Loki Rubbers

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Hi,

Can someone gives me more informations about Loki Rxton III.
I hesitate to take them for my son. He plays an offensive game.
Just to know if the sponge is not too hard? What about the tackyness of the topsheet?
(He plays a Gewo Quadri Aruna carbon blade All+).
Thx

(I think i'll take them too for me, maybe in replacement of my Palio Hadou 40...)
 
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Hi,

Can someone gives me more informations about Loki Rxton III.
I hesitate to take them for my son. He plays an offensive game.
Just to know if the sponge is not too hard? What about the tackyness of the topsheet?
(He plays a Gewo Quadri Aruna carbon blade All+).
Thx

(I think i'll take them too for me, maybe in replacement of my Palio Hadou 40...)

It's like a softer DHS Hurricane 3 NEO. More controllable, but still great spin and half tacky. What rubbers does he have now, and how does these work for him?

Palio Hadou is kind of a slow untacky allround rubber, so if you are into more spin oriented game, and developing your technique and like to work harder with your feet, this is a great rubber for you. It's better than Palio Hadou in all aspects but control.

 
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My son used to play with a loki racket (all in one), Loki 9 stars. This one has a Rxton 5 on FH with blue sponge, and a Rxton 3 on BH with black sponge. (Note that these Loki 5 and 3 rubbers are not commercially available with their blue and black sponges as sold on the complete blade of the Loki 9 stars blade.).
Then i recently changed his blade for a Gewo Quadri Aruna carbon ALL+ one. Very good blade. I put spare rubbers i had (in waiting for new like Loki 3 maybe) Kokutaku 868 Blutenkirsche with orange Sponge. It turned out that despite it being low end rubbers, he really liked them. He would just like similar plates, but faster. The same second Kokutaku spares that I have turn out to be different, probably because of a batch problem that is not regular. So they are heavier and different in the game.
So I want to take the Loki 3 from him, just hoping that they are not too hard because as much as he has an offensive game when he plays away from the table, the Kokutaku are quite flexible and allow not to have too strong rebound in the short game, and they offer excellent control. So if the Loki 3 are not too hard and offer good control, with however a reserve for the attack, I think of going on these Loki 3. Because the Loki range seems really quality in view of the first rubbers he played and which have been really good at all levels (longevity, quality...).

As for me, it's the same thing, I have an offensive game, but in the short game I don't really like too hard plates because often the rebound is more difficult to manage. I've had Yinhe Jupiter 2 & 3 which are excellent rubbers, but they remain hard throughout the range and have high rejection. The Palios have lower rejection and are more flexible and allow more control in the short game at the expense of less power in the long game. But I compensate physically ^^.
The palio have a blue sponge that I appreciate. So I'm also looking at these Loki 3, because overall I've always liked the orange sponges too. The only thing I would expect from Loki and not to have too high a hardness, with rather a thick and relatively soft sponge.
Also looking for newer rubbbers like the Loki 3 because yes, I have a very spin oriented game with long play.

Sorry for this long post and thx for yours responses!

 
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My son used to play with a loki racket (all in one), Loki 9 stars. This one has a Rxton 5 on FH with blue sponge, and a Rxton 3 on BH with black sponge. (Note that these Loki 5 and 3 rubbers are not commercially available with their blue and black sponges as sold on the complete blade of the Loki 9 stars blade.).
Then i recently changed his blade for a Gewo Quadri Aruna carbon ALL+ one. Very good blade. I put spare rubbers i had (in waiting for new like Loki 3 maybe) Kokutaku 868 Blutenkirsche with orange Sponge. It turned out that despite it being low end rubbers, he really liked them. He would just like similar plates, but faster. The same second Kokutaku spares that I have turn out to be different, probably because of a batch problem that is not regular. So they are heavier and different in the game.
So I want to take the Loki 3 from him, just hoping that they are not too hard because as much as he has an offensive game when he plays away from the table, the Kokutaku are quite flexible and allow not to have too strong rebound in the short game, and they offer excellent control. So if the Loki 3 are not too hard and offer good control, with however a reserve for the attack, I think of going on these Loki 3. Because the Loki range seems really quality in view of the first rubbers he played and which have been really good at all levels (longevity, quality...).

As for me, it's the same thing, I have an offensive game, but in the short game I don't really like too hard plates because often the rebound is more difficult to manage. I've had Yinhe Jupiter 2 & 3 which are excellent rubbers, but they remain hard throughout the range and have high rejection. The Palios have lower rejection and are more flexible and allow more control in the short game at the expense of less power in the long game. But I compensate physically ^^.
The palio have a blue sponge that I appreciate. So I'm also looking at these Loki 3, because overall I've always liked the orange sponges too. The only thing I would expect from Loki and not to have too high a hardness, with rather a thick and relatively soft sponge.
Also looking for newer rubbbers like the Loki 3 because yes, I have a very spin oriented game with long play.

