are they all the same or different?
    Standard head size for all of them. I will add that to the description.
    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

  5. hipnotic is offline
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    #5
    7.


    My first ALC blade.


    Composition: Maple/ALC/Beech/Balsa/Beech/ALC/Maple - 84.4g - 6.0mm - 1470 Hz
    Head size: 156x149 mm
    Speed: Off > Light, hard and fast
    Price: SOLD

    Attachment 20795
    Last edited by hipnotic; 02-17-2020 at 01:48 PM.

  6. UpSideDownCarl is offline
    says I like to hit Heavy Topspin
     
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by hipnotic
    7.


    My first ALC blade.


    Composition: Maple/ALC/Beech/Balsa/Beech/ALC/Maple - 84.4g - 6.0mm - 1470 Hz
    Head size: 156x149 mm
    Speed: Off > Light, hard and fast
    Price: 30€ plus shipping

    Attachment 20795
    How was the process of making the blue and black colored parts of the handle? Easy? Tricky? Is it just blue and black colored stain?

    The Following User Likes UpSideDownCarl's Post:

    thomas.pong

    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
    Spin is Everything

  7. hipnotic is offline
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    #7
    It's a tricky process. Blue parts are stained, black part is a different material. I have to glue the parts to make the blanks, shape them, get them on the blade to do the fine adjustments, remove them, stain and seal and finally glue them on the blade.

    Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl
    How was the process of making the blue and black colored parts of the handle? Easy? Tricky? Is it just blue and black colored stain?

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    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

  8. UpSideDownCarl is offline
    says I like to hit Heavy Topspin
     
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by hipnotic
    It's a tricky process. Blue parts are stained, black part is a different material. I have to glue the parts to make the blanks, shape them, get them on the blade to do the fine adjustments, remove them, stain and seal and finally glue them on the blade.
    You seal the handle? Doesn't that make it slippery?

    I had a friend who used to seal the handles of his rackets. I really did not like the way that felt.
    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
    Spin is Everything

  9. hipnotic is offline
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    #9
    I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl
    You seal the handle? Doesn't that make it slippery?

    I had a friend who used to seal the handles of his rackets. I really did not like the way that felt.

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  10. UpSideDownCarl is offline
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by hipnotic
    I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.
    Great explanation. Thank you.

    The Following 2 Users Like UpSideDownCarl's Post:

    hipnotic and thomas.pong

    Setup 1: Blade by Nate: Vortex Spin Machine, FH Evolution MX-K, BH Evolution FX-P
    Setup 2: OSP Virtuoso Plus, FH Rasanter R 48, BH Rasanter R 48
    Spin is Everything

  11. GinjaNinja is offline
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by hipnotic
    I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.
    Although the exact quantity of ingredients in Tru-oil are a 'guarded secret' it is thought to be a blend of PU varnish, Tung oil and mineral spirits, so not really a straight oil based finish such as Tung, Teak or BLO. For me, I've never found a well thinned and light coat of PU varnish to cause a handle to be slippery in any way. Perhaps it depends on how much you add, personally I don't like the water based varnishes. I can see Tru-oil working well but it's not cheap!
    Great blades by the way!

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    Last edited by GinjaNinja; 02-15-2020 at 08:01 AM.

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    #12
    Yes, you are right GinjaNinja. And I should have made myself clearer, it's not the product that makes it slippery, it's how you apply it. I like the water based stuff because I can apply it thinly and quickly, also it's safer to use and has no smell. I use Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer if you would like to give it a try.

    Quote Originally Posted by GinjaNinja
    Although the exact quantity of ingredients in Tru-oil are a 'guarded secret' it is thought to be a blend of PU varnish, Tung oil and mineral spirits, so not really a straight oil based finish such as Tung, Teak or BLO. For me, I've never found a well thinned and light coat of PU varnish to cause a handle to be slippery in any way. Perhaps it depends on how much you add, personally I don't like the water based varnishes. I can see Tru-oil working well but it's not cheap!
    Great blades by the way!

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  13. GinjaNinja is offline
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by hipnotic
    Yes, you are right GinjaNinja. And I should have made myself clearer, it's not the product that makes it slippery, it's how you apply it. I like the water based stuff because I can apply it thinly and quickly, also it's safer to use and has no smell. I use Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer if you would like to give it a try.
    Thanks Hipnotic, I'm not really making blades at the moment as I've been too busy making guitars. This has led me to use shellac as my my main varnish, great stuff, much softer than PU varnish and gives a great finish when used to French polish. Also it's a great barrier against moisture. Not sure if it would for a TT blade though, I wonder if anyone has tried it?

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    #14
    That's great GingaNinja. I have some shellac on the shelf for a long time but I never tried it. I on't think it would work in a TT blade but it would look great in a bat case.

    Quote Originally Posted by GinjaNinja
    Thanks Hipnotic, I'm not really making blades at the moment as I've been too busy making guitars. This has led me to use shellac as my my main varnish, great stuff, much softer than PU varnish and gives a great finish when used to French polish. Also it's a great barrier against moisture. Not sure if it would for a TT blade though, I wonder if anyone has tried it?

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    #15
    Blades 2 and 4 have been sold.
    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

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    #16
    Blades 3, 5, 6 and 7 sold!

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    #17
    Updated the first post with some more blades.
    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

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    #18
    Blades 132 and 162 sold.
    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

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    #19
    Updated the first post with #161.
    www.sdcttblades.com / Insta: @sdc_tt_blades / Face: @SDCblades

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    #20

    What's fineline?

    No more political prisoners in Catalonia.

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