FS: SDC Blades

I'm selling some of my handmade blades, some of these were tested others are brand new. Condition is like new unless stated otherwise. Feel free to PM me for more info.

#124 - All wood: 7 ply - OFF-

Composition: Etimoe / Limba / Black Walnut / Kiri / Black Walnut / Limba / Etimoe
Weight: 86.1g
Thickness: 6.2mm
Handle: FL (102x25)
Head size: 157x150mm
Freq.: 1250Hz
Balance: 3.2cm (Medium)
Condition: It was used briefly for testing but it's in very good condition.

Price: [s]50€[/s] 45€ including shipping



More pics:
https://i.ibb.co/kX73x2W/124-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/prQPyw7/124-3.jpg


#161 - Composite:3+2 - ALL+

Composition: Fineline / Glassfiber / Kiri / Glassfiber / Fineline
Weight: 86.1g
Thickness: 6.2mm
Handle: FL (102x25)
Head size: 157x150mm
Freq.: 1162Hz
Balance: 3.3cm (Med)
Condition: Brand new, untested.

Price: [s]55€[/s] 48€ including shipping



More Pics:
https://i.ibb.co/zh191tQ/161-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/TM67cvM/161-3.jpg

#166 - Composite:5+2 - ALL+ / OFF-

Composition: Koto / Diolen / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / Diolen / Koto
Weight: 84.6g
Thickness: 5.85mm
Handle: FL (102x25)
Head size: 157x150mm
Freq.: 1270Hz
Balance: 3.0cm (Med)
Condition: Brand new, untested.

Price: [s]75€[/s] 67€ including shipping



More Pics:
https://i.ibb.co/B65s97M/166-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/2t3y8Ph/166-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9tqKM05/166-4.jpg

#167 - Composite:5+2 - OFF

Composition: Koto / Kevlar / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / Kevlar / Koto
Weight: 906g
Thickness: 5.8mm
Handle: ST round (101x28x23)
Head size: 157x150mm
Freq.: 1420Hz
Balance: 2.8cm (Low)
Condition: Briefly tested but in very good condition.

Price: 70€ including shipping



More pics:
https://i.ibb.co/HXMg3J6/167-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/PDkMqN3/167-3.jpg

#180 - Composite:5+2 - OFF

Composition: Koto / ALC / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / ALC / Koto
Weight: 89.1g
Thickness: 5.75mm
Head Size: 157x150mm
Handle: ST (101x28x23mm)
Freq.: 1400 Hz
Balance: 2.6cm (Low)
Condition: Brand new.

Price: [s]95€ plus shipping[/s] 95€ including shipping



More pics:
https://i.ibb.co/k9BFtCV/180-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/KrvDjkp/180-4.jpg

#183 - All wood:3 ply - OFF-

Composition: Black Walnut / Kiri / Black Walnut
Weight: 90.1g
Thickness: 6.6mm
Head Size: 157x150mm
Handle: FL wide (101x24mm)
Freq.: 1300 Hz
Balance: 3.0cm (Med)
Condition: Brand new.

Price: 45€ including shipping



More pics:
https://i.ibb.co/mRwT2PR/183-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/R2B1qsb/183-3.jpg

#130 - All wood: 7 ply - OFF- / OFF

Composition: ola / Tola / Ayous / Ayous / Ayous / Tola / Tola
Weight: 92.1g
Thickness: 6.2mm
Handle: FL (102x25) - Big
Head size: 157x150mm
Freq.: 1290Hz
Balance: 2.3cm (Low)
Condition: New
Notes: Sealed handle

Price: 65€ including shipping



More Pics:
https://i.ibb.co/mzTRVWy/130-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gPkNYLH/130-3.jpg

Blade 1 sold!

What are the head sizes? Are they all the same or different?

Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl

What are the head sizes? Are they all the same or different?

Standard head size for all of them. I will add that to the description.

7.


My first ALC blade.


Composition: Maple/ALC/Beech/Balsa/Beech/ALC/Maple - 84.4g - 6.0mm - 1470 Hz
Head size: 156x149 mm
Speed: Off > Light, hard and fast
Price: SOLD

Originally Posted by hipnotic

7.


My first ALC blade.


Composition: Maple/ALC/Beech/Balsa/Beech/ALC/Maple - 84.4g - 6.0mm - 1470 Hz
Head size: 156x149 mm
Speed: Off > Light, hard and fast
Price: 30€ plus shipping

How was the process of making the blue and black colored parts of the handle? Easy? Tricky? Is it just blue and black colored stain?

It's a tricky process. Blue parts are stained, black part is a different material. I have to glue the parts to make the blanks, shape them, get them on the blade to do the fine adjustments, remove them, stain and seal and finally glue them on the blade.

Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl

How was the process of making the blue and black colored parts of the handle? Easy? Tricky? Is it just blue and black colored stain?

Originally Posted by hipnotic

It's a tricky process. Blue parts are stained, black part is a different material. I have to glue the parts to make the blanks, shape them, get them on the blade to do the fine adjustments, remove them, stain and seal and finally glue them on the blade.

You seal the handle? Doesn't that make it slippery?

I had a friend who used to seal the handles of his rackets. I really did not like the way that felt.

I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl

You seal the handle? Doesn't that make it slippery?

I had a friend who used to seal the handles of his rackets. I really did not like the way that felt.

Originally Posted by hipnotic

I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

Great explanation. Thank you.

Originally Posted by hipnotic

I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

Although the exact quantity of ingredients in Tru-oil are a 'guarded secret' it is thought to be a blend of PU varnish, Tung oil and mineral spirits, so not really a straight oil based finish such as Tung, Teak or BLO. For me, I've never found a well thinned and light coat of PU varnish to cause a handle to be slippery in any way. Perhaps it depends on how much you add, personally I don't like the water based varnishes. I can see Tru-oil working well but it's not cheap!
Great blades by the way!

Yes, you are right GinjaNinja. And I should have made myself clearer, it's not the product that makes it slippery, it's how you apply it. I like the water based stuff because I can apply it thinly and quickly, also it's safer to use and has no smell. I use Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer if you would like to give it a try.

Originally Posted by GinjaNinja

Although the exact quantity of ingredients in Tru-oil are a 'guarded secret' it is thought to be a blend of PU varnish, Tung oil and mineral spirits, so not really a straight oil based finish such as Tung, Teak or BLO. For me, I've never found a well thinned and light coat of PU varnish to cause a handle to be slippery in any way. Perhaps it depends on how much you add, personally I don't like the water based varnishes. I can see Tru-oil working well but it's not cheap!
Great blades by the way!

That's great GingaNinja. I have some shellac on the shelf for a long time but I never tried it. I on't think it would work in a TT blade but it would look great in a bat case.

Originally Posted by GinjaNinja

Thanks Hipnotic, I'm not really making blades at the moment as I've been too busy making guitars. This has led me to use shellac as my my main varnish, great stuff, much softer than PU varnish and gives a great finish when used to French polish. Also it's a great barrier against moisture. Not sure if it would for a TT blade though, I wonder if anyone has tried it?

Blades 2 and 4 have been sold.

Updated the first post with some more blades.

Blades 132 and 162 sold.

Updated the first post with #161.

What's fineline?