Sorry for this long post and thx for yours responses!

Ok. Yes they usually put special sponges and often different top sheets (even if the number is correct) on these factory made bats.
The Kokutaku - 868 Blütenkirsche is probably the best allround rubber I've tried according to the money spent, so they are quite ok I think.
The LOKI - Rxton 3 could be very good for you both. Check out the Yinhe - Big Dipper as well, which is a really good do-it-all Chinese rubber with a hybrid feeling. It will be a little more bouncy. Sanwei - Target 90 is also a really good controllable rubber that can be used in the same way as the two I mentioned before.
If you go with any of these I think it will be fine for you both. :)

 
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Ok. Yes they usually put special sponges and often different top sheets (even if the number is correct) on these factory made bats.
The Kokutaku - 868 Blütenkirsche is probably the best allround rubber I've tried according to the money spent, so they are quite ok I think.
The LOKI - Rxton 3 could be very good for you both. Check out the Yinhe - Big Dipper as well, which is a really good do-it-all Chinese rubber with a hybrid feeling. It will be a little more bouncy. Sanwei - Target 90 is also a really good controllable rubber that can be used in the same way as the two I mentioned before.
If you go with any of these I think it will be fine for you both. :)

Ok. thanks!
Let's try Loki Rxton III. I'll return my feeling here with my son. i ordered a pair ones.
Maybe Big Dipper are good ones, but i found their Jupiter product a little bit too Hard, even in 37°. There's few difference in hardness between Jupiter 2 39 and Jupiter III 37 for example for me. I have them both. So i fear same for Big Dipper..
I'm not looking for rubbers with too much rebound.
(Kokutaku has very good Low price rubbers, but product always change, or are no more available, or even the quality of certain products is not always consistent. I really loved Kokutaku Tuple 007 Taiwan in 40° (pink packaging), but they are no more available).

Thanks again for your response.
Hope Rxton 3 will be good, but experience with Rxton 5 were very good, so...

 
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Ok. It felt a bit more responsive than Big Dipper, but sure. Somewhere in that area :)

Michael both rubbers are in the same category in terms of hardness and tackiness. But they belong in quite different price categories. In these cases you need to check the advantages and your own gameplay if the usual advantages the higher pricetags should bring you, are enough to pay this price.

By saying that, Arthur Chinas makes nearly everything a bit better but behaves way better with fh topspins. While hard fh topspins go usually really flat by with Big Dipper, the Arthur China gives you more spin and a better more comfortable arc, which is way harder for your opponent to deal with.
Btw you even saw the training video from me which was with the Arthur China^^

 
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says Table tennis clown
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Michael both rubbers are in the same category in terms of hardness and tackiness. But they belong in quite different price categories. In these cases you need to check the advantages and your own gameplay if the usual advantages the higher pricetags should bring you, are enough to pay this price.

By saying that, Arthur Chinas makes nearly everything a bit better but behaves way better with fh topspins. While hard fh topspins go usually really flat by with Big Dipper, the Arthur China gives you more spin and a better more comfortable arc, which is way harder for your opponent to deal with.
Btw you even saw the training video from me which was with the Arthur China^^

I do not quite understand this :
"the Arthur China gives you more spin and a better more comfortable arc, which is way harder for your opponent to deal with. """"

If in comparison to other rubbers mentioned, the arc is higher and more comfortable for the "attacker" (so to speak) how is it then more difficult for the opponent do deal with ???

 
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I do not quite understand this :
"the Arthur China gives you more spin and a better more comfortable arc, which is way harder for your opponent to deal with. """"

If in comparison to other rubbers mentioned, the arc is higher and more comfortable for the "attacker" (so to speak) how is it then more difficult for the opponent do deal with ???

I will try to describe the situation at the table.
Imagine being midrallye and the opponent starts looping and you countertopspinning. Usually these balls, especially in the beginning and closer to the table are quite flat, because speed (and placement) is what usually will get you the point.

Though the moment your topspin comes back to the opponent 2 problems are in need to be dealt with.
First the ball is usually flat and therefore probably below the net by the time your opponent wants to hit it. Second he just opened up and now needs time to reposition and get further back. To achieve this many people start looping higher balls. These balls (executed well) are loaded with spin and get a huge kick when coming down to the table. Returning those is quite difficult and imo way harder than normal topspins. With topspins the amount of spin and the reaction on the table is easier to predict. This gets way harder if someone starts counterlooping with a higher arc.

One example: https://youtu.be/yDT_n1PCYbU
at 0:36 you have a behind the table looping rallye in which Hugo loops higher than usual and jang cant predict the kick of the ball. Probably the positioning of the ball was a big keyfactor here but i hope you get what i mean^^

 
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